roccodart440
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for those prices i'd go 440.
big block swap stick or faq?
- Thread starter connerray
- Start date
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Purple Haze
Well-Known Member
440
nitrojunkee
Well-Known Member
If I had it to do all over again, I'd go with a low deck stroker. Mostly because of the lack of room in an A-body/BB swap. But with your situation, I'd go 440 over the 413.
roccodart440
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X2 except I might build a stroked RB depending on what's around at the time of the build. Either way she'll be a stroker.
72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
Really depending on the year and if you plan to rebuild. Between the 440 and 413 you may come out with same about of power. Is the 440 a low compression version?
nitrojunkee
Well-Known Member
Not to get off of the OP's post... But that's why I built this 496" Wedge. I already had the 440 and it magged out and sonic checked OK. Went out to .040 and bought a K1 4.150 crank. I used it because it's what I had. I also already had the Procharger ;)
this is a very easy job if you're using a motor plate and fenderwell headers.( my self i'm not a big fan of the fender well headers but they are fast and easy to put on and can usually find a used set cheap) I have done this many times for friends and 4 of my own.and have done it in less time than most of them can put the small block in.using the drive shaft and wiring from the small block..put your motor plate on motor set in the stock tranny mount.put your v8 shaft in.hook the wiring up headers on.and I have used the small block rad.if it good and clean.you will have to either reroute or bend your brake lines for the headers.and I usually put some kind of heat shield on the lines..and I would go with an 8 3/4 rearend the 7 1/4s don't last long.but it is funny to hear them get torn up.just be close to home when you do it
ops:...the last one I did was a buddy was running in the points at our local track and hang the guts out of his small block on saturday night at 9;00 pm. took to my house put one of my basicly stock 440s in (509 cam & springs torker intake 750 dp.heads milled 40 and gasket matched)using his 3600 verter (went to 3800 behind the big block)with 456 gears.and the first pass down the track was at 12:30 the next day.. was a 1170 @115.the small block was running 12.20s.just trying to help you will like the big block especially when you drop her in high gere and she starts to to quiver and still pulling like the budweiser horse team.OOOOOOO dammit!!! boy do I miss that............Artie
ops:...the last one I did was a buddy was running in the points at our local track and hang the guts out of his small block on saturday night at 9;00 pm. took to my house put one of my basicly stock 440s in (509 cam & springs torker intake 750 dp.heads milled 40 and gasket matched)using his 3600 verter (went to 3800 behind the big block)with 456 gears.and the first pass down the track was at 12:30 the next day.. was a 1170 @115.the small block was running 12.20s.just trying to help you will like the big block especially when you drop her in high gere and she starts to to quiver and still pulling like the budweiser horse team.OOOOOOO dammit!!! boy do I miss that............Artieconnerray
Well-Known Member
I'm not 100% sure on year. I won't have the cash till Friday and already bug the guy twice. There's 3 or 4 440s around here from 325-500.
And 1 or 2 400s
1 413
1 383
An several motor homes with the not so liked big blocks.
As for a rebuild,
I will pull the heads before I buy it and check the bores as there isn't any machine shops around close that I know of.
Bearings will be changed
Cam springs and thinest head gasket I can find
Good carb and intake
Mabey a little port matching.
That's basicly it unless a used stroker kit comes up for sale dirt cheap
And 1 or 2 400s
1 413
1 383
An several motor homes with the not so liked big blocks.
As for a rebuild,
I will pull the heads before I buy it and check the bores as there isn't any machine shops around close that I know of.
Bearings will be changed
Cam springs and thinest head gasket I can find
Good carb and intake
Mabey a little port matching.
That's basicly it unless a used stroker kit comes up for sale dirt cheap
BIGDART72
Active Member
IF i were you, here what i would do, get your hands on one of them 440's, put some quality parts in it. Scour bbd, there is more info there on the subject then anywhere IMO, read what godfatherofchry said... he right on the money...you will like the big block especially when you drop her in high gere and she starts to to quiver and still pulling like the budweiser horse team.OOOOOOO dammit!!!
greazerlou
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Hello there... What youre trying to do is suuuuuuuper easy IF you get started off right.
Im almost done with my 440 - '71 Duster and its been an absolute piece of cake install. This is actually my 3rd one and its it isnt easier because of how many times ive done it, its easier because of all the little parts that used to be hard to come by that you can now just order right out of a catalog nowadays. The first 2 times I did this swap were a nightmare because I tried piecing everything together... big mistake!!!
So heres my project and what ive done JUST WITH REGARDS TO THE ACTUAL ENGINE SWAP, nothing else....
1. starting point:
Buy a complete, running donor car!!! I bought a '66 New Yorker off Craigslist for $500... 440/727/8.75 rear end, A/C, ps, power brake car of course... interior trashed, body all rusted out but very good running condition. If youre going with an automatic, make sure you buy a '66 and later car because the pre '66 727s have a troublesome rear output section and they dont make aftermarket shifters for the early trannys so watch out if you plan on using a B&M or equivalent shifter.
2. Pick the car you want to build...
Mine is a 1971 Duster (/6 car, no motor or tranny, non a/c, non ps car) - got it off Craigslist for $600.
3. Buy all your conversion parts 1st... I got a complete Schumacher conversion package and I added a shim kit & 727 tranny mount. Total cost for that was $1100
4. Since my motor came with ps & ac, I had to order a complete pulley set for a non ac, non ps car for 3 reasons. First, I aint runnin' ac or ps on my car. Second, even if I did, the stock location of the ac compressor on my particular motor wouldnt let the hood close anyway. And 3rd & most important, the triple belt pulley set didnt leave enough room beween the front of the motor and my electric fan/shroud setup. This is where a lot of people get stuck because back in the day youd have piece together the correct, single sheave pulley set to make the set up work which was a major PITA if you didnt score a complete set. This time I simply called 440 Source, ordered a reproduction, single-sheave pulley set for a non ac, non ps 440 and presto bango, done deal. All you need is a single groove crank pulley, single groove water pump pulley, and alternator spacer & bolt kit and the belt to match. 440 Source has all that stuff in stock, total was either $138, $148 or $168 (i dont have the receipt handy @ the moment).
5. Cooling system...
A lot of guys on here get super complicated & expensive with their cooling and you really dont need to. I went a little on the expensive side just because im going to be running my car @ my local 1/8 mile track on Thursday nights and I also like to head out on long road trips. But ill be the 1st to say, what I did was definitely overkill but here we go. The mounting brackets on the New Yorkers radiator (or any radiator really) dont allow the radiator to just drop right in. I removed the mounting brackets off of it, set the radiator flush against the core support, placed the brackets back against the core support & radiator, marked the new location on the radiator and had them welded back on. From there its just a matter of drilling new mounting holes in the core support and locking it in with some good hardware. After that, go to your local parts house, mix n match yourself a set of hoses and your done.
6. Fan setup
Like I said, I went a little overboard here purely out of personal preference. I had a local fab shop make me an aluminum shroud with dual electric fans but you really dont need all that. My 1st 2 swaps, all I used was a solid-mounted 7 blade fan and a properly fitting fan shroud (just have to make sure the spacer used puts the blade 1/2 in & 1/2 out of the edge of the shroud).
And thats pretty much it as far as getting the motor & tranny in. Like I said super simple. Just make sure that youre donor car has no mechanical issues and your swap should be easy peasy. If youre donor car does have mechanical or maintenance issues, TAKE CARE OF THEM BEFORE YOU START TAKING IT APART!!!! You dont want to start trounleshooting an in issue in a cramped engine bay when you can do it in the original car, that way youre sure of where youre at before you start bolting everything in to the Duster. I had my radiator rodded out, switched to electronic ignition, rebuilt the carb & replaced the alternator before the New Yorker ever came apart, that way I knew everything was running good and working together properly before anything came apart. Once the motor and tranny did come out, i replaced the freeze plugs and serviced the tranny (easier to do out of the car) and put a water hose to the engine block and had a ton of black, sooty, muddy stuff come outta there. Not good for water flow!!! So thats pretty much it, make the donor car is mechanically sound before doing the transplant and you should be fine.
After all that, its just matter of getting a driveshaft made and swapping in whatever rear end youre going to use which im sure you can figure out.
If you want, shoot me your email address @ [email protected] and ill send you pics or answer questions to the best of my ability. Good luck man!
Im almost done with my 440 - '71 Duster and its been an absolute piece of cake install. This is actually my 3rd one and its it isnt easier because of how many times ive done it, its easier because of all the little parts that used to be hard to come by that you can now just order right out of a catalog nowadays. The first 2 times I did this swap were a nightmare because I tried piecing everything together... big mistake!!!
So heres my project and what ive done JUST WITH REGARDS TO THE ACTUAL ENGINE SWAP, nothing else....
1. starting point:
Buy a complete, running donor car!!! I bought a '66 New Yorker off Craigslist for $500... 440/727/8.75 rear end, A/C, ps, power brake car of course... interior trashed, body all rusted out but very good running condition. If youre going with an automatic, make sure you buy a '66 and later car because the pre '66 727s have a troublesome rear output section and they dont make aftermarket shifters for the early trannys so watch out if you plan on using a B&M or equivalent shifter.
2. Pick the car you want to build...
Mine is a 1971 Duster (/6 car, no motor or tranny, non a/c, non ps car) - got it off Craigslist for $600.
3. Buy all your conversion parts 1st... I got a complete Schumacher conversion package and I added a shim kit & 727 tranny mount. Total cost for that was $1100
4. Since my motor came with ps & ac, I had to order a complete pulley set for a non ac, non ps car for 3 reasons. First, I aint runnin' ac or ps on my car. Second, even if I did, the stock location of the ac compressor on my particular motor wouldnt let the hood close anyway. And 3rd & most important, the triple belt pulley set didnt leave enough room beween the front of the motor and my electric fan/shroud setup. This is where a lot of people get stuck because back in the day youd have piece together the correct, single sheave pulley set to make the set up work which was a major PITA if you didnt score a complete set. This time I simply called 440 Source, ordered a reproduction, single-sheave pulley set for a non ac, non ps 440 and presto bango, done deal. All you need is a single groove crank pulley, single groove water pump pulley, and alternator spacer & bolt kit and the belt to match. 440 Source has all that stuff in stock, total was either $138, $148 or $168 (i dont have the receipt handy @ the moment).
5. Cooling system...
A lot of guys on here get super complicated & expensive with their cooling and you really dont need to. I went a little on the expensive side just because im going to be running my car @ my local 1/8 mile track on Thursday nights and I also like to head out on long road trips. But ill be the 1st to say, what I did was definitely overkill but here we go. The mounting brackets on the New Yorkers radiator (or any radiator really) dont allow the radiator to just drop right in. I removed the mounting brackets off of it, set the radiator flush against the core support, placed the brackets back against the core support & radiator, marked the new location on the radiator and had them welded back on. From there its just a matter of drilling new mounting holes in the core support and locking it in with some good hardware. After that, go to your local parts house, mix n match yourself a set of hoses and your done.
6. Fan setup
Like I said, I went a little overboard here purely out of personal preference. I had a local fab shop make me an aluminum shroud with dual electric fans but you really dont need all that. My 1st 2 swaps, all I used was a solid-mounted 7 blade fan and a properly fitting fan shroud (just have to make sure the spacer used puts the blade 1/2 in & 1/2 out of the edge of the shroud).
And thats pretty much it as far as getting the motor & tranny in. Like I said super simple. Just make sure that youre donor car has no mechanical issues and your swap should be easy peasy. If youre donor car does have mechanical or maintenance issues, TAKE CARE OF THEM BEFORE YOU START TAKING IT APART!!!! You dont want to start trounleshooting an in issue in a cramped engine bay when you can do it in the original car, that way youre sure of where youre at before you start bolting everything in to the Duster. I had my radiator rodded out, switched to electronic ignition, rebuilt the carb & replaced the alternator before the New Yorker ever came apart, that way I knew everything was running good and working together properly before anything came apart. Once the motor and tranny did come out, i replaced the freeze plugs and serviced the tranny (easier to do out of the car) and put a water hose to the engine block and had a ton of black, sooty, muddy stuff come outta there. Not good for water flow!!! So thats pretty much it, make the donor car is mechanically sound before doing the transplant and you should be fine.
After all that, its just matter of getting a driveshaft made and swapping in whatever rear end youre going to use which im sure you can figure out.
If you want, shoot me your email address @ [email protected] and ill send you pics or answer questions to the best of my ability. Good luck man!
68dodge
Well-Known Member
Do what greazerlou said. Its easy with Shumaucher parts. I have done a few of these also. Then just have fun with it.
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