Auto to manual conversion

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philllyc

First time restoration guy
Joined
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Staten Island NY
I am installing a manual transmission into a 1969 dart convertible that was automatic. on the front drivers frame rail there is a plate that the Z bar connects to with the nylon rings. Does anybody have some nice photos of the plate area. I do Not want to weld it in the wrong place.
and possibly some accurate measurments of the area?
Thanks in advance:prayer:

Phillly c

you can check out my progress (although delayed) at www.dartmanclassic.com
 
I am installing a manual transmission into a 1969 dart convertible that was automatic. on the front drivers frame rail there is a plate that the Z bar connects to with the nylon rings. Does anybody have some nice photos of the plate area. I do Not want to weld it in the wrong place.
and possibly some accurate measurments of the area?
Thanks in advance:prayer:

Phillly c

you can check out my progress (although delayed) at www.dartmanclassic.com

Check out this thread

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=45632&highlight=bracket
 
I need one of those "torque brackets" as well. Is it best to Fab one or are they sold somewhere for a reasonable cost? Seems it would be pretty easy to make out of 3/16 plate.
 
There is a bracket that is welded to the frame that holds the pivot ball (pivot ball bolts on with a nut and lock washer). You might all ready have a hole in the inner fender to line it up. Easiest way is install the bell and trans and see if the holes lines up with the ball and bracket for the transmission side.

This is if you want to run a factory Z-bar. There are alternatives like a hydraulic setup.
 
If you have to drill a hole, it's not super critical. The pivot shaft has ball bushings because the motor/trans is rocking and rolling all the time anyway
 
................Easiest way is install the bell and trans and see if the holes lines up with the ball and bracket for the transmission side.................

^^^^This^^^^^

A length of threaded rod from the frame side "hole" to the bell housing pivot can help verify the install. MP Chassis recommends the pivots be "straight across in any view".

IMO, The hole on the frame side location is a rather important item to have as the clutch pedal rod runs through the firewall. You don't want to run out of clearance for the rod travel.
 
I gotta say you wanted a 69 rag top bad. Most would have hauled that to scrap yard. Looks like all that's left of the original car is the dash and wind shield. Nice job keep it up.
 
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