BB Install Questions.....

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J

jeeper

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I am finally getting ready to drop the engine in my Dart Sport.

The car is a 1974 Dart Sport that had a factory /6 in it.

I have the entire Schumacher install kit with headers.

I have modified the mounts and will cut the crossmember for op clearance today.

Here is the first question:

1. Do I need to have bolts instead of studs to install the headers? I like the studs, but not if they are going to be an issue with removing the headers later.

Thank you, and more questions to come.

ROB
 
I did a 451 stroker conversion in my 73 duster, and i used bolts. The studs are sometimes too long and the headers are a tight fit... If you need to pull them off , you might noty have enough free space to pull them to the side to come off the studs...
 
Use the bolts like Duster said for those reasons also use some thread sealer, not teflon tape, but liguid teflon as the old threaded holes go into the water jacket, but maybe you knew that.

Terry
 
After looking at some more install pics today, I can see that bolts are going to be needed for sure.

Any recommendations on bolts? My guess is typical ones will work since the flanges are so thick.

Also, does loctite or someone else make the teflon stuff?

Thank you, ROB

PS/ The goal is to have the engine in there by the end of next week.
 
I have studs on mine. 440 in a 74 Duster with Shumaker headers. It may be easier to have a mix of studs and bolts. If you have both on hand, then you are ready for whichever way works best for you. Good luck!
 
Those studs are really nasty to remove. I don't want to take the easy route now, and hate putting the headers on later with my 440.

It sounds like some of you have ran them or some of them.

So I guess the question is this:

With the engine installed and bolted down, Is it possible to R and R the headers with studs?

If they will go on with one or two, they should go on with all?

Rob
 
Heat the studs till thier cherry red,then quench em with a wet rag.They should turn out easy with vise grips.
 
jeeper said:
Those studs are really nasty to remove. I don't want to take the easy route now, and hate putting the headers on later with my 440.

It sounds like some of you have ran them or some of them.

So I guess the question is this:

With the engine installed and bolted down, Is it possible to R and R the headers with studs?

If they will go on with one or two, they should go on with all?

Rob
Click to expand...

I have to take the engine loose and jack it up to remove my headers. Having studs instead of bolts has not been the limiting factor on my car, the lack of room is what stops me.
 
I bought a stud remover today. We will try that.

One more specific question:

I have a 74 /6 crossmember. I cut the drivers side perch down, and am now ready to install.

Did I need to cut for OP clearance or what? I can find no mention of it in my instructions, but it has been awhile too since I got the kit. Something may be lost etc.

Are the only mods to the car itself just the tower on a 74?

Thank you for your help.

ROB
 
you need a certain oil pan. I went on a few sites regarding the big-block install and they list what oil pan to use to clear the steerign linkage. Also, i noticed on mine, that the oil filter touches the K-member, and after driving for a while, the filter works its way loose and it starts leaking...just something to check.
 
were di you get the kit from for the bb conversion and what k frame are you using the /6 k frame or a v8 k frame cause i am doing the same thing on my 71 dart with a 383
 
I got the kit from Schumacher (creative services), and it went into a stck 318 crossmember. I used the 400 to make my 451 stroker....so yours is the same set-up. It was a pretty easy install with the headers being the major pain...but it depends which onjes you get. I used ones from an e-body because I wanted the bigger tube headers than are offered form some companies, and didn't want to pay for TTI's. The passenger side was good, but the drivers was a pain. I am switchinf to TTI's this winter.
 
The engine is in. It really wasn't that hard and I have average resources.

It took me, a jr high student, and two freshmen about an hour total to have it bolted in. We had to move the car around etc. to get it lined up.

It wasn't that bad really, and there was actually more room than I thought.

Manual steering definately helps.

More thoughts later. I won't be able to touch it until Monday again due to work etc.

ROB
 
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