Ben's 1972 Dodge Dart Swinger 318

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Ben440ny

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2011
Messages
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Location
Inglewood CA
Hello All,

I'm a new member to the forum but I have been reading for a couple of years. This is such a great resource with such helpful members! Just a quick background on myself. I come from a New York Mopar family. Been working on/racing Mopars with my father and uncle for several years. See benrepair.com for pictures. Between the three of us, here is our fleet:

1953 Dodge Coronet with Red Ram Hemi (Burgundy)
1968 Dodge Dart 270 Slant 6 All Original (B5) Lil Rusty, Original
1968 Plymouth Barracuda 413 727 (Red)
1968 Dodge Dart GTS 440-6 4 Speed (Green)
1969 Dodge Dart Convertible Slant 6 All Original (B5)
1970 Plymouth Duster 340 727 drag car (Plum Crazy) H Code 11.15@122
1971 Plymouth Duster 440 727 drag car (Panther Pink) 10.76 @126
1973 Plymouth Duster 318 904 (Brown) For Sale? Very little Rust, Original

So as you can probably tell, we are pure A-Body people :razz: with 3/4 of these cars in my family for 20+ years. Anyways I move to the Los Angeles area about a year and a half ago and have been hunting for a rust free Mopar ever since. I finally found her!

Meet my 1972 Dodge Dart Swinger (318/904) Originally gold with a white vinyl top. Now red/surface rust with a little flame job on the hood haha. Got lucky with this one because she came with power steering and front power disc brakes, electronic ignition, all trim intact, turn signals on the hood, and barely a spot of real rust on her. Also, super fair price!
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So here is the list of things currently wrong with her:

Several gauges out on the dash. Dashpad cracked.

Carb seems a bit tired. Took the top off, accelerator pump seemed to be sticking, spring had a little corrosion, but overall the carb looked clean. Don't have a tach yet, so I adjusted the idle and mixture by feel. Seems to be idling a little high but at least it's no longer shutting off on me.

Nasty dent passenger side fender, needs a new turn signal as well.

Column shift linkage is loose (Took a look, got 2 broken plastic bushings on the axle that the shifter arm pivots on, also is the shifter arm supposedto be a little kinked or dead straight?) Anyone know where I can get those bushings?

Needs washer fluid reservoir. But the little pump still works!

Paint is dead, surface rust on roof where vinyl top once was.

Should I have a coolant overflow container? Did one come stock?

Trying to get her in better running driving condition, and then my plan was to move onto body work and paint. Then down the line I would hop up the little 318 with a set of 360 heads. Been reading some great articles on different combinations. My game plan is to build a moderately fast drive it anywhere car. Might even consider suspension upgrades down the line for nostalgic road racing if budget permits.

Anyways, I am looking to befriend any Mopar fanatics on the West Side of LA who know of good junkyards where I can track down parts or who know reasonably priced body guys. As you have probably guessed, being only 24, I'm on a budget. I was thinking of attempting to do 90% of the body prep work myself and then leaving it to the professionals to paint. This is my first ground up restoration so any tips would be appreciated. As much as I have learned over the years working with my pops, I am still a relative noob when it comes to doing all of the work myself. I suppose my first question would be, anyone have a chemical paint stripper to reccomend?

Thank you in advance for your help and interest. I promise my future posts will not be nearly as long winded. :D

-Ben
 
Welcome Ben, solid looking car,should be an excellent car to build to your taste. Lots of big brains on FABO for you to pick. You might want to repost on the Welcome Wagon Forum Ben so more members watching for newbies will see your post. Glad to have you aboard.
 
I look forward to watching your progress.
I was on budget so I used aircraft paint stripper to remove all the paint on my Dart. It took two and a half gallons and was a lot of work. If I wanted to completley strip a car to bare metal again I will pay to have it blasted.
 
Thanks for the tips and support guys! When my uncle did his 69 Dart Convert, he also used aircraft stripper. I'll probably go that route. After I get it down to base metal, do you think rattle can primer is my best bet or some kind of metal treatment? Been hearing bout this Ospho stuff, but I have no familiarity with it.

I'm thinking something like this for the final paint scheme, or perhaps a green, or orange...And do I go vinyl top!? Oh the decisions

1970-Dodge-Dart-Blue-Highway-61-50512-1.JPG
 
Happy Friday Mopar friends!

So, it's been a while since I've posted any updates. Here is a list of the work I have done so far:

New driver side motor mount
New Tranny Fluid
New Coolant
Installed Autometer 3 Gauge Cluster (Chrome Bracket)
Installed Sunpro Tachometer
Adjusted front torsion bars to correct ride height
Cleaned up the interior
Sanded down the rust/little scraps of vinyl on the roof to prep for primer
Adjusted Carb to get it running decent
Checked Compression (130-150 on all cylinders)

With those guages finally installed, I mustered up the guts to drive it from home in Santa Monica to work in Glendale today (25 miles). I was crusing real good at about 60 MPH on the 405 until I hit the big hill before the sepulveda pass. Power started cutting out because it seemed I was not getting fuel. Got off the highway and cruised up Sepulveda at 40 MPH without incident. The combination of higher speed and incline leads me to believe my float valve might be no good. Any thoughts? It's a stock 2 barrel. When I took it apart last, the float valve seemed to be moving just fine. Also, it should be noted my choke is a little cheesey and sometimes likes to stay closed. If I nail it, the car will ususally take a second to compose itself before the throttle catches.

Anyways, taking it to a body shop in Glendale today to get quoted. Like all of us, I am operating on a budget. Anyone have a reccomendation for body shops in/around Los Angeles that do good work for less $$$?

Some pictures:

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Hello All,

So I've been progressing slowly but surely. Had the transmission serviced and some seals replaced at a local shop. Guy did a great job and she shifts great.

I replaced my coil and wires (coil acted up on me in the heat the other day), found some parts I was missing off a junkyard dart, and I finished sanding down the roof. Applied a coat of rattle can primer to it to preserve it until I could get it to a body man.

Speaking of the body shop. I've been taking her around to various shops in LA and recieved the following quotes:

Maaco: $2400
West Coast California Auto Body: $4500-5000
Studio Auto Body $5000 but might be negotiable

As you can imagine this is downright depressing considering I was looking to get the car straight and painted for $3000. Am I being unrealistic? She's got 2 panels with dents and rust, but other than that, she's a clean car (see previous pictures I have posted). Looking to have her stripped and painted with a clearcoat.

One thing I keep hearing from body shops is: "Once I strip the car, I'll see whats undereath." So rather than be surprised, I decided to investigate a few suspect areas. I decided to sand down the passenger side rear quarter where the paint was cracking from obvious bondo. Got it down, and while I still have metal, this car definitely took a hit there at one time. Dents and pits. That, coupled with a larger dent in towards the front of the quarter and some nasty rot right behind the wheel... I am debating hanging a new quarter. Summit has them for around $250. What do you guys think? Fix what I got or go new?

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Nice car! I have the exact same car, it's just a little farther in. I would probably fix the quarters if I were you. Thanks
 
Hello All,

I've done a bad job of updating but long story short, the body work is finished on my car. I'll upload all of the pictures when I get a chance. I've aquired the dual scoops and she's ready for paint. Now it's time to pick the color. Here are my top options:

B5 blue with blackout hood treatment. I would try and get the newer B5 I've seen on the new challengers.

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Vitamin C (For a 72 of course) with blackout hood and black tail stripe.

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Or Vitamin C with no blackout hood treatment and a white tail stripe:

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I think I would be happy either way. I'm worried about the blue because sometimes it comes out dull. I'm worried about the orange because it's so loud. Also, does anyone know if Vitamin C is a pearl job? What are your opinions? Thanks!!

Here is the car primed and read to go:
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personally, i like the blue and black with the full wheel covers in the top pic. i think orange is much more overdone than the blue in my opinion........either way it will look sharp
 
I thought that first car model car picture was a cool color. with the scoops blacked out hood and stripe it looks pretty cool. My second choice would be that vitamin C
 
Thanks for the input guys! My opinion seems to change every hour haha. This hour I'm leaning towards a Pearly Orange with a white tail stripe. The first model car from earlier in the thread was listed as B5 blue, but it seems a little more vibrant. Any idea what might come close?
 
Thanks for the input guys! My opinion seems to change every hour haha. This hour I'm leaning towards a Pearly Orange with a white tail stripe. The first model car from earlier in the thread was listed as B5 blue, but it seems a little more vibrant. Any idea what might come close?

It reminds me of a Ford color Grabber blue. I'm not sure if mopar ever used a similar color. I think it would look great based on the way that model looks.
 
It reminds me of a Ford color Grabber blue. I'm not sure if mopar ever used a similar color. I think it would look great based on the way that model looks.
petty blue is the closest to grabber blue the grabber color has alot more violet in it though.:walk:
 
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