Appliance repairmen help!

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MoparDaddy

MoparDaddy

Damn Right I Carry!
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Have a Maytag Ensignia washer that won't spin. I depressed the switch an the motor kicks on, but that's it. No draining, no nothin.
 
Dart_Doctor said:
Time for the scrap yard .
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Lol, I love people that feel that way. I have picked up a lot of appliances that cost very little or nothing to fix. I picked up a really nice side by side refrigerator that was being thrown away because it was cooling well... Cleaned out the cob webs and put it in a rental and it was still working fine five years later when I sold the rental.
 
Mine did the same thing I think they called it the tranmission or something :/ cost me 140 total for the fix
 
A lot of them have a little rubber coupler doohickey thingie that couples the transmission to the basket. Flip the thing upside down and look at the bottom of the basket in the center. If you see what looks like black rubber particles, there's your huckleberry. REAL easy to fix IF that's what it is. I've done a ton of them.

It MIGHT look like this.
 

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RustyRatRod said:
It MIGHT look like this.
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That is the motor drive coupler on mine. If it does nothing then that is most likely the problem.

$7.95 shipped on eBay. Be sure to get the one with the steel insert.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PART-28...142?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6fe4c30e
 

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It was free and I don't have money for a new one asa. Thanks bill rob and Larry. I'll check those links out when I get good enough service
 
MoparDaddy said:
It was free and I don't have money for a new one asa. Thanks bill rob and Larry. I'll check those links out when I get good enough service
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In looking up the parts for that Maytag it shares the same parts with Whirlpool and the brands Whirlpool owns so it might be made by Whirlpool or vice versa.
 
You need to get the model number off yours so you know you get the right one. There probably ain't too many different ones but you want the right one the first time.

Oh yeah, hooha. You carburetor went out today too. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
You need to get the model number off yours so you know you get the right one. There probably ain't too many different ones but you want the right one the first time.

Oh yeah, hooha. You carburetor went out today too. lol
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Washing machine model numbers for the coupler is on the link I posted.
 
Oh and one more thing hooha........I cannot remember 100% but something sticks out in my mind about that nut that holds the coupler on being left hand thread. Just be careful when you try to loosen it up. I'm not for sure, but it would suck to break it so just gently tweak it and you can feel if it's gonna loosen up whichever way you turn it. I would go into it assuming right hand thread and just gently try to turn it. If it seems like it's gonna tighten up, go the other way.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Oh and one more thing hooha........I cannot remember 100% but something sticks out in my mind about that nut that holds the coupler on being left hand thread. Just be careful when you try to loosen it up. I'm not for sure, but it would suck to break it so just gently tweak it and you can feel if it's gonna loosen up whichever way you turn it. I would go into it assuming right hand thread and just gently try to turn it. If it seems like it's gonna tighten up, go the other way.
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If it is like the ones I have done there is nothing threaded that attaches the coupler. The shafts almost meet. You have to pull the water pump and the motor to replace the coupler than reinstall it. Just makes sure you get everything lined back up. It isn't a bad job at all for little skinny guys. The cause of the couplers breaking is generally an over loaded machine.

Here are step by step instructions if that is your coupler.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Replace-a-Washer-Coupler-Whirlpool-or-Mayt/?ALLSTEPS

Frankie said:
You've done a ton of them, eh? So, did you ever get one right? :poke:
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Lol, you are so mean.... but it is funny...
 
It is a really easy job to replace the motor coupler. Unplug the machine and disconnect the washer hoses and drain line. Tip the machine over (get the water out 1st) and the drain pump, motor and transmission assembly should be visible. un clip the drain pump and then remove the bolts that hold in the motor. The bolts should screw in right handed and loosen left. Then separate the motor and coupler from the transmission. If the coupler is at fault then you should be able to put your hand on the coupler while the machine is still all together and while holding one end of the plastic coupler, try to turn the other end of the coupler. If it does not turn all at once (both ends of the coupler together) then the coupler is more than likely the culprit.
It could also just be the drain pump itself. remove it and check for obstructions or blockages, you should be able to insert a wide flat bladed screwdriver into the hole that the pump attaches to the shaft and spin the pump. if the pump does not turn it is the drain pump.
It could also be the lid switch, If the timer will only advance to a certain point in the cycle and the machine will not drain then replace the lid switch.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
This sound like what you have going on?

http://www.justanswer.com/appliance...a-washer-won-t-spin-please-help-diagnose.html


If that is your problem the kit is $24.89 shipped out of Denver Colorado.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Fsp...668?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53f4a899b4
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This should be the problem, yours will not have the drive coupling. if the thrust washer gets stiff it will run the agitator instead of spinning, if it locks it can burn the belt or the pulley on the motor in either case the motor runs but nothing goes. replacing this kit is not hard except for getting the "E" clip in with the proper shims preloading the brake release. Good luck. Ive done this on several dozen machines over the last 14 years.
 
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