B & M shifter question

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rebeldart

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Looks like I'm going to have a problem with shifter cable routing and TTI's - the cable lays agains them when "relaxed" and I can tie it off maybe a half inch. Noticed the TTI's are about a 1/4" away from starter as well. Any thoughts on heat shielding for either issue ? 340/727.
 
I've got Schumacher headers so I don't have the routing issues you do but I still used a Thermo-Tec sleeve around the cable to shield it. I've heard of guys using heater hose and what-not as a shield.

Mine comes off the front of the trans, loop across the lower bellhousing, and then up to the shifter on the right side.

http://thermotec.com/heat-sleeves.html
 
Mines obviously routed the same, there's really no options regarding the route it needs to take to remain un-kinked. I'll look into the exhaust wrap, maybe a good thick layer would protect the section of the vinyl coated cable. Not sure if the starters proximity to the header tube is an issue or not regarding heat ?
 
I went through this crap with my barracuda. tti headers and such. Started with a hurst promatic 2, burned up tranny. rebuilt, switched to b+m pro ratchet, burned up tranny. Tried to shield cable with rubber hose and tie up with out binding cable, was probably ok, but in retrospect, no matter how I tried to adjust cable to each gear they would not fall properly into each detent. thus burning tranny. maybe the top dollar shifters has provisions to compensate at the shifter. With severe frustration, I looked at my #`s matching 4 speed laying on the floor, and said your going in next! thus solving problem. but I`m sure someone on this site has solved cable shifter woe`s not falling into their detents. a good quality heat shield will probably work for you, but main`ly do not operate car if all shift`s don`t fall into their detents!!!!
 
rebeldart said:
Looks like I'm going to have a problem with shifter cable routing and TTI's - the cable lays agains them when "relaxed" and I can tie it off maybe a half inch. Noticed the TTI's are about a 1/4" away from starter as well. Any thoughts on heat shielding for either issue ? 340/727.
Click to expand...

My 408 stroker with a A518 and TTIs melted the cable in about 2 hours run time!!! Sucks!!! To keep the cable away from the heat of the headers, you need a shifter that the cable enters thru the rear rather than the front. The only one I found that did was the Hurst (now B&M) Street Bandit series. The Hurst P/N is 80797 or 80798 depending on whither you want a round ball or straight handle on the shifter. The 81050 P/N will also work. Can't remember which handle style it had.

All route the cable to the rear and you have to put a hole in the floor board in the area of the rear of the inboard bucket sear mount reinforcement. The kits don't come with cables but a 5 foot was sufficient for my application.

If you start searching both B&M and Hurst web sites you can see that most of the shifters are front entry regardless of the model. The Street Bandit was the only one I found that was rear entry. There may be more but I haven't found them. Don't really like the style of the shifter but it works and doesn't melt the cable and leave me laying in the gravel pile trying to get it in gear to drive it home!!

Larry
 
Mini starter equipped. Dang - looks like this is going to be a problem, I'll try the Thermo-tec wrap or something similar, seems like a good thick (albeit ugly) wrap of this would insulate the cable ?
 
Ugly? The sleeves have a "tech" look to me.

downpipes7img.jpg
 
Hey guys.I plan on getting the B&M shifter pro star i think its called that anyhow you say routing and heat is a problim whit the cable.I have a 69 dart with 727 tranny i could use a few tips.i was told if the cable you get with the shifter is too long we could by a shorter one.would this help us all out? thanksssssssss
 
Cable length depends of the installation. I know some guys have had better luck with shorter cables but there are other variables involved. Heat (melting) is a problem for certain types of headers because the collector passes so close to where the cable mounts.
 
Preston - trying to see in your pic how you protected yours, can't quite make it out. Thermo tec wrap ?
 
It's a pre-sewn sleeve, not a wrap. In the picture you can see it loop down slightly and across the converter dust shield. They're both silver so they tend to blend. I think I used part 18051 - and looks nothing like the picture on the website.
 
Alrighty then - Looks like a fix IF its working for you to date. I might be able to secure the cable about a half inch away from the collector but no more. Your stating "they" as in plural - you're using two or more ? I'll ask again about starter proximity to header tube as well - will this be an issue and is there a fix (mini starter) Thanks for your input - are you doing another car anytime soon ?
 
sleeve it in fuel line hose and slip spark plug wire fireproof sleeve over that with worm fuel clamps to secure it.
 
rebeldart said:
Alrighty then - Looks like a fix IF its working for you to date. I might be able to secure the cable about a half inch away from the collector but no more. Your stating "they" as in plural - you're using two or more ? I'll ask again about starter proximity to header tube as well - will this be an issue and is there a fix (mini starter) Thanks for your input - are you doing another car anytime soon ?
Click to expand...

I've not had any issues but as you can see in the picture I don't have a big 'ol collector next the trans and, by the sounds of it, a lot more clearance than you. I used one 3' length of sleeve.

If you already have a mini-starter I'm not sure what you can do. Heat may not be a big deal with them as it is with the large ones. I probably wouldn't about it but you might be able to find a heat shield for it. On my 440 with the Schumacher headers and mini-starter there's a generous amount of room.

My wife's got a '69 Newport convertible waiting for a transformation. :)
 
Been running stock starter for years with no problems. although I run the wires above or different from stock routing. although there is about 1\8" clearance from header, it has`nt shown any hint of melting. also tti`s claim of being able to remove starter even with slip tube removed is pure bull.
 
I can get no more than 1/2" clearance from the header tubes in two different spots - ordered the Thermotec sleeve - here's hoping.
 
rebeldart said:
I can get no more than 1/2" clearance from the header tubes in two different spots - ordered the Thermotec sleeve - here's hoping.
Click to expand...

Don't think its going to work. Didn't on mine! Problem is that the cables they use are nothing more than a plastic shield with the wire running inside. ANY heat will soften the plastic then when you go from any gear toward park, you are pushing the cable inside the shield. Since the heat has weakened the plastic shield it begins to bulge at the hottest spot and soon the cable pushes thru and viola, NO SHIFT. Been there, done that. Went to the rear entry shifter and routed the cable towards the rear and up thru the floor. Problem solved.

Larry
 
Been there - done that. Try the wrap but I'd say look into new rear cabled shifter (and they ain't cheap)
 
Well alrighty then .... cable lasted about 20 minutes (engine break-in). So much fer wraps.
 
rebeldart said:
Well alrighty then .... cable lasted about 20 minutes (engine break-in). So much fer wraps.
Click to expand...

Sounds familiar.... THe rear entry shifter is the way to go. But now you have this hole in the floorboard toward the front that you have to plug. Never any shortage of things to fix thats for sure!

Larry
 
Sorry to hear. Heck mine lasted longer with just fuel line as a shield. seems your options are, high$ rear entry and a new hole, factory console, with some real linkages, or 4spd:cheers:. good luck
 
Sorry to hear that, man. Like I said, it works good for me but I don't have the exhaust clearance issues you do.

Other than that, how'd the break-in go?
 
Break-in was a little nerve-racking (but I'm a worrier) Saturday we got 'er all set-up and it wouldn't fire up, didn't want to crank too much and wipe off all my cam lube. I had swapped some parts with a buddy for an Edelbrock hi-perf fuel pump he said he couldn't keep from leaking, I figured I'd give it a shot. This same buddy was helping me with start-up Saturday, he says "you know, I can't remember whether the fuel pump leaked, or never pumped fuel at all...all I remember is changing it out and problem solved". Alllllrighty then ... slapped a stock one on I had, rigged up 5/16 line vs the 3/8 and Sunday she lit off fairly quick .... couple of amateurs but we brought it up to 2500 got the timing close and ran 'er 20 minutes, good pressure, good temp, felt great beings I built the 340 all by my lonesome with a couple good books, DVD and alot of help here. All appears well with the exception of worthless valve cover gaskets (FelPro kit) and a trans pan leak. Need to resolve this shifter issue, allignment then have it all "dialed in" at a shop. I'll be posting story and pictures (start to finish) in a few weeks with a big thanks to all thet helped.
 
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