Can you post a link please. I went to his channel and looked for a title about main caps but didn’t find one.
Yup. I’ll see if I can find it.
Can you post a link please. I went to his channel and looked for a title about main caps but didn’t find one.
Can you post a link please. I went to his channel and looked for a title about main caps but didn’t find one.
curious on the cost? they look expensive. what was the final cost to have it all done, (engine machine work cost )The new owner of Pro-Gram Engineering, Billet Speed Works, can make the caps if you contact them. I had a complete 340 2 bolt set made last year. Be forwarned, it will take several months and are NOT cheap. You can opt out of the billet rear cap and save a good bit. But if youre gonna go through the trouble you might as well go all out and do it right.
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I only did it because a production block is significantly lighter then an X or R block. If youre not confined by a particular class, I would go with the X or R block.
go right here to Hughes and read it.What is your process on how you install the main caps?
I know what you're saying I feel the same way. I just need to decide how serious I am.Ritter block lookin better all the time
When I asked him about it I specified for converting an R or X block from two bolt to four bolt.I spoke with Kent today and he does not do the caps individually any longer . He feels it compromises the integrity of the stock block. He stated a stock block could not handle any more than 600hp either way. He suggested I purchase one of his blocks and have the machine work done by a reputable machine shop. He figures the cost is in the $6500.00 area complete.
Those things do look like a thing of beauty though.The new owner of Pro-Gram Engineering, Billet Speed Works, can make the caps if you contact them. I had a complete 340 2 bolt set made last year. Be forwarned, it will take several months and are NOT cheap. You can opt out of the billet rear cap and save a good bit. But if youre gonna go through the trouble you might as well go all out and do it right.
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I only did it because a production block is significantly lighter then an X or R block. If youre not confined by a particular class, I would go with the X or R block.
I asked for his 2 bolt caps for my 360 block. Kent was very nice about it and expressed his thoughts on how he thought the stock block would be compromised.When I asked him about it I specified for converting an R or X block from two bolt to four bolt.
You wouldn't be nervous those roll pins would work their way out?
I thought all R blocks ARE 4 bolt blocks.When I asked him about it I specified for converting an R or X block from two bolt to four bolt.
I thought all R blocks ARE 4 bolt blocks.
The new owner of Pro-Gram Engineering, Billet Speed Works, can make the caps if you contact them. I had a complete 340 2 bolt set made last year. Be forwarned, it will take several months and are NOT cheap. You can opt out of the billet rear cap and save a good bit. But if youre gonna go through the trouble you might as well go all out and do it right.
View attachment 1716391165
I only did it because a production block is significantly lighter then an X or R block. If youre not confined by a particular class, I would go with the X or R block.
I had a 2 bolt X block with studs.Nope. There are 2 bolt versions of X and R blocks.
You are better off starting with a 2 bolt block anyway.
The Ritter caps move the register to the outside of the outside bolt.