Anyone have roofing experience?

-

mod38-1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2008
Messages
184
Reaction score
30
I know this is way off topic but thought that I would ask here since there are a lot of people here experienced in different things. We are getting our roof replaced and the contractor is saying that he is not going to put ridge vent back on in the area circled. He said most new houses do not put any in that area and it is not needed. Does this sound right based off of the picture? The section is lower than the main roof ridge vent. Thanks in advance.

IMG_9425.jpeg
 
I can understand that as you need soffit vents for a ridge vent to work and you have virtually zero soffits on that roof line.

That being said, you still need some sort of ventilation. Ridge vent is better than nothing. It's hard to tell. Vaulted ceilings?
 
Last edited:
Yes, the ceilings are vaulted for the most part. The spot that is bumped out has a normal flat ceiling for 1.5 feet or so then it angles up to a vaulted ceiling.

IMG_9431.jpeg
 
If the soffits there are vented, and there is airspace above the insulation then air can flow, so could do it. If the drywall is attached to the rafter, and the rafter is packed with insulation, with the roof sheeting attached to it (no airspace), it wouldn't pass any air, so not necessary.

If Soffit is vented, airspace above, as in a scissor truss, then it would be functional. That doesn't mean necessary, as air will still flow through to the main ridge vent, which is higher. In areas where roofs gather snow, the gable roof may get covered for periods, and ridge vents are basically a hole and may allow water intrusion. Usually the uppermost ridge stays snow free minimizing this issue.
 
With truss framed roofs, the main section of the roof frames through and the small sections are framed over them. Often times, the main roof is sheeted over with plywood and the smaller sections are framed over the plywood. The pictures below are similar to that description.


Horton 1.jpg


The next picture shows an area where only part of the smaller roof section is framed over the larger section. An area like this absolutely needs ventilation.

Horton 7.jpg


Your roof looks like the second picture.
Some roofers have started using ridge shingles that are ventilated but to work, the plywood has to be cut back from the ridge so that air can escape. See, air enters the eaves and exits at the vents in the highest practical point.
The issue though is if the plywood is cut below where it meets at the ridge, it is now unsupported at the edge. This is a structural point. The perimeter of the plywood is where the strength of it is transferred to the framing. The roofer would need to install blocking at the edge of the plywood and nail the plywood into it.
 
Thanks for all the replies so far. The house currently does have a ridge vent there and I believe the soffit on the bottom in that section is vented. I want it done right but also do not want to make the roofer mad and question his credibility and create problems if something has changed and things are done differently now. I have no idea on how that section was framed or what trusses or insulation was used as there is no inside access to it.
 
Thanks for all the replies so far. The house currently does have a ridge vent there and I believe the soffit on the bottom in that section is vented. I want it done right but also do not want to make the roofer mad and question his credibility and create problems if something has changed and things are done differently now. I have no idea on how that section was framed or what trusses or insulation was used as there is no inside access to it.
Its your money, if he doesnt want to take it to do that section of ridge vent, Id find a new roofer. If he scoffs, just tell him to humor you and do it, thats what hes getting paid for. Ive seen more than one professional give bad advice.
 
As an Insurance Adjuster I would recommend keeping that Vented Ridge Cap!

As @Kern Dog noted in his reply and with his photos… this the exact reason you would need to keep.

Let me put it like this…you have one now and have had no issues that I can see from the photo, that the sheathing is buckling or has become wavy, then I would keep it as is was originally built.

I also agree with @70SwingerGuy statement!

From the photo it looks like a 3-tab and I’m assuming you’re going back with a laminate. If so, all the more reason to keep as laminate shingles are thicker and weigh more and will hold heat longer than 3-tabs!

Just from your photo, it looks like you’re roof is about 15-20 squares.

But, as others have stated, just my 2-cents worth also!

Best of luck going forward!
 
The ridge vent is the way to go, I had my roof redone a few days ago and have a ridge vent running the entire length north to south on the main ridge. I also have a ridge vent running east and west from where the ridge over the garage ties into the main ridge. I can already tell the difference in attic heat loss from when there were only two roof turbines.
 
For that little span it isn't like it cost alot to do it so I'm not sure why the roofer wouldn't. Basically put it back the way it was etc. that's what you are paying for really.
 
Thanks again for all the replies. I will nicely try to convince him to put it back on in that area. The bad part of the scenario is that I paid for 1/2 of the job already over the winter as a deposit and it was not brought up until now so it is not as easy as just use someone else. Hopefully he will just do it and not make a big deal about it.
 
Do you have pull down stairs to where you can go up there and look? That way, you can compare what you have with the pics provided by @Kern Dog . It shouldn't cost more since the slots are already cut in the plywood at the top of the ridge. Offer to buy the needed vent sections. The shingles to top it won't take any more labor to install.
 
Just thought that I would give an update. After talking with the roofer he agreed to put ridge vent back on there. Here are some pics of the finished roof if anyone sees anything out of place just let me know. Thanks

IMG_9526.jpeg


IMG_9529.jpeg


IMG_9524.jpeg


IMG_9528.jpeg


IMG_9527.jpeg
 

Nice looking House, I just had my roof done too. When my house was built, it wasn’t code to install roof vents. Now it’s code and the roofer installed vents at no cost, he didn’t add them into the estimate at first. Can I ask how much they charged for your roof replacement?

2025-05-14 15:23:32Z_1.jpeg
2025-05-14 15:23:32Z.jpeg
 
I gotta do one on shop so curious what type you guys used? Pros/cons?
Just thought that I would give an update. After talking with the roofer he agreed to put ridge vent back on there. Here are some pics of the finished roof if anyone sees anything out of place just let me know. Thanks

View attachment 1716413109

View attachment 1716413110

View attachment 1716413111

View attachment 1716413112

View attachment 1716413113

Nice looking House, I just had my roof done too. When my house was built, it wasn’t code to install roof vents. Now it’s code and the roofer installed vents at no cost, he didn’t add them into the estimate at first. Can I ask how much they charged for your roof replacement?

View attachment 1716413118View attachment 1716413119
 
Good thing you did install roof vents. The roof decking would rot out from sweating if you didn't.
 
Nice looking House, I just had my roof done too. When my house was built, it wasn’t code to install roof vents. Now it’s code and the roofer installed vents at no cost, he didn’t add them into the estimate at first. Can I ask how much they charged for your roof replacement?

View attachment 1716413118View attachment 1716413119
$13,300 is what I paid. They used the Owen's Corning 5 part system with duration shingles. The duration shingles seemed like a good middle of the road shingle when I researched them.
 
$13,300 is what I paid. They used the Owen's Corning 5 part system with duration shingles. The duration shingles seemed like a good middle of the road shingle when I researched them.
That's a decent price... Been getting prices for $18K-27K for our house. And it is a simple roof!:eek:
 
I had a similar leak and found it was a small nail pop that let water under the shingle. Replacing the nail, sealing it, and sliding in a new shingle fixed it.
 
Good thing you did install roof vents. The roof decking would rot out from sweating if you didn't.
This is true. I have a couple of walk in closets the wife says they are always hot I said "its because there is no insulation under the drywall(on the rafters) if there was the roof would rot". I think there is a vent system for rafters where you can insulate though but yes the roof needs airflow under it on the wood side in the attic...
 
$13,300 is what I paid. They used the Owen's Corning 5 part system with duration shingles. The duration shingles seemed like a good middle of the road shingle when I researched them.
Do you know how many squares you had.
 
-
Back
Top Bottom