bead blast sand substitute

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just some pictures of the progress.... i sand blasted all the rusted areas that i could not reach with the wire wheel.

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To add to Leanna's concern for respirators, we use a silica based castable where I work. Silica is nasty stuff. We require our workers to wear safety glasses with sideshields, and a half mask respirator with P100 filters. This is what is required to stop the silica. We get the Willson half masks and the filters for $15 - $20 through Grainger. Don't mess with silica.
 
Yup silica sand works great for blasting. After sandblasting and working in a bodyshop since I was 18 I had a first last weekend. I was blasting my engine bay, and then using some epoxy primer. As soon as I pulled the trigger I saw the epoxy fish eye like a mad man. Never once have I had to wax and grease remove something after blasting and before painting. For whatever reason the cheap silica sand I got from Ace Hardware left a silicon film or residue on the bare metal. After wax and grease remover all was well. I use a 3m resperator made for dust particles. A regular dust mask won't be affective. It's nasty crap and will make you have a head ache you won't believe.
 
CudaChick1968 said:
As far as personal protection from silicosis, it's kind of like avoiding STDs ... any protection is better than none at all. If all you can afford is a paper filter mask, a pair of cheap sunglasses and your dad's old flannel shirt, that's better than nothing.

Contrarily, bikers say if you have a ten dollar head, then buy a ten dollar helmet.

When I have to suit up to use my "big dog" pot blaster outside (6 cubic feet a minute at 120 psi), I wear my particle filter cartridge mask with built-in goggles, leather gloves and long sleeved shirt, and wrap my hair in a towel. (I don't care about getting dirty -- that's a regular daily part of my job LOL :-D -- but I just hate having Media Hair.)
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No pictures?????
 
Nastiest part of the Silica is that it gets in your lungs and never dissolves or leaves. If you are sending it airborne, you have to wear respirators, and also think of others in the area.
 
Holey crap. That looks friggin excellent. Nice job sir! That is totally motivating me to get my other duster dissembled. I have been blasting stuff but have not tackled my undercarriage yet.

Hey, how did the undercoat come off with the sand blasting, or did you use the wire wheel on all the undercoat??
 
Rice Nuker said:
Holey crap. That looks friggin excellent. Nice job sir! That is totally motivating me to get my other duster dissembled. I have been blasting stuff but have not tackled my undercarriage yet.

Hey, how did the undercoat come off with the sand blasting, or did you use the wire wheel on all the undercoat??
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THANKS RICE!!!! a little trick from my old school gear head, my dad. i used a propane torch that the plumbers use. i just heated it up and come off like butter. you have to hold that torch there till it starts to look like a browning marshmellow. make sure you have a well vented area it gives off a really bad fumes. the bad part is i couldn't blow air directly on the area i was working on, it would blow the torch out... heres some pics. its not the greatest. my seven yr old took it with my iPhone. but you will get the idea. took me about 4 hours all together, broke up over a few days.

after i got the bulk of the stuff off i went back over it with the wire wheel. then the sand blaster in the places the wheel wouldn't get.


Let me know how your goes

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Hmmm, going to keep that in mind. Awesome idea. Some others fellows have mentioned it on a couple sites somewhere but seeing your finished product is believing.. I think there is a propane torch tip that is like a flame spreader to distribute a wider heat pattern. I may buy one if it exists. Are you using etching epoxy over that bare metal or what there? I am looking at alternatives for bare metal protection and adhesion, talked to my bud who is an awesome paint man, said etching epoxy primer is the best way to go over bare metal. Personally I have been looking at eastwood products and have not decided what to put on prior to paint and such..
:) nothing like taking off 35 years of crud and seeing bare metal ready to be coated.. Friggin awesome.. Its like for me I almost dont want to paint it, just leave it sand blasted... Eastwood has paint that looks like cast iron or cast aluminum... Even hi temp stuff cast looking paint for manifolds.. hmm.. thanks for the progress photos man..
 
Rice Nuker said:
Hmmm, going to keep that in mind. Awesome idea. Some others fellows have mentioned it on a couple sites somewhere but seeing your finished product is believing.. I think there is a propane torch tip that is like a flame spreader to distribute a wider heat pattern. I may buy one if it exists. Are you using etching epoxy over that bare metal or what there? I am looking at alternatives for bare metal protection and adhesion, talked to my bud who is an awesome paint man, said etching epoxy primer is the best way to go over bare metal. Personally I have been looking at eastwood products and have not decided what to put on prior to paint and such..
:) nothing like taking off 35 years of crud and seeing bare metal ready to be coated.. Friggin awesome.. Its like for me I almost dont want to paint it, just leave it sand blasted... Eastwood has paint that looks like cast iron or cast aluminum... Even hi temp stuff cast looking paint for manifolds.. hmm.. thanks for the progress photos man..
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to be prefectly honest. i just but some auto primer paint with rust protection from wal-mart. im sure everyeone will yell at me for using that stuff but it we $6 a can vs. walmart brand of $2.50. i did two coats of it just to make sure i got everything covered good. it will be a while before i put the actual undercoating on. i'm going to have the body work and paint done first so i can get the fencers lined up. that way when i spray all the joints, they won't get seprated when adjust the fender panels.

i'm going to start on the passager side this weekend i will let you know how it goes and some pics of course.

once again, thanks for the atto boys, it sure is labor of love cause i wont do this for a living!
 
u can get black beauty sand blasting media at menards 7 bucks @ 50lb bag & no silica to worry about get yourself some cheapo face shields and a sandblating hood from harbor freight the hood is great for undercarragie blasting , and the face sheilds work great for the areas you can stand and blast .. oh and wear a hat when not using the hood cause its gets everywhere ! and its a pain to get out of your hair ! good thing i dont have much Lol
 
Walnut shells work good too. They are non toxic but you still need some sort of respirator/mask.
 
Over here I have been trying to find black beauty slag for six months, between Tahoe and Sac. I think it doesnt exist. I am going crazy wishing I had some more high performance media to blast my undercoat off w. And I understand the crushed glass media wont damage panels basically at all.. Cant find either.. Just complaining, hoping someone in this region will chime in.. Yea, where is Menards?? :)
 
I started to use sand on my diff and found it was getting too much moisture in it. I was also trying to re-use it again so the sand wasnt going to work. I switched to glass bead #30-60 grit and it works good. IMO the glass doesnt retain as much moisture as the sand. If you want to chk to see how well the respirator is working, give your nostrils a check when done. If dirty get a better respirator. Also I would not use simple safety glasses, buy the ones that look like swim goggles that give 100% tight fit around your eyes. I bought mine from Home Depot, heres the link, btw I couldnt find a respirator that was "approved" for sandblasting http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/...artial&Ntx=mode+matchall&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber

Also here is the link for the green-blast glass

http://www.princessauto.com/air/san...-crushed-glass-50-20-35-sandblasting-abrasive

Good luck
 
This place sends me samples sometimes (RedFish is getting a couple pounds of it shortly if it hasn't already arrived). It may be an alternative for you guys who can't find it locally, though I'm sure the shipping would be expensive for large quantities.

http://www.ceroglass.com/index.asp
 
The closest thing Lowe's has around here is the playground sand that started this thread. I think you could throw dirt at rusty parts and get more results out of it than that stuff.
 
Well guys and gals, I am thinking about blasting under my engine compartment in a couple weeks, going to try this stuff over the bare metal prior to paint.. Etching epoxy primer. I read a couple posts on some sites, claimed it was solid..

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Product Info/Epoxy Primer.htm

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/contact us.htm

I just talked to them, they will ship anywhere and no shipping charge.
For 2 gallons of sprayable etching epoxy (1 to 1 mix ratio) it is 145 bucks.
That will epoxy everything I sand blast for the rest of my life.
They do primer surfacers, epoxies, clears, and some other jazz. No base colors.
 
I found a company in Sacramento that sells a bag, several bags, half pallet or full pallet of crushed recycled glass, and medium grit soda amongst other medias. Man am I happy. I used their soda thru a small sand blaster, on a carburetor (all varnish and carbon is removed from all passages, interior and exterior) and it works wonderfully.

http://gritguy.com/contact.asp

If anyone's in the sac area, they ship via a truck on a pallet or one bag at a time or you can come get it on site.

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