Best reasonably priced wheels that are true

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Mopar to ya

Mopar to ya

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I am thinking of changing wheels on my Dart. I put two new tires on the front this weekend and they wants 3.5 oz and 5.0 oz inside and out on the first wheel. They weren't expensive and they were available locally when I needed them, and they looked good. They were no a high end wheel by any means, but they have served pretty darn well. I am looking for a stronger, more true wheel that will stand up to the street and track. I like the Weld Draglites, but don't know if I can drop $1000 on wheels, even if I sell my old wheels. Anyone have any good ideas?
 
Are you sure that the wheel is the problem and not the tire? I had some tire that I bought at Walmart that took weights like that, I had them remove them and put on a different brand.
 
How about these $120 shipped each..

[ame]http://m.ebay.com/itm/231136532033?nav=SEARCH[/ame]
 

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Mopar to ya said:
I am thinking of changing wheels on my Dart. I put two new tires on the front this weekend and they wants 3.5 oz and 5.0 oz inside and out on the first wheel. They weren't expensive and they were available locally when I needed them, and they looked good. They were no a high end wheel by any means, but they have served pretty darn well. I am looking for a stronger, more true wheel that will stand up to the street and track. I like the Weld Draglites, but don't know if I can drop $1000 on wheels, even if I sell my old wheels. Anyone have any good ideas?
Click to expand...

Try de beading the tire and rotating it on the wheel 180 degrees. Most brands will have a red or yellow dot on the tire, which I think was meant for marking weight. If those are present, position the dots directly across (opposite) from the valve stem.

See how that does.
 
It's not the tires. I had the same problem with my old set that still had 8/32nds left. I went new BFG Radial TA again because my line locks wouldn't release a few weeks ago and I pushed my car across an intersection with the front wheels locked. It didn't exactly flat spot the tires, but there were definite rough spots. These tires are balancing the same way. When I take off my rear wheels and put on the ET Streets and their wheels, it is so much smoother. I can balance the wheels, but that won't make them any less out of round.
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I have never heard of that brand of wheel, ProStocker273. Are they good, and more importantly, strong? Also, I have rear disc brakes and the offset and backspace are very important. There is no backspace info.
 
Have you actually checked out of round? Jack the car up, use the red straw in a WD40 can near the rim as a fixed point, rotate wheel to check for bends, OOR, wobble, etc?

They can be true and still be OOR, and that can apply to any wheel.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Try de beading the tire and rotating it on the wheel 180 degrees. Most brands will have a red or yellow dot on the tire, which I think was meant for marking weight. If those are present, position the dots directly across (opposite) from the valve stem.

See how that does.
Click to expand...


When I used to hand mount my tires(OK, use the Harbor Freight tire mounter) I would rotate the tire on the rim before airing it up, a cheap balancer will often get you where you want to be. Often I could get away with no weights or a very small weight.
 
Okay, not to get off track. I know it is my rims. I work in a shop. This is what I do for a living. The question I was looking for the answer for was what are good, strong reasonably priced rims. Any opinions on the original question?
 
The wheels come in a 4.5 backspace which works good in a bodies. The hot rod an protouring guys run these wheels. The quality looks great and I haven't found one bad review on them. How strong do you need? Doing wheelie? Jd wheels has a halibrand replica too that looks sweet and is probably a little stronger. Summit racing has there own wheels that are around the same price as the jd wheels that alot of guys race with that should fill your needs as well.
 
The summit quick 8's are a visual clone to the weld draglites. (they have a prostar version too.

i have the summit quick 8's on the front of my car, and welds on the rear, and no one would ever know the diff besides the fact that they don't have the dual pattern drilled. they're cast aluminum, not billet...so thats the cost savings. pretty nice buy, they didn't take much weight to balance. still fairly lightweight.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...playPrice&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=quick 8
 
The 4.5 backspace, -22 offset is what I use on the rear, and about a 3.5 backspace -13 offset on the front. I like the look of those JD wheels, too. I just have never heard of them, and I love the price. Oh, and no wheelies .... yet. I'm working on that.
 
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