Best 318 headers with no modification?
- Thread starter ceekay
- Start date
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70DartMike
Too many projects
Dougs or TTI should require no mods, my Doug's didn't on my 340. Hookers are cheaper but you may have to smash the pipes in places to make them clear.
Dougs, tti or the schumacher tri's
Something was wrong if Dougs or tti don't fit, like engine in wrong spot, etc. Could be you got the wrong header. that's happened with both tti and dougs before.... stuff happens
Something was wrong if Dougs or tti don't fit, like engine in wrong spot, etc. Could be you got the wrong header. that's happened with both tti and dougs before.... stuff happens
+1
however something is wrong with alot of these cars its incredible that some companys actualy manage to make anything that fits good on most of the cars considering the hopeless tolerances these cars have from the factory. these old american musclecars are all over the place when it comes to tolerances and they sure didnt get better over the years. and yes that goes for most all of them regardless of brand.
Has schumacher removed the false claim about the tri y headers?
4404spd
Well-Known Member
I just put these Hooker Headers on my sons Dart last week. the only thing I had to do was grind the heads down on 4 of the header bolts other than that they clear and fit good.
Hey CK, I went with the cheapo Summit headers on my Dart Sport and they fit real good. I did have to put one tiny dent on the driver side to clear the steering shaft coupler. Other than that for 110.00 bucks i think they worked great.
What is the false claim? The more I check them out the better they look.
So there I was, looking at the engine bay just a few minutes ago..........
Is there any way I can install headers without pulling the engine? Looks like I'll have to pull the fenders and fender supports just to get to each side and avoid having to pull hoses and master cylinders and such...
Thanks,
- CK
Is there any way I can install headers without pulling the engine? Looks like I'll have to pull the fenders and fender supports just to get to each side and avoid having to pull hoses and master cylinders and such...
Thanks,
- CK
You need a jack and a piece of 2x4 or some small block of wood to put under the oil pan. You need to be able to secure the front of the car up pretty high, at least a couple of feet from the K frame to the ground.
Loosen motor mounts. Raise the engine as high as you can using the jack and wood. (REMOVE YOUR DISTRIBUTOR CAP) so you don't crush it on the fire wall. The passenger side header goes in pretty easy. The driver side is a booger to get in there, but it will go. With the engine jacked up and mounts unhooked you can move the engine from side to side slightly which will aid in getting them in there. Some headers (the cheapo ones) you will have to unhook the driver side of the cross link on the steering as it runs through the header. The headers need to go up and in from underneath.
Make sure you use Remflex or a comparable brand of gasket or you will be doing it again!!! Also if the end bolts that are currently in there aren't studs(they should be) you will need to drain some coolant out as the front and rear holes of the heads are wet.
One last thing to consider is to put a mini starter from a Dakota on while you are at it. The original can and will be a PITA to get out if you ever need to replace it.
When you get ready to do it start a thread, or bring this one back up with any questions you might have.
another thought here,instead of just lifting the engine to get the driver side header inplace,install passanger side first by lifting the engine as high as it goes,then install passangerside enginemount again and tilt the engine over towards the passangerside to instal the driverside header,this usualy works real nice. you will probably have to take the starter of and may have to reinstall it again with the headers sort of inplace.
forgot to say this it might be obvious to most of us but not all have done this so i say it anyway the headers are installed from under the car.
forgot to say this it might be obvious to most of us but not all have done this so i say it anyway the headers are installed from under the car.
K, so I have a game-plan at least... While I'm doing the headers, I could also look at doing motor mount bushings. 
Also, my car seems to have a TON of thin tubings and such, as it's a '76 with AC (lots of stupid crap, including a "smog pump")... Any risk in pinching something and thus any "be on the lookout" warnings aside from distro cap?
As for the fitting: The little blurb on Summit says the headers need to be slightly modified a few ways to accomodate the plugs. Anybody got any pics of bur work to comply with this? Also, about the "smog pump" crap... Hooker's instructional PDF says to plug these by tapping and installing set-screws? Will my '76 318 have these and thus require plugging in this manner?
Also, this:
Thanks,
- CK
Also, my car seems to have a TON of thin tubings and such, as it's a '76 with AC (lots of stupid crap, including a "smog pump")... Any risk in pinching something and thus any "be on the lookout" warnings aside from distro cap?
As for the fitting: The little blurb on Summit says the headers need to be slightly modified a few ways to accomodate the plugs. Anybody got any pics of bur work to comply with this? Also, about the "smog pump" crap... Hooker's instructional PDF says to plug these by tapping and installing set-screws? Will my '76 318 have these and thus require plugging in this manner?
Also, this:
What exactly does this mean?Hooker header fitment blurb courtesy of Summit Racing said:
Thanks,
- CK
Just want to add in here. I just removed some cheapos due to terrible fitment with my power steering, and replaced them with hedman tight tubes. The hedmans went in amazingly well and clear the power steering without an issue. Another huge plus is that I can retain the factory oil filter location without using the right angle adapter. Just loosened the motor mount bolts from the bottom, jacked the engine up a little and the both sides went in nicely from up top. Pside didn't need jacked up. I was surprised to see how much tighter they fit against the engine, too, whereas the previous ones were Damn near touching the inner fender on the Pside.
K, so I have a game-plan at least... While I'm doing the headers, I could also look at doing motor mount bushings.
Also, my car seems to have a TON of thin tubings and such, as it's a '76 with AC (lots of stupid crap, including a "smog pump")... Any risk in pinching something and thus any "be on the lookout" warnings aside from distro cap?
As for the fitting: The little blurb on Summit says the headers need to be slightly modified a few ways to accomodate the plugs. Anybody got any pics of bur work to comply with this? Also, about the "smog pump" crap... Hooker's instructional PDF says to plug these by tapping and installing set-screws? Will my '76 318 have these and thus require plugging in this manner?
Also, this:
What exactly does this mean?
Thanks,
- CK
Does you stock exhaust manifolds have around 1/2" tubing runing from one to another?
If so you will have to plug the holes in the exhaust port to use headers.
About wrapping suspension/frame.
K, so, more exhaust questions.....
What diameter pipe should I run on a currently stock 318? Was going to do straight pipe from heads to a 45 degree bend and dump out the sides right in front of the rear wheel well, with a 24" or 30" glasspack on each line.
Eventual plans are for a 4bbl, cam, and maybe compression and heads later, but that's kinda far down the road...
Thanks,
- CK
What diameter pipe should I run on a currently stock 318? Was going to do straight pipe from heads to a 45 degree bend and dump out the sides right in front of the rear wheel well, with a 24" or 30" glasspack on each line.
Eventual plans are for a 4bbl, cam, and maybe compression and heads later, but that's kinda far down the road...
Thanks,
- CK
I run 2.5" from the header back.
74DartSwinger360
The Brat Pack
Its not a chevy cant pull the inner fenders to install anything unless you want to cut it off and weld it all back on
70DartMike
Too many projects
X2.
It's easier to remove a torsion bar and install the header from under the car.
SirDan
Well-Known Member
FWIW, with the cheap headers you will either need the oil filter adapter or just use a shorty filter. You'll also need to lose some if not all of the end studs on heads, these go into your coolant passage so use sealent on the bolts. They also break off in there sometimes so be careful. You will also want to lose the old style starter and go with the newer style small starter. The headers will fit with the big old style starter but you cant get it out unless you take the headers off! You might have to add very slight dents to the tubes to get the bolts in.
you might have to dent the one tube to clear the steering coupler. Oddly the first time I installed my headers there was plenty of clearence there. Second time I installed them in the same exact car different 318 and they hit the steering coupler. Cannot figure out why. :dontknow:
check out the headman shorties they might fit your budget still but work better. There is a thread about them on here somewhere.
Id go 2.5" pipe off the headers 3" if you want to be really loud and obnoxious, although the 2.5" pipe would preform better I think. Personally id go with the 2.5"
you might have to dent the one tube to clear the steering coupler. Oddly the first time I installed my headers there was plenty of clearence there. Second time I installed them in the same exact car different 318 and they hit the steering coupler. Cannot figure out why. :dontknow:
check out the headman shorties they might fit your budget still but work better. There is a thread about them on here somewhere.
Id go 2.5" pipe off the headers 3" if you want to be really loud and obnoxious, although the 2.5" pipe would preform better I think. Personally id go with the 2.5"
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