Anybody reload their own ammo?

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1970Duster

1970Duster

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As the title states, curious what equipment do you use? How difficult is it? About how many rounds an hour you able to produce?
I ask because I'm looking to start reloading my own (cheaper in the long run) and from the research I've found (depending on the rounds you use and how often you shoot) I'll start to break even and start saving after 3-4 (3000-4000 rounds) cases of ammo. Thanks in advance for any help on this.
 
Like you said it really depends on what you shoot , I'm setting up to start rolling my own 338 Lapua because they cost 5-10 bucks a round for decent ammo the cheap stuff from Sellier and Belloit was 373.12 for 100 including tax and shipping while reloading costs about 1.50 per plus brass which I am currently stockpiling , now if your talking 22lr well you can't save enough to make it worthwhile , also be aware that a lot of smaller case ammo is cased in a steel alloy that just looks like brass and may not be very good for reloading . When it comes to speed well accuracy is more important in my book and I would recommend spending some hands on time with someone you know is a capable reloader I see and hear a lot of idiots talk about overloading and light loading and I make a mental note to stay as far away as possible from them at the range .
 
cannucky said:
Like you said it really depends on what you shoot , I'm setting up to start rolling my own 338 Lapua because they cost 5-10 bucks a round for decent ammo the cheap stuff from Sellier and Belloit was 373.12 for 100 including tax and shipping while reloading costs about 1.50 per plus brass which I am currently stockpiling , now if your talking 22lr well you can't save enough to make it worthwhile , also be aware that a lot of smaller case ammo is cased in a steel alloy that just looks like brass and may not be very good for reloading . When it comes to speed well accuracy is more important in my book and I would recommend spending some hands on time with someone you know is a capable reloader I see and hear a lot of idiots talk about overloading and light loading and I make a mental note to stay as far away as possible from them at the range .
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I hear you about staying away from those guys lol! Mainly the ammo I'm looking to reload is 5.56, 7.62, 9mm (this one isn't mine but my friend said he'd buy the kit need and buy the supplies if I do it for him), .45, .50, and maybe in the future (when money allows) buy the kit to do the 50 bmg.
 
I've been doing it for years. My initial interest was more to experiment around with loads to maximize accuracy, and just to be able to do my own. You can start out with an inexpensive single stage press and see how you like doing it. If you put a value on your time, it might not be financially worthwhile with a single stage but you can learn the ins and outs. If you really want to save money and crank out a lot of ammo then a progressive press is the way to go - but quite a bit more $$. I still use my single stage RCBS Rock Chucker exclusively..
 
I used to reload my own, mostly pistol, .38/357, .44, 9mm, and .45 ACP. 9mm in my opinion is a real PITA to load. Of course just recovering the brass is a PITA, LOL!!!!

My advice, don't "cheap" on the press. I used to have whatever the less expensive RCBS press was called, then scored a whole bunch of used stuff with a SuperBlackhawk I bought, had a "rock crusher" press.

THINK about setting up your reloading station. It can get boring, so keep it equipped with TV, stereo, etc, everything except alcohol. Drinking and reloading is not, well, smart. But get the press on a bench where you can sit with a supportive chair that won't fatigue you, or if standing, high enough that you don't have to bend down at an odd angle to insert/ retrieve and operate the press lever.
 
stumper said:
I've been doing it for years. My initial interest was more to experiment around with loads to maximize accuracy, and just to be able to do my own. You can start out with an inexpensive single stage press and see how you like doing it. If you put a value on your time, it might not be financially worthwhile with a single stage but you can learn the ins and outs. If you really want to save money and crank out a lot of ammo then a progressive press is the way to go - but quite a bit more $$. I still use my single stage RCBS Rock Chucker exclusively..
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I was looking really hard at the rock chucker deluxe kit from cabelas, but someone else spoke the name Dillion about their press and saw their setup for like 400 more and how quick you can turn out the rounds and switch calibers.
 
67Dart273 said:
I used to reload my own, mostly pistol, .38/357, .44, 9mm, and .45 ACP. 9mm in my opinion is a real PITA to load. Of course just recovering the brass is a PITA, LOL!!!!

My advice, don't "cheap" on the press. I used to have whatever the less expensive RCBS press was called, then scored a whole bunch of used stuff with a SuperBlackhawk I bought, had a "rock crusher" press.

THINK about setting up your reloading station. It can get boring, so keep it equipped with TV, stereo, etc, everything except alcohol. Drinking and reloading is not, well, smart. But get the press on a bench where you can sit with a supportive chair that won't fatigue you, or if standing, high enough that you don't have to bend down at an odd angle to insert/ retrieve and operate the press lever.
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Setup I'm looking to get
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/23803/catid/1/XL_650

There is a link to watch a YouTube watching the equipment in action.
 
An RCBS Rockchucker will do everything that any sane person needs to do. Don't lose sight of the fact that the whole point of reloading is to save money on ammo so you can spend more time at the range. Speed is not an issue with me. I prefer to take my time and make sure things are done right, especially since mistakes can literally blow up in my face.
 
If you're rolling rifle ammo in not too big of quantities, the Rock Crusher is fine! I've been reloading 12 gauge shells and rounds for all four of my deer rifles for over 20 years! If you are talking larger quantities, you may want to look at progressive presses, like the Dillon you mentioned.

It is a lot of fun working up rounds to see what your gun really likes, but it can be time consuming and boring! Touching off rounds out of the gun makes it all worth while!!!

God Bless the 2nd Amendment!!!!
 
So here is a question, where do you get your powder from?
 
I don't know a thing about ammo loading but been looking also. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Auto-Progressive-Reloading-Press/dp/B000PD01NS/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top"]Amazon.com: Hornady Lock N Load Auto-Progressive Reloading Press: Sports & Outdoors[/ame] Anybody using one of these? Reviews look like most owners like it.
 
AND BE DAMN CAREFUL about loads. In pistol powder, "Bullseye" is a really good example. You can get about 10 times more Bullseye into an pistol case than will ever be safe, and if you aren't paying attention, you can easily "double charge" a case.

Also be careful when reading the "book." Friend of mine got "across the page" in his Speer manual, long ago, and ended up with some REALLY hot loads.
 
67cudafb said:
I don't know a thing about ammo loading but been looking also. Amazon.com: Hornady Lock N Load Auto-Progressive Reloading Press: Sports & Outdoors Anybody using one of these? Reviews look like most owners like it.
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Got one a couple of years ago. Happy with it. Good value. Good support. Takes a feel to get the rotation position good sometimes. I don't really use the quick change feature. Don't reload that often. But some would really benifit from that.
It's the only progressive I've ever had. So I've got nothing to compare it with.
The thing is Hornaday seems to always give you free bullets with the purchase.
If you can find that deal, don't do what I did and get baby bullets (223 cause I had 5 gallons of brass).
Get 45 or something . More copper and lead for the money and buy your small stuff.
 
You can get powder at local gun shops or you can buy it online but they will get you with a hazardous material fee. Do your research and buy a reloading book............find a readily available powder and bullet supply and back off the loads about 10% when you first start. You will find that each gun is different and they like different loads, sometimes even so slight!!!!
 
I hear you about over charging, it why I'm (if I get the dillon) getting warning buzzer. If goes off if the cartridge gets to much/too little. I will always measure and double check the work as well as spot check my ammo
 
If its pistol you will reload for, and you know you'll do a lot of it you will never regret the Dillon. You reload enough to pay for the equipment, then you live with the equipment you have. Nice to have the best.
 
Well I just found out dillon equipment will only use their equipment. Nothing universal.
 
The Dillion is expensive to tool up for several different rounds. Mind loads .38/.357 and .44 mag/Special.
I have 2 Lee 1000's and a Lee Load All. They work well except for that stupid chain. There is a guy on youtube that uses a coat hanger wire to get rid of the chain. I just have done it yet. I've loaded .380, 9mm, .38, .40, and .44 mag, .45 parabellum and .45 Colt with them. Shell plates are fairly cheap for the Lees.
The Dillion is the better machine. Mines the 550B should I need to load for rifles. If all I wanted to load was pistol, I would buy the Square Deal B.
I pull lead weights off cars out at pick a part. They never charge me for them, so lead can be free. Watch some youtube videos about lead weights, because some look like lead but they are zinc. The steel ones are easy to sepearte. Most stick ons are pure lead and can be mixed with the wheel weights, which is why you need a hardness checker. You may need to buy some tin to mix in to help the lead flow into the molds when pouring. The Lee molds work pretty good for making bullets. Lots of youtube videos to help figure that out. The Lee hardness checker works OK for checking hardness. I buy powder from Wideners and 10ring.com. I'm lucky I stocked up before obama got reelected. I have a bunch of primers too. The Lee dies will work in all the machines and are cheap. Get the carbide ones unless you feel the need to lube your cases to load with steel dies. You can get a ton of formulas on youtube for making your own bullet lube. It is a PITA, but it sure can save you some money.


Obama isn't just a good gun salesman, he helped sell all the stuff to go with it.
 
Oh yeah it does cost a bit but you gotta pay to play right. And now I have to find that video to see how the coat hanger fix worked.
 
i reloaded for 30 years but not so much anymore
i suppose i saved a little but usually it was accuracy
back in the early ninetees my buddy broke the world benchrest record with his 6ppc
100 yards,60 shots through one jagged hole less than 1/2 inch..may have since been broken though..
 
Reloads are good money saver but DONT DARE load it for a protection weapon, puts you in line for liability issues as well as squib loads( barrel Lodging). not where you want to be in a gun fight swinging a hammer that used to be a firearm
 
rj72cda said:
Reloads are good money saver but DONT DARE load it for a protection weapon, puts you in line for liability issues as well as squib loads( barrel Lodging). not where you want to be in a gun fight swinging a hammer that used to be a firearm
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Have federal .45 hollow points for that.
 
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