Best older Dodge pickup for daily use?

[318willrun]

Yeah I THINK I know what it is I want. Lol. Just checking to see if I'm way off base for what I want the truck for. I say daily, but as moper said it would be more like weekly for me as well.

My son's friend bought an '89 Ram about a year ago, 2WD, 318, auto, 8' bed, 170k miles. I've not seen it so I can't say what the overall condition is, but he says all that's wrong with it is a broken motor mount and the gear indicator on the steering wheel doesn't work. He paid $800 for it. He's thinking about selling so I'm interested if he does, but my son says if he sells he's going to ask $1400 for it.

Just an example of what can be found here I guess, unless he got really lucky on a deal. I'd be happy with something just like his but would prefer lower mileage. I'd pay accordingly too, based off his purchase price.

Craigslist here just had a 1991 Dodge D150 318 auto NO RUST clean interior and 70k miles for 2800 bucks. I mean, deals are out there but ya have to have patience and look everyday. Have cash on hand and jump on it when it's in front of it. I can buy those types of trucks here all day for 1300-1500 if a guy is willing to accept a little rust and 150k miles. But I've seen low end pricing turn into another grand after rotors, pads, exhaust, rusty brake lines fixed, etc., etc., just saying..... deals are out there, but sometimes if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is...

 

[MoparDaddy]

318/4 speed would be dynamite for towing. I would get a carved version. Spend the coin to put a 4 barrel on it and tune it right. Better capability and the same fuel mileage as a TBI setup in my experience.

 

[barbee6043]

Old school 2500 or 3500, Cummins. I wouldn't own anything but a diesel anymore. I've had 4 now.

20-25mpg average, longevity and reliability, power, no emissions.

Not sure where your at in Ohio but prices start around 2,500$ and up.

I agree. I have had 3. the body ( to me) is not as good as the 95 up ram. hard to ever wear out a cummins. but diesel is always higher than gas. fuel inj systems are expensive.
but, I had 91 2500 , 360, 2 wd drive, throttle body. ran great, gas hog, 150,000 mi, beat up bed, took while to get $1700 out of it here in Missouri. not a pretty suburb truck but always started and ran great. sold it couple years ago...
had a 88 slant 2 wd, 1500, pulled car trailer with it , went right down the road, ( ONCE I got it rolling!!!). always hoped it moved before I fryed the clutch! LOL
around here older 2 wd trucks that run are always in demand, so in the sticks, 2 wd will be lot cheaper..... I 've lived in rural MO since '79 and get by all years with 2 wd and in winter just add about 300 lb the end of bed!

 

[roccodart440]

Here it's about .25 -.35 cents more. It's just under the cost of premium fuel. Considering you are getting 10-15 MPG more in a diesel. I would think tat offsets the cost per gallon but I'm not math major.

Never had anything go wrong with a injection system on a cummins, HOWEVER I have had injector problems on one of my fords.

My wife drives a TDI and average 43-51 per tank depending on the driving. Now THAT's some mileage!!

 

[grumpuscreature]

Don't worry about a 318 being able to tow. When I was a lineman for Ma Bell I drove the companion wagon ('72 Dodge 3/4 ton with utility bed) that was 318/granny low 4 speed/Dana 60 with 4.10 locker equipped. Used it to tow the cable trailer, go to lunch, and drag the line truck out of whatever mudhole it was stuck in. The truck never broke a sweat and was as reliable as a yellow Lab, even after it spent 3 days under 8 feet of water when the garage flooded. I vote for '72-'79 long bed, 318, auto or granny 4 speed, if you can find a decent one...

 

[B-onefan]

I bought this 88 Dodge D-100 with a TBI 318/ auto for $350 at a auction. It ran but had cracked heads. I had a set of just rebuilt #302 heads and put them on it, new oil pump, timing chain, water pump and all gaskets and drove it for 3 years. Ran great, always started, but not great on gas mileage, around town. I did have to rebuild the transmission after it chewed itself up. At times I wish I had kept it, but traded it even for a 2 dr HT 72 Swinger Special, a-body 8 3/4, new Comp 8 point roll cage, New Comp Slide a Link setup, NOS taillight lenses, Complete Energy Suspension Poly kit, New BB Front motor Plate, New set of Moroso Chrome BB valve covers and few other parts. He bought all this stuff new for the car from Summit and then got a divorce.

 

[B-onefan]

Here's a picture.

 

[KosmicKuda]

There is a very cool looking Dodge pickup for sale on someone's front lawn in Medina, OH. Looks to be 80's? It's 4 wheel drive and has lettering on it from a small town fire dept. Body looks very nice (we're in Ohio after all) and is white. Have not stopped to read the info sheet on the windshield.

 

[VSTwister]

I have the patience, as I really want a good deal on one. Thanks all again who replied.

For the diesel owners...how easy do they start in cold weather?

 

[No Smog Swinger]

Get the diesel, you wont regret it.

 

[ramenth]

Personally, I like the older trucks, from the '70's and '80's especially in 4 wheel. I like the live axles and the leaf springs on both ends. Of course, you get this in later models as long as you stay with 3/4 or bigger. Then, depending on the year, it's a PITA on the front wheel bearings.

As for that, I'll throw in my anecdotal information. My '89 Ramcharger went 180,000 miles on the factory clutch and the factory alternator. I replaced all the hard parts in the cooling system (except the heater core) twice. Rear axle bearings twice. Other than that it was all routine maintenance. The only reason I parked it was because it became self changing oil. I'd put oil into the valve cover and it would leak out the rest of the seals.

These days, though, 200,000+ miles out of vehicle isn't unheard of. Fuel injection helps. No more dealing with stubborn chokes on cold weather mornings, causing cylinder wash, leading to worn rings, gas in the oil, killing the bearings.

Synthetic transmission fluids that are formulated specifically to work with the clutch material in the transmissions, no more of the one size fits most Dex/Merc in everything. Synthetic oils in the rears.

These days it's a matter of the little things. And a lot of it comes down to ergonomics. I like the dash layout in the '80's and '90's trucks. No reaching for the heater/AC controls, I could thumb control the switches easily enough with a finger on the temp and flow controls while using my thumb to control the fan at the same time. I have to reach for the ones in my '89 F150 and they don't come as intuitively. Like cab room. I can fit three people easily in a '80's/'90's Dodge where we're packed in like sardines in my F150.

Of course, like I said, I like the live axles and the leaf springs in the Dodges of the '80's/'90's. My F150 with the "I beam" split axle housing, coil springs, and four shocks up front rides better, but it's not as durable as a simple live axle/leaf spring set up. And I've never - never - been a fan of putting a control arms/half shafts in a rough field situation. I've seen too many of them break. It works,though, if you don't go into some of the places I've driven into.

 

[74Dusted]

72-74 W100, 200 or 300 for ultimate reliability.

Can't get much more simple or indestructible. Points Ignition (most of the time), NP205 Transfer Case (Bulletproof), and depending on the model (100, 200 or 300) It'll either have a Dana 44, Dana 60 or Dana 70 Front Axle and a Chrysler 8.75", Dana 60 or Dana 70 Rear Axle.

Next in line would the 1975 - 1979 W100, 200 or 300. Electronic Ignition, NP203 Transfer Case (The second strongest transfer case ever used in a regular Dodge Truck, exceeded in strength by the NP205). Axle combos are the same, except add the Chrysler 8.25" and 9.25" to the list (and remove the 8.75", which was phased out some time around late '75).


Some of the early D/W series trucks (1974 - 1979), mostly Cab & Chassis models, have frames (and springs/payload) that exceed the dimensions and strength of even a Cummins equipped truck from the later years.

 

[roccodart440]

I have the patience, as I really want a good deal on one. Thanks all again who replied.

For the diesel owners...how easy do they start in cold weather?

What's cold?

Cummins are the most cold weather friendly of all the diesels because they don't use oil to fire the injectors. They are a common rail design.

I've been -12 cold start, no plug in, no issues...

If everything is working properly there won't be a problem. No different than a gas engine.

Get the diesel, you wont regret it.

 

[VSTwister]

What's cold?

Cummins are the most cold weather friendly of all the diesels because they don't use oil to fire the injectors. They are a common rail design.

I've been -12 cold start, no plug in, no issues...

If everything is working properly there won't be a problem. No different than a gas engine.

Northeast Ohio cold. "Normal" winters it doesn't go below zero, but it does happen. Last year was particularly colder and from the summer we had I expect about the same.

I have a friend who drives a Ford E450 Ambulance (for football tailgating) and he has to keep an engine block heater on it the night before come December cold nights. Now is that apples to apples with Cummins diesel? I don't know I'm even drawing a blank on what motor his Ford even has, just know it's a diesel. And I've heard this from others I know with diesels, but again typically Fords.

 

[roccodart440]

Northeast Ohio cold. "Normal" winters it doesn't go below zero, but it does happen. Last year was particularly colder and from the summer we had I expect about the same.

I have a friend who drives a Ford E450 Ambulance (for football tailgating) and he has to keep an engine block heater on it the night before come December cold nights. Now is that apples to apples with Cummins diesel? I don't know I'm even drawing a blank on what motor his Ford even has, just know it's a diesel. And I've heard this from others I know with diesels, but again typically Fords.

I had 2 fords so depending on the year that may be normal or not normal for his ford. pre-2003 that is abnormal. 2003-2012 normal. The 6.0 was the biggest POS ever made. The 7.3 is an International T444 engine. They are cold weather friendly. Cummins to Ford, NO not apples to apples at all. Here's why....

Ford, V8, smaller pistons, oil fired injectors, less fuel capability. So what this means is that when it gets cold, the oil gets cold and doesn't move as well to fire the injectors. Also, you need fuel to get them lit, especially in the cold.

Cummins, Straight 6, same cubes, Bigger pistons, common rail, high pressure fuel, way more fuel delivery capability. Oil functions the same as a gas engine, just for lubrication.

Plugging in is nice for gas or diesel as it's better for the engine and you get heat in the vehicle quicker.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I like the 80s models with the slant six and 4 speed OD. People scoff at them for towing, but the truth is, they will two fairly easily. Dodge put the slants in trucks as big as D700 dump trucks and they did just fine. Not the fastest out there but they did fine.

 

[VSTwister]

I like the 80s models with the slant six and 4 speed OD. People scoff at them for towing, but the truth is, they will two fairly easily. Dodge put the slants in trucks as big as D700 dump trucks and they did just fine. Not the fastest out there but they did fine.

Good to know, thanks. I was interested enough to Google Dodge D-series dump trucks and came up with a site that shows the /6 was available up to D500 size.

http://www.sweptline.com/hist/bigtrucks.html

 

[Jarlaxle]

Northeast Ohio cold. "Normal" winters it doesn't go below zero, but it does happen. Last year was particularly colder and from the summer we had I expect about the same.

I have a friend who drives a Ford E450 Ambulance (for football tailgating) and he has to keep an engine block heater on it the night before come December cold nights. Now is that apples to apples with Cummins diesel? I don't know I'm even drawing a blank on what motor his Ford even has, just know it's a diesel. And I've heard this from others I know with diesels, but again typically Fords.

1994 or older: indirect injection 6.9 or 7.3, fair cold starter. My 92 struggled below ~15 degrees.
1994-2003: 7.3 PowerStroke, good cold starter UNLESS the glow plugs/controller are FUBAR'd or the rings are going (think: 300,000+ miles).
2003.5-later: 6.0 PSD, all-around crap.

 

[barbee6043]

ya can't beat a Cummins! ask those that have them????!!!!

 

[roccodart440]

1994 or older: indirect injection 6.9 or 7.3, fair cold starter. My 92 struggled below ~15 degrees.1994-2003: 7.3 PowerStroke, good cold starter UNLESS the glow plugs/controller are FUBAR'd or the rings are going (think: 300,000+ miles).2003.5-later: 6.0 PSD, all-around crap.

ya can't beat a Cummins! ask those that have them????!!!!

Spot on both counts and comparing a slant six to a Cummins is like comparing a big block dart to a Yugo.... literally.

 

[barbee6043]

I like the 80s models with the slant six and 4 speed OD. People scoff at them for towing, but the truth is, they will two fairly easily. Dodge put the slants in trucks as big as D700 dump trucks and they did just fine. Not the fastest out there but they did fine.

I agree with rusty, I had an 80's super s ix slant 1500, ( last year for the slant, 87 or 88??).... I pulled a 18 ft car trailer, usually with a B body. pulled it fine in these low hills and semi flat ground, ONCE I got it rolling!! I was between cummins, before the cummins I had chevy 3500 454's, great pulling trucks before the cummins but gas hogs needless to say.
for long distance hauling, longevity, ya can't beat a cummins. for mostly short hauls and general driving, the 80's slant would be a good choice.

 

[VSTwister]

For what I'm in need of mostly, the /6 or 318 2WD will suit me. I found an '87 D150 near me, long bed w/318 auto (don't know yet if 3 spd or 4 spd OD). Has over 100k miles, looks fairly rust free but won't know for sure until I see it in person. I believe this is the last year or second to last year for carbureted. Which is probably ok, I was thinking I wanted 89-93 EFI but if those have issues it could get expensive.

The catch is it has overheating issues of which the seller states it needs a heater core. From what I know these are usually buried in the dash and a real b*tch to get to on most vehicles. But how hard on an '87 Dodge truck? A new core costs $50 at advance auto so cost is not an issue.

Update: the truck is sold already. wish people would take their ads down then. Probably shouldn't be surprised, it was only $2k and looked pretty clean. That's something for a 27 year old truck in Ohio.

 

[MoparDaddy]

87 started the TBI models

 

[VSTwister]

I ended up buying my son's friend's truck. It's an '88 D100, 318 TBI w/904 and long bed. Wish it had OD as the rear gear seems pretty steep, but it'll suit my needs in the short term. Body on it is pretty darn clean for searching in Ohio/PA for a truck. It runs and starts great, but it has lots of other little minor issues to work out. I'm so-so on it right now, but could be a fun side project (except that I don't really have time or money for that lol).

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

That is a good start. I had a simular 90 318 TBI 318 club cab. I got tired of shifting the Granny OD trans or I would probably still own it. All you need to do is service the truck and go thru it to check on how well brakes, suspension, wheel bearings , etc are.