bigger master cylinder with more fluid movement?

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Backtobasics

Backtobasics

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1976 Dart Lite. /6 Manual drum brakes
9" drums on rear of 7.25 rear axle.
10" drums on front.

When I bought the car I knew I would be giving the brakes a once-over before driving. The linings and hardware on front were NEW. The front hoses were terrible, no outer rubber left. The bleeder on driver front cylinder was broken off, so I replaced BOTH front wheel cylinders.

So we have replaced both front wheel cylinders, both front brake hoses, and driver rear wheel cylinder (passenger side next, but it is not leaking like the driver side was).

We have bled front and rear. I still have to double pump to get ANY pressure.

Does anyone know of a manual brake master cylinder that has more "pressure" or "volume" to be able to expand all 4 wheel cylinders adequately?

I am dying to start driving this car, but I cannot in good conscience put it out on the road and endanger myself, and everyone else with the brakes as they are.
 
how are you bleeding it? was the master dry? you might need to bench bleed the master first. it can be done in the car.
 
Master cylinder was never dry but we are bleeding at the bleeders on the wheel cylinders.

The old school method where one guy is in the car pressuring the brakes, the other poor schmuck is under the car, getting sprayed with brake fluid when he releases the bleeder valve.... :cheers:
 
There was a post on here a while back that said when bleeding brakes with someone pushing the pedal never let the pedal go all the way to the floor as it will pull air in when you let off. Do a search on bleeding brakes there was some other useful info in that thread.
Bruce
 
when i bleed, i use a bottle with a tube in it submerged in brake fluid. i consider the first 2 bleeds at each wheel to be the purging bleeds to get rid of the air in the tube. then its a part of the hydraulic system and then you can bleed. even after those 2, i have had to bleed 2-10 more times depending, and fill the master twice to get little pockets of air out.

each car is different. some bleed easy, some kick you in the teeth and then bleed easy.
 
I would guess that it's not because it needs more bleeding, but because the drum brakes need adjusting. The shoes are far enough from the drums that you need to pump twice to get them to contact the drums. I've seen it a bunch. My 70 Swinger was always like that. I'd adjust them, and they'd be fine for a few days, and then I'd have to start double pumping again.
 
Make sure the shoes are adjusted up snug to reduce excesive traveling of wheel cylinders.
 
Yea i was gonna say adjust the drums, also you said the otherside wasn't leaking as bad ? if it's leaking at all your not gonna have fullpedal, Easy way to bled brakes open all 4 wheelclys. top off m.c. when brakefluid starts coming out of them close em up your done but don't let the m.c. run out of fluid
 
All shoes are in good shape, and are adjusted to where they are starting to touch the drums, and creating slight drag.

I am wondering about master cylinder, and that it might be excaping by a seal partially on the inside.

I will get them all adjusted tight, and a new master cylinder, and report back to everyone.
 
Update​

All 4 wheel cylinders have been replaced.

We replaced the master cylinder last night, bled the brakes, and adjusted them tight.

Pedal is at the TOP and brakes feel AWESOME! It is not quite as good as discs, but it is DAMN CLOSE. Pedal feels firmer then on my 94 Ram 1/2 2wd. Right now, the driver is tighter then passenger, and it is pulling. I am going to take wheels off, SUPERCLEAN everything, and re-adjust so they ahave the same drag. It might take a time or 2. but they feel GREAT.

Next week, this thing hits the road.....WAHOO! :cheers::cheers:
 
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