Axle Studsss

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olddman

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Finished putting the rear end together yesterday and today I put the wheels on. Problem is when I tried to torque the lug nuts, they would not tighten up. Looks like the studs are turning in the axle shaft flange holes. Had three nuts out of ten torque down. Pulled the axles back out to change the studs. Just wondering if there is anything that I need to do to be sure the new studs fit properly so they don't turn in the holes?
 
dorman sells studs that are a "plus 1" oversize that are specifically for this. big enough to catch, but not so big you need blow out the hole with the drill.

or just a whisper of weld on there will hold 'em tight.
 
Thanks for the tips. They aren't sloppy in hole loose, just turning in the hole. May just try some with larger splines.
 
You might not even need larger size splines, just fresh ones. It depends on what stripped, the studs or the hub.
But I am one of those that has tack welded studs on the back side. On an original four lug Girling front disc for an English Ford, converted to large pattern mopar.. Pulled the disc hat, bolted a wheel to it without a tire, and zapped away.
 
Been doing some thinking (?) and have decided to try some regular new studs. May get them tack welded if I can find someone who will do it. Anyhow will give update when I get finished.
Thanks again for help.
 
Also were the spinning studs on the left side of the car? People have been known to snap the LH lug studs on the left side of the car if it was still equipped with them.
 
A56 said:
Many recommend tack welding them.
Click to expand...
think I would have double nutted them to make sure they were straight ,and tack welded the originals .=but I `m a tight ss most of the time ...
 
Just something to think about...

If you get studs in and they seem good but the next time you attempt to remove the nuts they spin.... hell of a time removing the wheel!
 
Dana67Dart said:
Just something to think about...

If you get studs in and they seem good but the next time you attempt to remove the nuts they spin.... hell of a time removing the wheel!
Click to expand...
pfft! that's the next guy's problem!

ship it!
 
This is where I am at now. Removed and replaced all axle studs on right axle.
Put wheel (Cragar SS) back on and used new lug nuts and washers. Nuts are 7/16 x 20. Had read on site that nuts should be torqued to 65 ft. lbs. Started torque at 30 ft. lbs. and then went to 40 ft. lbs. then 50 ft. lbs. When I got to 50 ft. lbs. one on the lug nuts would not torque to 50 ft. lbs. Lug nut continued to turn. Removed lug nut and the washer was almost eaten through by the lug nut.
Then removed the wheel and brake drum and put paint mark on stud and axle flange. Put four washers on stud and use regular lug nut to tighten washers. Started torquing at 30 ft. lbs. and increased by 10 ft. lbs. When I got to 50 ft. lbs. I heard a click. Went to 60 ft. lbs. and heard click. Went to 65 ft. lbs. and heard click. Removed nut and washers, checked stud and no movement.
I am thinking that the washers that came with the lug nuts are too soft allowing the lug nut to eat through them and not allowing torque to be reached. So, I am planning to going to go to the nut and bolt store down the road and see if I can get some stainless-steel washers to use.
Called Cragar to get part number for new lug nuts and washers, so they are the correct ones. Tried some from online source but they were knock offs and were poorly made. The Cragar lug nuts are identical to the ones that came with the wheels.
Should I try stainless-steel washers? What are your thoughts?
 
Will try to keep this update brief.

Took the washers and nuts to the nut and bolt store. Was told that the washers looked like they were grade 5 which is a soft steel. Wound up buying some grade 8 washers to try. Got home and tried them out but they would not fit. Diameter of the washers is too big. My Cragar's are the small bolt pattern.
Decided to call Cragar Wheels to see if I could get some help. Talked to customer service rep and told him about my problem with the washers. He in turn transferred me to another rep who was supposed to be more knowledgeable about the lug nuts and washers. Again told him my problem and said he would check with the company that manufactured their lug nuts and washers about my problem. He called me back and said that he had talked to an engineer at Cragar and was told he had not heard of any washer problems. The manufacturer was contacted and they said no change had been made to way washers are made and had not heard of any problems with them.
Yesterday I got a call from rep and was told that he had talked to the engineers at Cragar again. They did not have an answer for him. Was asked to send some pictures for them to look at. Sent pictures and talked to rep this morning and he said the washers looked like Cragar washers. He then asked me if I could send him the washers so Cragar engineers could check them. Said that he would replace the lug nuts and washers that I had bought.
So still do not have an answer but the rep said that he would let me know what Cragar engineers uncovered.
Nice to have a company stand behind their product. Now I hope that the replacements work!
 
If you're going to use a regular washer you'll most likely need an AN washer (Army Navy) They have a more precision hole and a smaller diameter than a standard washer.

If you have a vernier caliper or regular caliper measure the i.d., o.d., and thickness on the Cragar washers you have and I'll see if I can help you find an option.

Tom
 
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