Best balancer under $250

-
MidnightSwinger

MidnightSwinger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2013
Messages
3,035
Reaction score
3,615
Location
Woodland CA
I want to upgrade the stock balancer on my forged crank 383 while I’m upgrading pistons. The build looks like this.

74 Swinger ~3300lbs
A833
3.91 sure grip
383 10:1 comp
Mopar .528 solid
1.6 ratio roller rockers
Speedmaster victor copies
Planned 6500 rpm redline

What’s my best option for a cheap sfi balancer? I’m trying to find something at summit if I can as I have 10% off.

Summit Racing SUM-C4279 Summit Racing™ Bracket Racer SFI Harmonic Dampers | Summit Racing


Speedmaster PCE291.1067 Speedmaster Harmonic Balancers | Summit Racing
 
If it's an elastomer balancer, just get the cheapest one, because they are all about the same.
 
I might try the fluid filled chicom knock off. Crank dampers are NOT a place to skimp.

In no particular order I use:

Innovators West
Fluidamper
TCI Rattler

Please note that none of those uses an elastomer band or O rings. There is a great reason for that, regardless of how many of the elastomer type dampers are being used.

Chrysler spent a bunch of money testing dampers. It’s in the last engine book they published.
 
Rat Bastid said:
I might try the fluid filled chicom knock off. Crank dampers are NOT a place to skimp.

In no particular order I use:

Innovators West
Fluidamper
TCI Rattler

Please note that none of those uses an elastomer band or O rings. There is a great reason for that, regardless of how many of the elastomer type dampers are being used.

Chrysler spent a bunch of money testing dampers. It’s in the last engine book they published.
Click to expand...
If I truly don’t have the $5-600 for a good balancer, should I stick with the stock steel balancer?
 
I'm kinda hung with a slant 6 cause no one makes a non elastomer balancer for it. I COULD run a big block internally balanced one and remark it.
 
I've heard some guys have had to hone the ID of some of the cheap balancers due to improper sizing and/or issues with pulley alignment.

One a side note, I had to laugh at the one review on Summit for the Speedmaster balancer. Dude built an aluminum 572 hemi, but cheaped out on a Speedmaster balancer and then complained when the timing marks were off. :realcrazy:
 
mopowers said:
I've heard some guys have had to hone the ID of some of the cheap balancers due to improper sizing and/or issues with pulley alignment.

One a side note, I had to laugh at the one review on Summit for the Speedmaster balancer. Dude built an aluminum 572 hemi, but cheaped out on a Speedmaster balancer and then complained when the timing marks were off. :realcrazy:
Click to expand...
I completely ignored that review, my thoughts exactly.

I’ve seen that about the honing of the ID, I believe that is how some fluid dampers install. I think it’s even in the instructions on the better FD brands.
 
I used a fluidampner on my engine and was always at or over 8000. Very Smooth no vibrations at all . Engine had 8 years on it.

1DSCN2803.JPG
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I used a fluidampner on my engine and was always at or over 8000. Very Smooth no vibrations at all . Engine had 8 years on it.

View attachment 1716102991
Click to expand...
So, I've always wondered, can the Fliudampr fail? Have you ever seen one fail? I have not. And I mean the name brand, not a knockoff. I think if anybody has seen one fail or tore one up, you'd know about it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
So, I've always wondered, can the Fliudampr fail? Have you ever seen one fail? I have not. And I mean the name brand, not a knockoff. I think if anybody has seen one fail or tore one up, you'd know about it.
Click to expand...

Early on there were some failures but those end user induced.

Ive seen them split at the keyway because the end user didn’t measure and fit the damper. Too much press fit and they split.

The other issue I’ve seen is not enough press. With not enough press fit, the damper can’t absorb the harmonics and the crank fails. Sometimes to the point the end of the crank came off.

This was also when the chicom cranks really started being used and they had shitty quality control. So a loose fit and you got a crank failure and the damper got the blame.

I bought my first FD in 1988 and I used it until I sold my stuff off in 2006ish. I never shifted lower than 8200 and 8800 later on. Several times I’d be screwing around and I’d throw the lever at 9k. And never once did I have bearing issues.

My buddy was running his SBC and shifting his engine at 8200. He had the small FD. He never had a bearing issue even though everyone around promised us we’d be crapping rod bearings all the time. We both ran sticks so we were unloading the engine 3 times each run, plus he left about 7000 and I left between 7500 and 8000, depending on how the bite was.

All my rod bearing failures were oil timing induced.
 
MidnightSwinger said:
Alright, I went with a fluid damper from @PROSTOCKTOM

Thank you all for your input, I wish I could afford a USA made damper but I think the one Tom is sending me will work great.

Jared
Click to expand...

Damn…I forgot to mention the bad thing about the FD is it’s thicker than an OE damper and it will throw off your pulley alignment. It’s not hard to correct but you have to do it.

Unless the damper you bought has a recessed face. The newer FD’s have that and the pulleys line up like OE.

My bad not mentioning that. For some guys that’s a deal breaker. I just made my own spacers.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top