Ball Joint Size

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GOLD74DART

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I have a 75 Dart Swinger, 3182bbl a/t p/strg p/brakes, which has front disc brakes, 8-1/4 rear drums. I ordered upper ball joints from the local autozone (Ft Worth TX) and the shaft size of the ball joint is larger than mine? The zone says it is the only one listed for my car. I read their are large and small ball joints, but I thought the difference was front drum brakes use small and disc use large ball joints? The lower ball joints are correct as are all the bushings, upper and lower? How do I order the correct ball joints or do I have wrong spindles/ball joints on my car? The car would not move forward unless wheels were straight, if wheel was turned the right side wheel would turn inwards. First time I've seen this problem. Plus any tips on getting the upper ball jonts out? Any help is appreciated.
 
Ball Joints drum to disc are different. A special socket removes the upper ball jt. right hand threaded. Moog upper ball jt.s are the best ones. A couple of tac welds fron the undeside of th jt. before boot install will keep them from either pulling out or turning threads in arms. I know it sounds crazy but I have seen that more so on the old Dodge trucks. Try to call a Napa. Auto Zone likes to sell alot of jap junk and are'nt real out going.
 
Removing the upper ball joint takes a special socket. Unfortunately, there are three different sizes. The small used on A-body drum brakes, the medium used on A-body disk brakes and B/E bodies. The larger was used on trucks and possibly the body-on-frame Imperials. (Think C-bods also used the medium, but I'm not sure.) The small and medium sockets I have are 1 inch drive. One came from e-bay, the other from Snap-On tools. Last time I checked Snap-On had them listed in the catalog but they were not on either of the two trucks I checked. It would be a special order item you might be able to get off their website.

My experience with the ball joints is that they are difficult to remove. I've had to use a 4-5 ft cheater bar over a breaker bar to get them off after 30+ years. Tried it once over a ratchet handle. I do not recommend this as I split the head on the handle (yea for lifetime warranties).
 
Is the bolt pattern on the disc the SBP 4" or BBP 4.5"

If it's the small pattern, then you need the small ball joint.
 
it has the big bolt pattern 5 x 4.5, both ball joints new and ones that were in the car have the same socket size, about 1 3/4" from one flat side to the other.
 
72 Demon said:
Removing the upper ball joint takes a special socket. Unfortunately, there are three different sizes. The small used on A-body drum brakes, the medium used on A-body disk brakes and B/E bodies. The larger was used on trucks and possibly the body-on-frame Imperials. (Think C-bods also used the medium, but I'm not sure.) The small and medium sockets I have are 1 inch drive. One came from e-bay, the other from Snap-On tools. Last time I checked Snap-On had them listed in the catalog but they were not on either of the two trucks I checked. It would be a special order item you might be able to get off their website.

My experience with the ball joints is that they are difficult to remove. I've had to use a 4-5 ft cheater bar over a breaker bar to get them off after 30+ years. Tried it once over a ratchet handle. I do not recommend this as I split the head on the handle (yea for lifetime warranties).
Click to expand...

I've been soaking them with wd40, maybe nows a good time to tell the wife I need new tubular arms!!
 
Tried it once over a ratchet handle. I do not recommend this as I split the head on the handle (yea for lifetime warranties).[/QUOTE]

Did you need a bathroom break after it broke!!! and I bet they wonder how you broke that ratchet like that and still have to warranty it :toothy10:
 
Any chance you have access to an impact gun or air tools?

If the uppers are stuck, many times an impact gun will help to "rattle" them loose.

Moog Part #K772 is correct. Mis-boxed ???

Many parts stores will rent you the correct tool (small style socket for the K772 application).
 
I've used a large pipe wrench with a 5' long steel pipe on the end, but I still say use the correct socket.
 
6pk2goDemon said:
Any chance you have access to an impact gun or air tools?

If the uppers are stuck, many times an impact gun will help to "rattle" them loose.

Moog Part #K772 is correct. Mis-boxed ???

Many parts stores will rent you the correct tool (small style socket for the K772 application).
Click to expand...

I do have access to air tools, but haven't been able to check other stores for the socket/tool. I found one for sale $63.00, just seems to steap for one time use. I only have to change one ball joint. Will find the moog part#K772 you gave me and get with the local repair shops and let them change it. Thanks for the info help. I just have too many projects right now. Repair work on my Mom's car, wifes new 81 280zx project, runs and drives just needs interior work and some small rust repair. My two darts, rebuilding my 318 to a 344 build like BJR wrote, block and 360 heads are ready, crank needs balancing, but my 360 magnum short block rebuild is together and ready, oh did I mention repainting the kitchen & bathroom!! Damm I better get back to work--haha
 
Dang...you're busy.

If you were closer, I'd be happy to lend you the socket....:toothy10:
 
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