Ballast resistor and Pertronix billet distributor

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alg

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i am investigating installing the above in a 71 demon. Everything I see says to remove the ballast resistor. So I decided to see what would happen without the resistor. With the ballast resistor connected I have 12 volts with key in on, start, and accessory positions. With it disconnected I have 12 volts with the key in start position, but 0 volts in on and accessory positions. So how am I to remove the ballast resistor? No one has been able to tell me with certainty what, if any, bad consequences I may face by installing the system and simply removing the resistor. Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks
 
There are two wires coming out of the harness that go to your ballast resistor. (ign1 and ign2) usually one blue and one brown.
Tie those two wires together after they exit the harness and run your power off those.
This gives you power in the start and run positions both.

Alternatively, you can also jumper straight across the ballast terminals from one end of it to the other effectively bypassing it.

ballast%20bypass.jpg
 
Thanks. I considered joining them but was concerned I'd blow something up. The conditions I described in my initial post, are they as they should be? I mean, if the ballast wire is disconnected will that stop power in key on and accessory?
 
I solder a solid 12ga wire behind mine,and reinstall it, so it looks stock.
 
alg said:
Thanks. I considered joining them but was concerned I'd blow something up. The conditions I described in my initial post, are they as they should be? I mean, if the ballast wire is disconnected will that stop power in key on and accessory?
Click to expand...

You shouldn't have power to the ignition in accy position.(what are you calling the accy position?)
I suspect you may be calling "ignition on" the accy position?
Disconnecting the ballast should only stop power to your coil (and possibly choke if elec) and the OE ignition box.

If you have a four terminal ballast, on the harness side of it one wire to it is powered in the "key on" and the other wire on the same end of the ballast should be powered in the "Start position"
On the harness side you want to connect those two wires together and use that to power your new distributor and coil.
 
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RPMagoo said:
-- I don't understand this. -- Isn't it the same as leaving it bare -- or -- removing it completely.
Click to expand...
"Taking something out", makes an open circuit, no current path. "Adding the jumper to ballast", shorts out resistor, making near zero resistance so full current will flow, and power ignition when ignition is "on".

If you want to take it out, replace with male-male fast-on. Shown is two, made from VW connector.
Then use a 2-1/2" length of 1/2" ID heatshink to insulate and hold connection tight
20160405_145211.jpg
 
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KitCarlson said:
- "Taking something out", makes an open circuit, no current path. "Adding the jumper to ballast", shorts out resistor, making near zero resistance so full current will flow, and power ignition when ignition is "on". If you want to take it out, replace with male-male fast-on. -
Click to expand...
-- Still don't understand. -- In the picture no other wires were connected, unless I missed them.
 
RPMagoo said:
-- Still don't understand. -- In the picture no other wires were connected, unless I missed them.
Click to expand...
The ignition wires that went to ballast, are connected together with male-male jumper. The wires are typically blue/blue, and blue-brown on early cars. The idea is you can retain stock female connector parts, if you ever want stock again.
 
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Not recommended, but I connected it with the factory ballast resistor (just like the stock distributor was wired) and it seems to work alright. I was just too lazy to bypass it at the time (was on a road trip).
 
KitCarlson said:
The ignition wires that went to ballast, are connected together with male-male jumper. The idea is you can retain stock female connector parts, if you ever want stock again. -
Click to expand...
-- I realize that those wires were connected - But - It seems that connecting the 2 posts of the BR, without any other wires connected, would be no different than pulling the BR out, and placing it in the glove box. or wherever.
 
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KitCarlson said:
-- The ignition wires that went to ballast, are connected together with male-male jumper. The idea is you can retain stock female connector parts, if you ever want stock again -- .
Click to expand...
-- I guess that it is for looks, for those who care. - Myself, I like the look of a cleaner firewall. --
 
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