Best sort of roller rockers

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zanderzone

zanderzone

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I'm after opinions on what are the best sort of roller rockers to buy.

I have a 383 stroked to 496 with a hydraulic roller.
Currently runs 11.4 @ 118mph
I want to replace the 440 source ones with something a bit better.

Cheers

Dave
 
zanderzone said:
I'm after opinions on what are the best sort of roller rockers to buy.

I have a 383 stroked to 496 with a hydraulic roller.
Currently runs 11.4 @ 118mph
I want to replace the 440 source ones with something a bit better.

Cheers

Dave
Click to expand...

PRW makes some real nice stainless ones. They have bronze bushings where some other brands do not. When it comes to rockers, I want strength everytime above a light rocker. I absolutely DETEST aluminum rockers. If you run them, you're askin for trouble sooner or later. You asked for opinions....that's mine.
 
I like the Comp Cams Pro Magnum rockers. They are not aluminum.
 
I would go with Hughes roller rockers,best for the buck.
There are better but more money.
I would stay away from the cheap one ,wast of money.
Have a couple set sitting on the shelf.
 
prw are nice.

as for aluminum....I've been running mine on the street for over 5 yrs.
needle bearing roller tip aluminum rockers that are 'set up right' work great.

But stay away from proform!.

hughes,comp,prw,harland,crane,ohio...all good
 
Dove... ie Indy/Hughes work well with 600 lbs open.
 
vitamindart said:
harland sharp , have them on my 493 with a .700 lift roller no problems
Click to expand...
I agree...if I had to do it all over I would go with the Harland Sharp $600.00 ones....right now I am running the $350.00 ones from 440 Source they have needle bearings....all that I don't like is they are a little noisy...
 
I have not heard one bad thing from the Hughes roller rockers. I have a set on my 408 small block, and am very impressed.

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http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...a2VyIEFybXMgJiBBY2Nlc3Nvcmllcw==&partid=24530
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
what's wrong with the 440 source rockers?
Click to expand...


Cheap chinese crap , more than one person has had the axle holding the roller at the valve tip break and when the roller comes out the rocker can cause you to drop a valve .
 
JohnRR said:
Cheap chinese crap , more than one person has had the axle holding the roller at the valve tip break and when the roller comes out the rocker can cause you to drop a valve .
Click to expand...

I read one of those threads, and came to the conclusion that the guy assembling the motor didn't know what he was doing and did NOT center the rockers to the valve tip with shims/spacers [which you almost ALWAYS have to make yourself] which led to the rocker body catching the valve tip, with the roller hitting the retainer and ...pop went the locks....the rest is history.

If I remember right, he had more than a rocker and dropped valve going on.
It was a push rod and adjuster or some other crap...

who knows, there sum who can read, and some who can't.
some who can pay attention, and some who not.

some who've had success...and some who do not.

hmmm...well at least the ohio rockers haven't let me or anyone else down, or they ain't talking bout it..
 
or was it that guy did not check retainer to rocker clearance and therefore rocker-retainer contact caused the locks to be ejected and the valve to drop and then get beat upward again into the retainer thats being launched by and with the spring , then theres the rocker tip in the way

hmmm....
 
I have the cranes with 625 solid lift cam and somewhere around 220 on the seat pressures, a roller cam sure takes a lot of strain off of any rocker arm but the main thing is to have the valve train geometry set up correctly. We have run cranes on a chevy with 750 valve lift but they tend to break often unless you use the Jessle rockers on a shaft.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
or was it that guy did not check retainer to rocker clearance and therefore rocker-retainer contact caused the locks to be ejected and the valve to drop and then get beat upward again into the retainer thats being launched by and with the spring , then theres the rocker tip in the way

hmmm....
Click to expand...

Neither of your 2 excuses defending cheap chinese crap rockers can cover up for the axle at the rocker tip for breaking , they break because of poor process that makes them brittle.
 
JohnRR said:
Neither of your 2 excuses defending cheap chinese crap rockers can cover up for the axle at the rocker tip for breaking , they break because of poor process that makes them brittle.
Click to expand...

excuses???
I don't make the damn things.lol


imo-The only thing 'poor'' is your attitude towards less expensive products.

I've been running these... what you call ''cheap chinese crap'' rockers for yrs now with NO ISSUE besides a lil clearencing at the retainer, doesn't bother me 1 bit to fiddle a lil.


remember that guy dropped the valve after 2 blocks of driving!!!

meanwhile the op has been running'em for how long?

I don't trust everyones judgement, which is why you are entitled to not trust or believe mine, but I really think the guy had NO IDEA how to setup the rockers and what to check for....


tell us what the spring diameter was on those when he dropped a valve??
anything 1.50 or better is gonna hit a wide body aluminum rocker of this type.
 
I think he dropped the valve because the valve stems are 11/32" and he did not pay attention to that when he changed the locks and retainers...I'm a cheap bastard on my build and I have the 440 Source 1.6 rockers and other than being a little noisy they have worked for me....if I built a 520 stroker I would go with the Harland Sharps or Hughes rockers...
 
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