Bellhousing runout '65 273

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I would be much more concerned with the clutch face area than with thickness. Is it smooth, heat checked, small cracks, hard spots etc.

Good advice, thanks. I'm going to inspect both flywheels and have the machinist look at them too. I would assume he would recommend a light surfacing as well.
 
In my experience, those .500 dowels are for a Chev, they would not fit in my block. The good old mopar performance ones that i used fit perfect and they measure at .497. Those dowels from mopar performance are in my treasured special parts drawer.

I've found these after searching. Some folks on another forum I came across highly recommend them. Evidently the .500" fit too tight and are very difficult to turn once installed. These are .496 and are turnable with a locking feature.

RobbMcPerformance Bellhousing Alignment Dowels
 
eekvonzipper, You need to read post#17. I thought the same thing, and didn't understand why the FSM (factory shop manual) said to divide the runout by two. The total runout spec is .008. That means .004 plus .004 max. the runout is not measured from the centerline of the crank but the total variance of movement, left to right, as the crank is turned 360 degrees. My bellhousing is out .017 total, exceeding the .008 by more than double.


What I’m saying is there are times when you can’t correct these things because they are so far out. With what you have I send that thing is a New York second. I’ve seen OE bell housings out .060 and you correct what you can and send it.

Most scatter shields are out .035. Or more. You can only move them so far.
 
I've found these after searching. Some folks on another forum I came across highly recommend them. Evidently the .500" fit too tight and are very difficult to turn once installed. These are .496 and are turnable with a locking feature.

RobbMcPerformance Bellhousing Alignment Dowels


Those are pretty nice. I’m assuming that .021 is total. I could be wrong and then it would be .042 total.
 
I've found these after searching. Some folks on another forum I came across highly recommend them. Evidently the .500" fit too tight and are very difficult to turn once installed. These are .496 and are turnable with a locking feature.

RobbMcPerformance Bellhousing Alignment Dowels
dont really need the locking feature. just get it as close as you can and wicking locktite them from the back and all good.
 
Those are pretty nice. I’m assuming that .021 is total. I could be wrong and then it would be .042 total.

They're available in .007", .014", and .021" just like the factory offers, as indicated on page 6-7 of the FSM. .007" is used for total runout of .012" through .020"; .014" is used for .022" through .034"; and .021" would cover .036" through .052" . Again, the total runout is just that, total left to right, not just from centerline of crank.
 
What I’m saying is there are times when you can’t correct these things because they are so far out. With what you have I send that thing is a New York second. I’ve seen OE bell housings out .060 and you correct what you can and send it.

Most scatter shields are out .035. Or more. You can only move them so far.
A manual trans input shaft and brg cocked .060" at the bell house spinning at 6k rpm can't be happy and run smooth (for a long time). The measurement would be higher by the time the brg see's it. Factory tolerances were not great and they said .008" so I'd try and get closer than that. I got my Quicktime to .002" total. That's close enough.
 
A manual trans input shaft and brg cocked .060" at the bell house spinning at 6k rpm can't be happy and run smooth (for a long time). The measurement would be higher by the time the brg see's it. Factory tolerances were not great and they said .008" so I'd try and get closer than that. I got my Quicktime to .002" total. That's close enough.


Evidently you’ve never had to race in the real world. Most of this **** is off and it makes ZERO difference. Get it close. The OP is wasting his time trying to dial it in under .020 or whatever.
 
Evidently you’ve never had to race in the real world. Most of this **** is off and it makes ZERO difference. Get it close. The OP is wasting his time trying to dial it in under .020 or whatever.
1/4 mile is a long way off 50000 miles. Depends what OP is doing. Ive never felt a smooth, long lasting race car . We dont all build RACE CARS.
 
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