Jonnylightening
Well-Known Member
How well would the iron super six intake fair with boost? Also I’m going to keep this post going with future questions.
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Boosted slant?
- Thread starter Jonnylightening
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Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Mild boost would be no problem, I would not push it too far!
Depends on your goals, a turbo say with a 400 hp capability can only produce around that amount with a combo of NA hp + boosted hp, a boost of 14.7 psi basically doubles (2 x ) your NA power, half that boost 7.35 psi 1.5 x NA, 22.05 psi 2.5 x NA. General rule of thumb.
A 140 hp /6 with 5-10 psi of boost equals about 1.33-1.66 x 140hp = 186-232hp.
A 140 hp /6 with 14.7-22 psi of boost equals about 280-350hp.
Don't forget to gap the rings.
Sling a Holley 2300 500CFM on it and it'll haul ***.
Jonnylightening
Well-Known Member
I’m in the planning stage at the moment. I have a 2300 Holley sniper I’ll be using
I am considering the same thing on a /6, I think I gapped the rings "by the book" when I put mine together. If I turbo mine im only looking for 6-8 psi at most. Would that be too much boost for "book spec" ring gaps?
I know that most push the "blow thru" setup over the "draw thru" but I'm looking at draw thru since I'm not looking to push it that hard largely because I put "rebuilder's" (oe replacement grade) cast pistons in it when I rebuilt it.
And im not interested in 11 sec 1/4 mile times just looking for a "little more" out of a small motor in a truck body ...
Not trying to step on the op's thread but thought what I'm wanting to do might be relevant to what they are wanting. My questions might relate to their build.
I know that most push the "blow thru" setup over the "draw thru" but I'm looking at draw thru since I'm not looking to push it that hard largely because I put "rebuilder's" (oe replacement grade) cast pistons in it when I rebuilt it.
And im not interested in 11 sec 1/4 mile times just looking for a "little more" out of a small motor in a truck body ...
Not trying to step on the op's thread but thought what I'm wanting to do might be relevant to what they are wanting. My questions might relate to their build.
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Well there you go. Whatchya askin us for then? lol
Jonnylightening
Well-Known Member
Mainly at the moment I’m asking if the cast iron super six intake will be sufficient on a boosted application or if I should go with another intake.
I don't know why it wouldn't be.
If I were to fuel inject mine I'd be looking to use something like a TB off a 4.0 jeep motor, I d modify a 1 bbl intake for that....
And probably drill that intake for separate injectors.
If I were to fuel inject mine I'd be looking to use something like a TB off a 4.0 jeep motor, I d modify a 1 bbl intake for that....
And probably drill that intake for separate injectors.
Jonnylightening
Well-Known Member
You’re good buddy. Maybe we can both get info we are looking for. I’m building mine for a truck as well. I thought about building it for my valiant but in my eyes it NEEDS a V8
Aren't super 6 aluminum intake? either way yes you can use it.
Around how much hp and boost you looking for?
Jonnylightening
Well-Known Member
I was bein funny. I think it'll work fine.
Jonnylightening
Well-Known Member
It’s all good buddy I figured you were. Just trying to get ducks in a row. Figured ask ask ask!
And yes, all 2 barrel intakes are from super sixes.
NoCar340
The Original Partstitute
Not all 2V Slants were necessarily branded as Super Sixes, but they're virtually identical other than the manifold material. My '78 ex-USAF D200 4-door had a cast-iron 2V manifold but no "Super" designation on it. Everything interchanged with Super Six Volare parts, so to me it was a Super Six. There wasn't much super about it in a 6,500lb truck, though.
The limiting factor won't be the intake manifold, it'll be the cylinder head, especially on a Slant larger than a 170. Oversized valves and porting are time and money well spent, particularly with forced induction. Intake manifold (boost) pressure is a measure of the resistance to airflow. In other words, the PSI reading is simply telling you how much air is not moving through the engine. You'll flow more with a ported/valved head and 12PSI than you will with 15PSI and a 100% stock casting. More air through the engine = more fuel burned = more power. It's no different than natural aspiration, really, except now there's pressure at the valve when it opens rather than a vacuum being generated by piston movement.
Similarly, on the exhaust side, the factory manifold will not be the major restriction--it'll be the turbo. The lower the backpressure after the turbo--the exhaust system--the greater the pressure differential across the turbine wheel. Less pressure after the turbine = quicker spool times/less lag. There is no such thing as "good" exhaust backpressure with a turbocharger.
Just like water, electricity, and human nature, any resistance is exacerbated by increased pressure. This is true on both the intake and exhaust sides.
"Street Turbocharging" by Mark Warner is an excellent resource on this subject. It might not be as entertaining as reading internet forums, but the advice is consistent and solid instead of conflicting opinions. It's well worth the price and a couple of full read-throughs to fully digest it. There's a heck of a lot more to forced induction than just hangin' a turbo on the engine and calling it a day (especially regarding ignition timing). Learning the hard way is a lot more expensive than a book and a few nights' worth of reading.
The limiting factor won't be the intake manifold, it'll be the cylinder head, especially on a Slant larger than a 170. Oversized valves and porting are time and money well spent, particularly with forced induction. Intake manifold (boost) pressure is a measure of the resistance to airflow. In other words, the PSI reading is simply telling you how much air is not moving through the engine. You'll flow more with a ported/valved head and 12PSI than you will with 15PSI and a 100% stock casting. More air through the engine = more fuel burned = more power. It's no different than natural aspiration, really, except now there's pressure at the valve when it opens rather than a vacuum being generated by piston movement.
Similarly, on the exhaust side, the factory manifold will not be the major restriction--it'll be the turbo. The lower the backpressure after the turbo--the exhaust system--the greater the pressure differential across the turbine wheel. Less pressure after the turbine = quicker spool times/less lag. There is no such thing as "good" exhaust backpressure with a turbocharger.
Just like water, electricity, and human nature, any resistance is exacerbated by increased pressure. This is true on both the intake and exhaust sides.
"Street Turbocharging" by Mark Warner is an excellent resource on this subject. It might not be as entertaining as reading internet forums, but the advice is consistent and solid instead of conflicting opinions. It's well worth the price and a couple of full read-throughs to fully digest it. There's a heck of a lot more to forced induction than just hangin' a turbo on the engine and calling it a day (especially regarding ignition timing). Learning the hard way is a lot more expensive than a book and a few nights' worth of reading.
The slant two barrel manifolds used a BBD flange so a 2300 would require an adapter, right? You might want to make sure you have metal gaskets for the adapter since paper will likely get blown out under boost.
Correct. Also a good choice would be to modify the intake throttle bores to match that of the 2300 adapter plate.
MadScientistMat
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Many of the aluminum slant six manifolds had leakage issues, although if it doesn't leak under vacuum, it won't leak under boost.
Cast iron super six manifolds will not have leakage issues, but welding port injector bungs if you go EFI would be a challenge. I also would be concerned with a TBI about fuel distribution issues, although it may work. It may also be possible to prep a BBD (or two barrel Holley, probably more info about those) for blow through use.
Cast iron super six manifolds will not have leakage issues, but welding port injector bungs if you go EFI would be a challenge. I also would be concerned with a TBI about fuel distribution issues, although it may work. It may also be possible to prep a BBD (or two barrel Holley, probably more info about those) for blow through use.
I've had a couple of/6s that actually surprised me with the pep they had, bone stock over the years and I decided to stick with one here as a "devil's advocate" build since so many people discount this motor as "weak junk". I wanted to see just what I could make one "do".
If you go into it with the attitude that it'll never have V8 power, that's half the battle won right there. So many guys act like if it ain't got 350HP it ain't chit. I question their "Moparness" myself.
Exactly.
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