Block sanding questions
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CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
Depends on quality of the bodywork really. Apply 3 coats of high build filler primer, start with 180 grit dry after a guide coat is applied to help find problem areas. You will probably remove most of those three coats! Apply two more coats of primer then start with 320 after a guide coat. I use cheap flat black rattle cans for the guide coat. You could waste your money on the powder I suppose.
If you are using enamel you can finish off with 500 wet/dry paper. If you are using bc/cc then finish off with 600 wet/dry. The sealer will fill any other small scratches from the paper then apply base.
I use Mirka papers mostly but found another good paper at O'Rielly Auto Parts. You can get Mirka from ebay at a reasonable price. Automotive paint supply stores will stick it to ya for sure!!! Not sure what kind of blocks you are using, I use Durablocks. Best on the market imo.... Be sure you ask for sticky back paper for the dry papers so they stick to your blocks. No need to waste more cash on the paper with the velcro crap on it.
If you are using enamel you can finish off with 500 wet/dry paper. If you are using bc/cc then finish off with 600 wet/dry. The sealer will fill any other small scratches from the paper then apply base.
I use Mirka papers mostly but found another good paper at O'Rielly Auto Parts. You can get Mirka from ebay at a reasonable price. Automotive paint supply stores will stick it to ya for sure!!! Not sure what kind of blocks you are using, I use Durablocks. Best on the market imo.... Be sure you ask for sticky back paper for the dry papers so they stick to your blocks. No need to waste more cash on the paper with the velcro crap on it.
kevindahle
Well-Known Member
Dura-block has a great assortment and is available in most automotive paint supply stores or online at autobody toolmart or I'm sure amazon, ebay they are very popular and great quality.
72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
Durablock makes some good ones. They have assorted sizes and you can buy in sets. Check Ebay out.
alleyoopmgv
Well-Known Member
I use these AFS Sanders. A guy here from the twin cities invented them. He makes them in him garage, or he used to anyways. They work really good. There kinda spendy, but well worth it. Just keep in mind, prep work is 90% of a good straight paint job. If your cutting corners in your prep work, it will show in your paint work.
>>>>>>>>>>>http://adjustablesander.com/products.html
>>>>>>>>>>>http://adjustablesander.com/products.html
RzeroB
Well-Known Member
Unless you are sanding a M1 Abrams tank, there are no truly flat surfaces on a car - so you need something semi-flexible that can conform to the surface you are sanding - high-density foam blocks work best for most areas.
You can improvise things for sanding blocks too. I have used sections of radiator hose to get the correct radius for a concave surface. There are a lot of possible sanding blocks in your garage if you look for them.
For the larger semi-flat panels such as roofs, hoods, decklids, etc you will need a longboard sander. The longboard smooths out the minute ripples and waves over a larger area and will help you get a flatter panel when you are done.
As Cuudak alluded to, the best way to get a really flat panel is to use a guide coat. Keep spraying on the primer followed up by a light guide coat and sand until the guide coat comes off uniformily without any high or low spots.
You can improvise things for sanding blocks too. I have used sections of radiator hose to get the correct radius for a concave surface. There are a lot of possible sanding blocks in your garage if you look for them.
For the larger semi-flat panels such as roofs, hoods, decklids, etc you will need a longboard sander. The longboard smooths out the minute ripples and waves over a larger area and will help you get a flatter panel when you are done.
As Cuudak alluded to, the best way to get a really flat panel is to use a guide coat. Keep spraying on the primer followed up by a light guide coat and sand until the guide coat comes off uniformily without any high or low spots.
They are right when it was said you will reapply primer several times. I finally got to the point where I didn't need a guide coat anymore, but that wad after sanding several times. I don't know how to describe it, but you can tell where you sanded.
waggin
moving on ain't easy if you drive a Ford :p
you can use a dark color of basecoat thinned out and misted on for a guide coat that will save a few bucks
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Also, use a different color epoxy for your first primer coat than the color you use for your build coat. For example, if you're using a grey build coat primer, use black epoxy. That way, combined with your guide coat, you'll know when you've gone through the build coat to the epoxy, meaning that's a high spot. You can use anything for the guide coat. If you have some red primer lying around for example, use that on your grey build coat, just anything that will give contrast and show where it's sanded off and where it's not.
blue missile
Well-Known Member
AUTOBODY TOOLMART.COM!
They ship quickly and their prices cant be touched. They also have great customer service.
That goes for rolls of sand paper as well. I use PSA Mirka Gold.
Andrew
They ship quickly and their prices cant be touched. They also have great customer service.
That goes for rolls of sand paper as well. I use PSA Mirka Gold.
Andrew
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
Just did this Mopar in October. Quarters had about 15-20 hours block time after a second respray of filler primer. Turned out arrow straight after the Viper red was applied!! I used Durablocks, both round and flat. Also a stiff straight radiator hose as suggested in a prior post for all the convex/concave areas. I also like to use a 5 gallon paint stick when wetsanding. I get those at Home Depot for free!
Be sure to use an "X" pattern when sanding as well. Stay away from straight back and forth as well as up and down when possible.
Be sure to use an "X" pattern when sanding as well. Stay away from straight back and forth as well as up and down when possible.
I think the company is tps tools have pretty good prices and variety
longer the block the better the finish I believe, durablock can even be gotten at most local autoparts that have some paint supplies, our local napa and carquest have a variety on the shelf. paint is a sealer, dont feel like you have to take it all off unless it is bad, just create good bonding surface, of course if their is 6 layers remove it but 1 or two layers is fine also, you may need a sealer depending on your paint choice. good luck
longer the block the better the finish I believe, durablock can even be gotten at most local autoparts that have some paint supplies, our local napa and carquest have a variety on the shelf. paint is a sealer, dont feel like you have to take it all off unless it is bad, just create good bonding surface, of course if their is 6 layers remove it but 1 or two layers is fine also, you may need a sealer depending on your paint choice. good luck
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