Anyone used a McLeod RST Twin Disc dual clutch set up?

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Rocket

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I was looking at a few clutch set ups for my 4 speed 416 stroker and came across this McLeod unit. There is not much feedback on Summit or other resale sites. Would appreciate any feedback from an actual user. This will be a street driven car and not see any drag strips.

Summit hast he following description.

Intended for high-horsepower street fans, the McLeod RST Street Twin clutch kits are economically priced twin disc clutches that use your existing flywheel. Able to handle up to 800 hp, the RST Street Twin clutches remain completely street-drivable. The organic lined clutch discs provide smooth engagement with a soft pedal effort, making these clutch kits ideal for the street performance enthusiast. (For select vehicles where these clutches are not adaptable to your existing flywheel, a new flywheel is included in the kit.)
 
I was looking at a few clutch set ups for my 4 speed 416 stroker and came across this McLeod unit. There is not much feedback on Summit or other resale sites. Would appreciate any feedback from an actual user. This will be a street driven car and not see any drag strips.

Summit hast he following description.

Intended for high-horsepower street fans, the McLeod RST Street Twin clutch kits are economically priced twin disc clutches that use your existing flywheel. Able to handle up to 800 hp, the RST Street Twin clutches remain completely street-drivable. The organic lined clutch discs provide smooth engagement with a soft pedal effort, making these clutch kits ideal for the street performance enthusiast. (For select vehicles where these clutches are not adaptable to your existing flywheel, a new flywheel is included in the kit.)

Yep. Had one behind a 540 BBC in a 3700lb street car. It had a very soft pedal and was easy to install. And it will definitely clamp down. It's pretty much everything McLeod said it would be.... Mine came with the flywheel also.. I also had to use an adjustable clutch fork but that may have been because of my Bellhousing.

However I had not a clue about what I was up against. I needed slippage and alot of stuff got broke lol. If you were a hardcore drag racer I would say spend the money 3 times over and get an adjustable clutch. However for street manners it's a good clutch. Others may chime in but that was my experience with it....

JW
 
Only once. Replaced it with a Sof-Lok.

Never again would I use one. I don't care whose name is on the box.




EDIT: See post 2. He nailed it. It's a parts breaker.
 
Only once. Replaced it with a Sof-Lok.

Never again would I use one. I don't care whose name is on the box.




EDIT: See post 2. He nailed it. It's a parts breaker.
YR knows the deal.

Why am I thinking mud bogg and truck pullers use this thing?

JW
 
YR knows the deal.

Why am I thinking mud bogg and truck pullers use this thing?

JW
As someone who used to truck pull, it's because we want clamping force with little to no slippage. Slippage is powerloss, and when you're seperated by fractions of inches, any slippage is the difference between podium and 10th place. But we also built the trucks to take that. A double disc is nice but man they make QUAD discs now that really clamp down with 3 TONS of force or more.

That said, I wouldn't run a double disc on a stock trans. If you're gonna run one, I suggest upgrading the input shaft in the 4speed. If they make an upgrade for it that is (honestly haven't looked but I will), if you're gonna be doing any hard core racing , spend the money and upgrade wherever possible in the transmission and for sure upgrade the rear axles. If you actually hook the rear tires, you might still break a u joint but that's easier to fix than the trans or axles.
 
Do not get that clutch! I had one 9.75 twin rst coustom made to work with my 122 flywheel behind my hi-po 273. After sending it in for warranty 3 times for chadder on take off & stiff shifting. It was determined the 2nd "new" pressure plate was also warped. They have good customer service, but that twin setup for mopars isn't worth a dam! I got all my money back from them at least. Ended up having ram build a hybrid single scalloped 10 inchand works GREAT! stay away from the twin set from McLeod.
 
I don't get ( I'll never use one again because it broke my parts) WTF. My friend had one behind a 540 in ford 41 Merc broke a trutrac but I don't think it was the clutch also knocked 4 teeth off Richmond ring gear, replaced with a motive gear never had another problem.
 
I don't get ( I'll never use one again because it broke my parts) WTF. My friend had one behind a 540 in ford 41 Merc broke a trutrac but I don't think it was the clutch also knocked 4 teeth off Richmond ring gear, replaced with a motive gear never had another problem.
I have to ask. Are you guys trying to drive them like they're a single disc? Double clutches do drive differently.
 
@Hipo65 I know you disagreed but it is true. I worked for a company called TST Diesel back a few years ago. I did clutch installs and set up pulling trucks as well as test products. We'd take the customer for a drive and showed them the difference. There is in fact a difference. Some people adapt easily without knowing it, others don't. The ones that don't were more likely to break stuff, namely input shafts.
 
im know of TST some of the pioneers of cummins diesel performance. Im aware of the twins being diffrent, a diesel pulling truck you're not shifting gears let alone trying to shift quickly. Slowing down 2 discs's (even though there most the time smaller in dia. then stock single disc) its alot more load on the single brass syncro blocker ring than a single disc. Now had the back to back pressure plates not been poorly made to begin with it may have been diffrent on take off. But shifting at high rpm (5000+) a single is alot easyer on the syncro's. Not to mention unsprung hubs are definitely harder on input shafts. But its a give and take with both of them.
 
im know of TST some of the pioneers of cummins diesel performance. Im aware of the twins being diffrent, a diesel pulling truck you're not shifting gears let alone trying to shift quickly. Slowing down 2 discs's (even though there most the time smaller in dia. then stock single disc) its alot more load on the single brass syncro blocker ring than a single disc. Now had the back to back pressure plates not been poorly made to begin with it may have been diffrent on take off. But shifting at high rpm (5000+) a single is alot easyer on the syncro's. Not to mention unsprung hubs are definitely harder on input shafts. But its a give and take with both of them.
I agree. And I agree about the high rpm shifting . Which was what I was getting at. We'd have customers break stuff, asked when it happened, it was almost always a high rpm clutch dump. We even had a guy try shifting WHILE PULLING THE SLED at over 3k..... gernaded.....
 
Thanks for all the input. I am going to do more research. This is a street driven car and will not be raced or piling any sleds so dead hooks will likely not happen on street tires.

What do you recommend then in a single disc? Torque of 500+ from 2400 rpm through ~5000. Peak power around 5800.
 
Thanks for all the input. I am going to do more research. This is a street driven car and will not be raced or piling any sleds so dead hooks will likely not happen on street tires.

What do you recommend then in a single disc? Torque of 500+ from 2400 rpm through ~5000. Peak power around 5800.


For that you can see if you can still get a Borg & Beck/Long cover and a good rag disc. Use about 2200-2400 pounds of base and a bit of counterweight.

If you can't get a B&B/Long cover I prefer the Borg & Beck over the birth control pressure plate.
 
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