Best (easiest) fitting headers 68 Cuda 318

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If its a power steering car be careful of you choice. (did I miss where you said its power steering?)
 
He's got an automatic as one of his posts said.
And, yes the Doug's tri-Y design are equally as nice in their own way but try to get them in without pulling the engine out-it's not happening. The big difference in the TTI's is that the tubes start their bend immediately at the flange yielding a slimmer design. Doug's headers are still made the same way they were making headers 60 years ago so they're big and bulky. I still say the ONLY headers for an A-body are TTI's.

Doug's 453's are not tri-y's. And they're not any "bulkier" than TTI's. They can be installed the same way as TTI's, you need to lift the engine up about 2" and slide them in from the bottom. The front of the car has to be supported on jackstands as well, but the same goes for the TTI's. That's exactly how I installed mine. The easiest way is to install the engine with headers already installed from the bottom with the K frame.

dgh_d453-r.jpg
 
Doug's and TTI's are (imo) the two best options for his application. I just wanted him to know the differences. Doug's actually are bulkier coming off the head flange as your photo clearly shows. This is due to their old bending process. With Doug's the tubes come STRAIGHT off the flange before starting to bend vs. TTI's that come off the head flange into an immediate bend which results in a more compact design for easier installation and more space between header and inner fender. The second big difference is the TTI's are step headers and the Doug's are not. Again, the Doug's are great and I've had them on other vehicles but I prefer the TTI's when it comes to A-bodies.
 
one thing is for sure these dougs wont fit a A-body with a 440

am i right?


no cutting into fender wells..... i dont like that $^^%
 
Actually, I don't mind pulling the engine.
Never done a Mopar but plenty of Chevy's.....
I can clean and paint it...change the pan gasket, etc.....
I'm not super fast, but I can have it out in 4 hours....


:burnout:
 
What's all this TTi talk?

I thought this was settled long ago....

Doug's 453 FTW with a 20% autozone discount..

This. :sign3:

I'd take the Doug's 453's over TTI's any day. Not only on price, but fit and finish as well. They also give an extra 3/8" or so of ground clearance compared to the TTI long tube's.

Also, if you have a 4-speed you need to modify the Z-bar. That goes for both Doug's AND TTI's.

Doug's and TTI's are (imo) the two best options for his application. I just wanted him to know the differences. Doug's actually are bulkier coming off the head flange as your photo clearly shows. This is due to their old bending process. With Doug's the tubes come STRAIGHT off the flange before starting to bend vs. TTI's that come off the head flange into an immediate bend which results in a more compact design for easier installation and more space between header and inner fender. The second big difference is the TTI's are step headers and the Doug's are not. Again, the Doug's are great and I've had them on other vehicles but I prefer the TTI's when it comes to A-bodies.

Dougs are a lot less expensive and the 20% off at autozone helps a ton. Ceramic coated for $500ish or have Jegs match teh price as they've been doing and save ion tax too.

Dougs are not bulkier than a tti, have more ground clearance and are NOT tri-y. Dougs fit fine around everything, including PS, and don't have any slip joints. The power difference is non existant in most cases,
 
Actually, I don't mind pulling the engine.
Never done a Mopar but plenty of Chevy's.....
I can clean and paint it...change the pan gasket, etc.....
I'm not super fast, but I can have it out in 4 hours....


:burnout:

Sorry, I thought your op said "EASIEST". My bad. Nevermind.
 
Takes the same work to install dougs as it does tti. Actually, easier because you don't have to deal with a slip jointed pipe.

Ceramic dougs for less than the nickle tti is a no brainer. Engine compartment will be cooler with dougs as a benefit.
 
Just got my D453 ceramic coated for my 72 Duster 340. I got them for 500 with delivery....WOW Thank you Autozone .I am tired of bottoming out those dang hookers!
 
Just got my D453 ceramic coated for my 72 Duster 340. I got them for 500 with delivery....WOW Thank you Autozone .I am tired of bottoming out those dang hookers!

Ordered mine from Jegs yesterday. $502.99 out the door.

Thanks for all the good advice guys!!!!!!!!
 
Actually, I don't mind pulling the engine.
Never done a Mopar but plenty of Chevy's.....
I can clean and paint it...change the pan gasket, etc.....
I'm not super fast, but I can have it out in 4 hours....


:burnout:
Tips for pulling a small block mopar, I can usaully do it in 1 hour. Tip 1). You don't have to pull the hood off to pull the motor if ya remove the carb and keep the chain close to the intake. Tip 2). You don't have to pull the starter either if your only pulling the motor. Tip 3) If you pull the engine and change the pan gasket, be sure to throw in a new rear main seal.. these can be kind of common to leak. And if you pull the engine, I'd also tap in the front transmission seal behind the converter. Save ya from leav'n a few drips when ya park if both rear main seal and front tranny seal are new
 
Tips for pulling a small block mopar, I can usaully do it in 1 hour. Tip 1). You don't have to pull the hood off to pull the motor if ya remove the carb and keep the chain close to the intake. Tip 2). You don't have to pull the starter either if your only pulling the motor. Tip 3) If you pull the engine and change the pan gasket, be sure to throw in a new rear main seal.. these can be kind of common to leak. And if you pull the engine, I'd also tap in the front transmission seal behind the converter. Save ya from leav'n a few drips when ya park if both rear main seal and front tranny seal are new

Good tips! Thanks!

Engine is coming out after rear-end rebuild...which is starting tomorrow morning!
 
I will.admit it. My next set is definitely going to be some Doug's. These Damn hookers headers were cheap, but you get what you pay for. I can't drive over anything without dragging these Damn hookers on the ground.
 
Doug's actually are bulkier coming off the head flange as your photo clearly shows. This is due to their old bending process. With Doug's the tubes come STRAIGHT off the flange before starting to bend vs. TTI's that come off the head flange into an immediate bend which results in a more compact design for easier installation and more space between header and inner fender.

Sounds like Doug's should clear Edelbrock heads w/o having to clearance anything if they come straight out a little more before starting to bend. Anyone running that combo that can confirm?
 
Asking for easy fitting headers on an a-body is like saying "military intelligence"...

There is just no such thing in this world....

Actually hedman tight tubes drop in in 20 minutes , just hard to fab the exhaust to the collector .
 
I just put the TTI shorty's on my 74 Dart Sport with a 360 and they fit very well.
I also have their full 2 1/2" exhaust and it went in without too many problems.

The only thing that I would recommend is check that the driver side tubes don't come in contact with the cylinder head. I have edelbrock aluminum heads and the 2 center tubes hit the head at the bottom edge. I had to grind the head for clearance. I only noticed it when I had to take the headers out and saw that they flange wasn't contacting the gasket on the bottom of the ports. I don't know if it will be the same on iron heads or not.

I am building a 340 with Edelbrock heads as well and I noticed the same problem with center primary tubes of my Hedman headers hitting the head. Do you have a photo of the modification you made to the head? I would like to see what I'm in for! And maybe this is a sign that I should buy TTI headers..


See photos showing headers hitting heads (Marked with red paint pen)...
 

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So I guess the last set of headers I installed on an A-body ($79 Blackjacks) in 1987 aren't the best solution anymore? Lol
 
I'm glad some of you have had such good luck with the Dougs. They are well made and A relative bargain compared to the TTIs. The problem is they don't fit nearly as well nor are they anywhere as easy to install/ uninstall as TTI SHORTYS! My Dougs rubbed the steering arm on the passenger side and had to be dimpled on the drivers side in 2 places. After 5 years I finally replaced them with the TTI shortys and they went in like butter. I firmly believe for an A Body, no other header even comes close for correct fitment.
 
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