Big block Trouble in little China

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Rassnasty82

Rassnasty82

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Ok, been battling this header swap on my 383 in my 69 barracuda. Replaced the power steering with manual, ended up having to slightly dent the bottom of one of the tubes for the pitman arm to work. Purchased the TTI modified z bar and found out it was too short so I purchased the ball stud extension kit from Brewers performance. Well guess what, it doesn’t align correctly and my original z bar won’t work with the headers. I’m at a loss and not sure if I need to have the TTI bar extended so it will work in the location that the original was in or what? I swear I keep getting all these goofy issues.
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That z bar isn't anywhere near the right one. The angles on it don't even match up.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That z bar isn't anywhere near the right one. The angles on it don't even match up.
Click to expand...
My estimate is the guy I got the car from swapped in the motor himself and modified one to fit with the stock manifolds. If I use that ball stud extender it puts the zbar at a 35 degree angle from frame rail ball stud. If that helpa
 
RustyRatRod said:
That z bar isn't anywhere near the right one. The angles on it don't even match up.
Click to expand...
It worked well before the headers, so my guess is if I can extend the TTI z bar to the same length it should work? I wish it was as easy as just buying the right one
 
Rassnasty82 said:
It worked well before the headers, so my guess is if I can extend the TTI z bar to the same length it should work? I wish it was as easy as just buying the right one
Click to expand...

The new z bar worked?
 
Can you show us the ball stud extender your using?

Stock bell or blow proof? Which bell is it? There are 11" and 10.5".
 
Rassnasty82 said:
Ok, so what does that mean? I will have to modify the z bar or the frame rail position?
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That means only the 10.5" bellhousing will fit in the A bodies with little to no mods. What bellhousing do you have? That might be the problem.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That means only the 10.5" bellhousing will fit in the A bodies with little to no mods. What bellhousing do you have? That might be the problem.
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I measured from back of bell hosing and it looks like 11 inches. So will it be easier to modify the frame rail ball stud or replace the bell housing?
 
10.5 or 11 is the diameter of the flywheel.
At this point you could count the teeth on the flywheel 130 vs 143 or slide the trans back and look at the numbers on bellhousing.
 
Rassnasty82 said:
I measured from back of bell hosing and it looks like 11 inches. So will it be easier to modify the frame rail ball stud or replace the bell housing?
Click to expand...

"I" would get the right bellhousing. You'll be forever modifying if you don't, I believe.
 
sireland67 said:
10.5 or 11 is the diameter of the flywheel.
At this point you could count the teeth on the flywheel 130 vs 143 or slide the trans back and look at the numbers on bellhousing.
Click to expand...
Ok I’ll count the teeth, and report back. I feel like finding another bell hosing is going to be more expensive than just going to hydraulic clutch which would eliminate having the z bar all together
 
Rassnasty82 said:
Ok I’ll count the teeth, and report back. I feel like finding another bell hosing is going to be more expensive than just going to hydraulic clutch which would eliminate having the z bar all together
Click to expand...

Aint hotrodding a mopar fun ?!
 
So it would appear that the previous owner really tried to make what he had work so he moved the location of the framrail ball stud over by an inch. I believe i can have the plate rewelded in the correct location pretty easily and that should allow the bellhousing extension to line up with the frame rail and use the TTI z bar as it was intended. i will let yall know how it works and share some photos in case someone else runs into this problem
 
If you have the ability to cut and weld I'd customize the z bar.

If you can get the z bar arms in line with the clutch pedal rod and clutch fork rod everything will work fine. These old mopars don't like misalignment in the clutch linkage at all. If you are fighting misalignment it is possible to replace the pivot pins in the clutch linkage with heim joints but that is a big job is the dash isn't apart.

As said if you have a 143 tooth flywheel you will be fabricating. 10.5 and you will probably still be fabricating lol.
 
Rassnasty82 said:
Ok I’ll count the teeth, and report back. I feel like finding another bell hosing is going to be more expensive than just going to hydraulic clutch which would eliminate having the z bar all together
Click to expand...

Boy, that might be the best idea yet. Hydraulic clutches are really nice later on when your knees start to give you trouble. I've been really blessed so far, as mine are still in good shape. That right there might be the best idea. It'll save a ton of room, too. Don't forget about the cable type clutch conversions, too, such as the Fox Rustang stuff. It can be just as good.....and sometimes cheaper.
 
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