Assembly Lube Spray?

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No, in my opinion, the wear surfaces that need lube the most, during first start are areas of very tight clearances, that, once assembled, no spray lube is going to get were it is needed. Instead, you should spend your time and money on using a good paste assembly lube during the build, using the best break in oil with zinc additives, priming the engine, then performing the break in per instructions. The biggest mistakes people make are assembly lubing the sides of the lifters, which keeps them from spinning during break in and not being ready for break in. Being ready means timing set (yes it can be done without the engine running) coolant in, fuel in bowl, dist not 180 out and tach hooked up.
 
I was curious about this question also and asked my cam grinder about that because of course I had to turn the motor over several times to adjust the valves and such. and the answer was don't worry about it the assembly lube impregnates the metal and I'll be fine, and was.
 
j par said:
I was curious about this question also and asked my cam grinder about that because of course I had to turn the motor over several times to adjust the valves and such. and the answer was don't worry about it the assembly lube impregnates the metal and I'll be fine, and was.
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Lube of any kind can not penetrate the surface of a lifter or lobe. It is put there to help. High RPM splash from the rods is the only lube once the assembly lube is wiped away! I wait to install my intake till after I adjust valves so I can brush on as much lube thru the valley holes as I can.
 
j par said:
I was curious about this question also and asked my cam grinder about that because of course I had to turn the motor over several times to adjust the valves and such. and the answer was don't worry about it the assembly lube impregnates the metal and I'll be fine, and was.
Click to expand...

Also, you don't have to turn the engine during priming if you perform a simple camshaft trick before installing it. I chuck up the new cam in a lathe and machine a small grove on the two journals that feed the rockers. #2 & #4 journals. Half round grove 1/16" wide #1/16" deep. This allows oil to the rockers all the time instead of only when the holes line up.
 
try to rotate the engine as little as possible before fire up, especially with flat lifters. add more cam lube, if it impregnated the metal why is it initial lobe/lifter wear in is sometimes a problem? pre heat good break in oil, pour some oil into filter, prime pump and rotate crank once or twice slowley to see oil at rockers, with thumb over 1 plug hole feeling for compression, rotate crank clockwise to around 10*-15* advance on the comp. stroke. install distrib.with rotor pointing to 1 on distrib. cap
 
LOL.. all these extra priming "tricks" are just a waste of time, anybody would think these engines glow red hot as soon as you touch the key..If your worried about the rocker arm tubes, you can remove one of the hold down bolts and fill them with oil..
 
Actually the Torco MPZ is pretty good shiz. And the spray can makes things go quick. The stuff bonds with metal and doesn't wipe away easy (even with a lacquer thinner soaked rag). Great for valve and rocker tips, timing chains, etc...

Ive never tried it on a cam though. The good old heavy moly EP type grease type stuff has always worked for me there.
 
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