brake help

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jelybean

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Blair nebraska
I have a dodge 600. The calipers started to stick and i installed new calipers. the brake pedal goes almost all the way down to the floor and then snaps/pops all the way down. so i ended up changinging the master cylinder. installed it and checked it w/ the plugs in before connecting the lines. the pedal was solid. i reconnected the lines and it goes all the way to the floor still. i dont see any leaks under the car from a blown brake line but wondering if it is the calipers i got are bad, or if it is possibly the proportioning valve. if i go to move it it does not stop. i checked the rear brake cylinders and they are both dry. i think on payday, or even tomorrow i am gonna rig her calipers from her dodge on the car and see if thera is a pedal. be my luck that the calipers are bad. anyboy have any suggestions??? I have had them bled several times and still have the same problem. i'm going out to get a Proportioning Valve for it today and see if that will fix the problem. have no brakes they just drop to the floor and nothing. I didn't bench bleed the mastercylinder someone ese did. jim thinks it's the calipers and won't work on it anymore. After installing the Proportioning Valve it still does the same thing, and I want to bleed the brake again everyone thinks it would be a waits of time and doesn't want to do them again.. I'm think about just getting rid of the car. don't want to since I only payed $200 for it. help anyone
 
If you had brakes before you replaced the calipers and only after you changed the calipers your pedal goes to the floor you have air in the system. There is no way calipers can cause this problem. They are basically a hydraulic resovoir with a extendable piston. Once filled with fluid the piston extends. If there is air in the system they don't extend (push out) to apply the brakes.

I have had times where I have had trouble bleeding the air out of the system also. This is how I got it to bleed out. First starting at the right rear wheel open the bleeder screw and let the fluid run out until it runs clear. CLOSELY MONITOR THE MASTER CYL. SO IT DON'T RUN DRY OR IT WILL SUCK UP MORE AIR!! Then go the the left rear wheel and do the same thing. AGAIN WATCH THAT MASTER CYL.!! Then go to the right front whell and do the same then the left front. This is called gravity bleeding and usually gets the ball rolling. Then bleed all the wheels normally. Also when you bleed the wheels pump the pedal up and when you open the bleeder close it right back up. Just leave it open long enough to let the air out, not much fluid. Letting alot of fluid out isn't necessary like alot of guys think. Some guys think the pedal needs to be pushed to the floor but actually that's not correct.
 
Hello Jelybean. It sounds like you have a lot of air in the system yet. I`d start over with bench bleeding the m/c. It`s possible your m/c was not bench bled ,or not done correctly. Don`t push the piston in more than an inch when you bleed it.When you get it right the piston shouldn`t move much more than 1/8 of an inch. After you install the m/c you`ll have to bleed the wheel cylinders. Hook up your lines and start at the furthest brake (right rear)and work to the closest brake (left front) from your m/c. Connect a small clear tube to your bleeder valve and fill a jar with enough fluid to submerge the end of the tube in. Make sure your m/c never gets low enough to draw air, keep it topped off! Get a friend with patience and BIG leg muscles to pump your brakes for you. Bleed them until no bubbles are present in the brake fluid exiting the cylinders. You should be okay , it sounds like you`ve got good parts, you`ve just got to get them dialed in. Oh , what is a Dodge 600, a K car? Good luck!
 
Make sure you have the calipers on the correct side. If you have them on the wrong side, the bleeder will be at the bottom instead of the top. You can bleed an ocean of fluid through it and not get the air out of an upside down caliper.
HTH

Brian
 
they are on the right side, it's has been to hot to replace the brake line that the troll broke, hope to get it fixed to find out what can be don :wav:
 
well now the b/f is going to replace the ms again..i hope this works, because i'm tired of not haveing my car :sad1:
 
still no brakes, i have no clue and neither does my b/f,, i wonder if i should spend the money on a booster for the car?
 
When I was a technician I saw this a lot, it is almost impossible to bleed the brake systems of modern cars by pumping the brake pedal unless you are extremely careful when and let very little air in the system, even if you are careful nobody follows the correct procedure to bleed them with the brake pedal, they usually wind up making it worse. You need to start by properly bench bleeding the master cylinder (as other people have suggested) you then will have to either use a vaccum bleeder or a pressure bleeder - if you don't have one or can't borrow one you are going to have to call around to some local garages to see if they have a pressure bleeder and have it towed there - it will probably cost anywhere from $50.00 tp $100.00
 
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