Bracket racing a 5.7 Hemi

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KX35

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I am starting my own hemi swap, I have an 04 truck 5.7 as my base. I bracket race and this motor will only see the race track. My plan so far is to start with the stock bottom end, freshen heads with new springs to match a yet to be determined cam, mod man intake, and msd Hemi 6. It will be in front of a 904 with an 8" converter that flashes about 5000 behind my current 360. My goal for this first build would be to run low 11's or high 10's in 3200# Dart.

My questions are:

What cam specs should I shoot for (lift, lobe separation mainly)
Should I stick with 5w20 oil or go a little heavier
Any pitfalls I should be aware of.
 
Problem with the stock bottom end 5.7 is the piston to valve clearance. Biggest cam you can run is probably about a 219 intake, 22x exhaust. expect peak power to be around 5800 rpm, peak torque around 4400 rpm. Use PAC 1218 valve springs.

use a 6.1 timing set.

That's all I've got for now.
 
10 or 11 sec with a stock 345 base 5.7????? is your car 2000 lbs??? we run 11.30's with a stroked 398 and cnc'd heads with big valves--Steve
 
The quarter mile calculator on moparts says that 520 hp could get a 3200 lbs car to run 11.251. I say 520 because that is most likely the ceiling for this type of build using those heads and that bottom end. I don't recall seeing anybody make more than that naturally aspirated on pump gas on an engine dyno with those 03-08 heads.

How I'd get there:

Rebuild stock bottom end Rings bearings you know
Contact several shops who build g3's and get cam reccamendations make an educated decision based on all info gathered.
Drag pack style intake from muscle motors
Port and polish the heads (research)
Get proper springs installed on heads while your there
Car front cover. So you can run...
...electric water pump
6.1 oil pump
ATI dampener
06-08 valve covers
SOS coil packs. Late style
Adjustable timing set or a 6.1 unit if not wanting adjustability.
TTi headers
750 Holley hp
Modern muscle intake adapters
Stock rocker gear with
Sharodon shaft hold downs.
Hardened pushrods


This would be the ultimate stock short block/compression formula for the early style engine.
 
Or..... You could follow the same parts list but use the 09-present eagle heads. They flow 20-40 cfm better than the 04 heads and would raise the compression up somewhere between 11 and 12 to 1. This would probably put you in the 560-570 range. But, I don't know of the consequences of running that compression on stock pistons. Tuning would be critical. Race gas would help with detonation and make more power so it's a toss up.

Either way you slice it I would not run it over 6500-6800. I've heard the stock cranks get iffy with the oiling at high rpm.

Hope this helps somebody. But don't take my word for it. Search around read up on it. Cus I may not know sh*t. Actually I'm pretty sure I don't. Lol
 
RPM killing crankshafts:

I did some research on it. The guys who built the drag pak motors said they've got stock cranks running to 8300-8400 rpm, WITH 11.5 QUARTS IN THE PAN AND ACCUSUMP. So, it sounds like its possible, but you better have your ducks in a row everywhere else. Others have mentioned 7000-7500 rpm limits as 'safe' without much effort.
 
One of the issues is the 6.1 oil pump emptying the pan b4 oil can drain back to the sump...I assume an accusump would fix that?

The other is the cross -drilled nature of the 6.1 crank ...so even if you upgrade you may want to consider an aftermarket piece.

I also agree on looking at the. Drag pak intake over the Modman.....its clearly a better designed piece for racing.
 
I am starting my own hemi swap, I have an 04 truck 5.7 as my base. I bracket race and this motor will only see the race track. My plan so far is to start with the stock bottom end, freshen heads with new springs to match a yet to be determined cam, mod man intake, and msd Hemi 6. It will be in front of a 904 with an 8" converter that flashes about 5000 behind my current 360. My goal for this first build would be to run low 11's or high 10's in 3200# Dart.

My questions are:

What cam specs should I shoot for (lift, lobe separation mainly)
Should I stick with 5w20 oil or go a little heavier
Any pitfalls I should be aware of.

This is how I did it. You should run a low 11 or high 10 in a light car.


5.7L hemi
Car: 1968 Plymouth Barracuda
Weight: 3750 lbs with driver. (To save the arguments I weigh in at a light 350lbs)
Gear ratio: 4.56
Tire diameter: 27"
RPM through trap: 7500
MPH through traps: 116.1
ET: 11.54 60' 1.66
Tire Type: Hoosier Quick Times

Engine CID: 354 5.7L hemi (Stock displacement)
Head Type: 5.7L hemi
Valve size: 2.02 1.57
Head Work: CNC ported by M2 Farmingdale NJ
Cam Manufacturer: Comp cams
Cam specs at 50: .547lift 248 Intake .532 lift 254 Exhaust 107 LSA
Carb type and size: Edelbrock 500cfm X 2
PV Rating: Orange springs
Jet sizes: Not sure yet
Plug number and brand: NGK Iridium 2315
Intake Manifold Type: Edelbrock dual quad
Piston Make: Ross
Compression Ratio: 11.0-1

Trans type: 727
Trans Mods: Bolt in sprag, A&A valve body, Low first gear, Billet low reverse piston, 4.2 Lever, 5500 rpm governor Etc Etc...
Convertor type: 8" ATI
Convertor stall: 4500
Trans Brake: N/A

Drive shaft stock or aftermarket: Dennys aluminum

Initial timing: 15deg
Total timing: 22deg
Total advance at what RPM: 2800

Rear end type: 8 3/4

You will need a minimum of an 8 quart pan because you will suck the pan dry. Ask me how I know!! I run 10W-40
 

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Im thinking a Manley oil pump could cure the oil problem. Need to call them, their adjustable pump has a 50,60,65# spring to choose from IIRC. Seems the factory pumps may be a little to efficient. Also think a guy could restrict oil to the heads by drilling and tapping the block where it feeds the heads.
 
Melling pumps have failed. I don't know of a 6.1 pump ever failing. And i didnt know Manley even had a pump.

99% of everyone on lx forums says use the 6.1 oil pump, period.


Let me know if you try the oil restriction. I'll probably work on increasing oil capacity instead.

I've seen north of 7,000 with 7 quarts in the 6 quart tank without issue. Not on a road course yet though.
 
Ok uhcoog1-Stock cranks running to 8500 rpm from your research,first what are they using for rockers???? stock??? what are they shifting at???? rpm wise ,Talking to the bracket racers at Norwalk a few weeks ago who are using the 392 stroker 5.7's thay are setting there rev limits at 8000 and shifting at 7500 BUT not one of them would tell me what they are using for rockers so I took that as they are NOT stock,Maybe Arlington??? Harlandsharp??? btw also talked to the Harland sharp tech guy about the troubles they had snapping the rockers at 7000rpm (did anyone know that??) and they took the needle bearings out and they all come bushed now,BUT wouldn't give me a rev number on the rockers,I 'd like to hear from someone in the real world who is running a 5.7 at what they are pushing this motor to as far as rpm's,I would NEVER give any number on here for a first time builder of this motor unless you can really back those numbers up with REAL world testing,Some guy might go in and set his rev at 8500 and blow up his upper end not knowing,--Thanks Steve
 
UHcoog1--I KNOW your trying to help,I'm not picking on you so don't take me that way please-steve
 
Ok uhcoog1-Stock cranks running to 8500 rpm from your research,first what are they using for rockers???? stock??? what are they shifting at???? rpm wise ,Talking to the bracket racers at Norwalk a few weeks ago who are using the 392 stroker 5.7's thay are setting there rev limits at 8000 and shifting at 7500 BUT not one of them would tell me what they are using for rockers so I took that as they are NOT stock,Maybe Arlington??? Harlandsharp??? btw also talked to the Harland sharp tech guy about the troubles they had snapping the rockers at 7000rpm (did anyone know that??) and they took the needle bearings out and they all come bushed now,BUT wouldn't give me a rev number on the rockers,I 'd like to hear from someone in the real world who is running a 5.7 at what they are pushing this motor to as far as rpm's,I would NEVER give any number on here for a first time builder of this motor unless you can really back those numbers up with REAL world testing,Some guy might go in and set his rev at 8500 and blow up his upper end not knowing,--Thanks Steve

Steve-

Thanks for the post- I'm sure what I said could be misinterpreted. I will be honest and say I haven't done it, and have only spoken with Stanton motors and a few other folks regarding high rpm in these hemi motors. There isn't much info out there on the internet. I believe the drag pak guys shift at 8300-8400 rpm, don't know what they hit the traps at.

For the general reader: IF YOU WANT AN 8,000+ RPM HEMI, call a professional (like Stanton motors- who built the drag pak motors). Or do it yourself and break stuff finding out what it takes.

What I do know:
Rockers- I believe they run stock rockers, as they're limited to them in the drag pak series.
Rest of valvetrain- I don't know for sure, but I'm assuming they're using the tie downs, and I'm sure a number use the sharadon collars. No doubt with upgraded pushrods, with specific lengths, some of which will pick lengths that put the lifter ~.040 to bottoming out. Total lifter travel is around .160", and stock has .055-.060 preload (so ~.100 from bottoming out).
NO STOCK RODS
NO STOCK PISTONS
8 quart drag pak pan filled to 8.5 quarts, and 3 quart accusump to get to 11.5 quarts total.
Single beehive springs with upwards of 150-160 on the seat and 380++ open, or dual at 180+ & 400+. Cam profile makes a big difference. I *think* most switched to a dual when the rules allowed.

Back on the valvetrain- the heads you have determine the springs and valves you can run. Stock valve geometry puts anything over ~.580 lift to not look good on the stock rockers. It would be prudent to adjust your geometry with different valve heights if you have to have the extra lift.


When speaking with PAC springs, FOR MY APPLICATION (road racing), they recommended a single beehive for 7500 rpm, and a dual spring for 8000+ rpm. I'm guessing the cam profile will play in to what is needed, as well as what valves you have, etc. If you ran hollow valves, titanium retainers, a mild cam lobe, then 8000 rpm *might* be possible with single beehives. Once again, this is something i know very little about!!!

If I were building a bracket motor, I'd shift at 6800-7000 and never go through traps above 7500. I'd use a cam with limited lift (~.580-.600), and I'd get the sharadon valvetrain ties and collars. I'd get custom length pushrods that sit ~.040-.050 from bottoming out, and I wouldn't run the most aggressive lobes on my cam.
 
More advice from the dealers-
don't spend much time at or above 7000 rpm without the sharadon tie downs or collars. (mopar makes tie downs as well, no collars, though). I do not have collars on mine.
 
Uhcoog1--VERY GOOD--Thanks For the info--Steve
 
P.S. look up trwaters for tie downs and shaft collers--Steve
 
Another hint we are above the .600 lift on our motor-Thanks Steve
 
Also guy's think Molnar for components --He just left K1 and was the Main engineer in the us here---Steve
 
Another hint we are above the .600 lift on our motor-Thanks Steve

That's the interesting thing - Jerry @ Sharadon mentioned the .580" lift as a limit for good geometry (specifically mentioned the rocker tip in a compromising position at high lift), but most cam profiles these days are .600-.630" lift with our 1.65:1 rockers, and there hasn't been excessive tip wear as far as I know.
 
I spent the money at the time for the Melling pump as well. So far so good but when it comes back appart it's getting a stock 6.1L pump. I have the Sharadon collars and hold downs but not the link bars. They weren't around at the time. That is also next on the agenda. I wanted to go with some bigger lift but the stock rockers scare me. You can also run a bigger lift with a less agressive ramp on the cam but it was a toss up between aria under the curve and peak lift flow and I went with aria under the curve. I ran my pan dry with a 6quart pan filled to 6 quarts at 7000+. Good thing I Nitrided the crank when I built the motor. Practicaly 0 damage!! I modified a 6 quart Milodon to 8 quarts and ditched the stock windage tray/gasket to a Milodon tray and scraper and I havn't had a problem since.
 
I spent the money at the time for the Melling pump as well. So far so good but when it comes back appart it's getting a stock 6.1L pump. I have the Sharadon collars and hold downs but not the link bars. They weren't around at the time. That is also next on the agenda. I wanted to go with some bigger lift but the stock rockers scare me. You can also run a bigger lift with a less agressive ramp on the cam but it was a toss up between aria under the curve and peak lift flow and I went with aria under the curve. I ran my pan dry with a 6quart pan filled to 6 quarts at 7000+. Good thing I Nitrided the crank when I built the motor. Practicaly 0 damage!! I modified a 6 quart Milodon to 8 quarts and ditched the stock windage tray/gasket to a Milodon tray and scraper and I havn't had a problem since.

Thanks for posting!!!!

Anyone know what the 6.1 pump flows? gpm?
 
Hey Joe-Question--How did you know you drained the pan??? and when you modified the pan I take it you extended the pick as well--Steve
 
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