Brake Hub help please! Sbp to bbp

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Why is everyone making this so difficult? Just swap to the big bolt pattern73-76 disc brakes including the upper control arms. Done deal. End of story. People have been doing it fifty years.
 
Why is everyone making this so difficult? Just swap to the big bolt pattern73-76 disc brakes including the upper control arms. Done deal. End of story. People have been doing it fifty years.

Rusty, I agree with you on this point - though I'm trying to figure out if there's any way that the OP can pull it off with a minimal replacement of parts (and hopefully, cost). Hell, I figured out how to blow nearly $900* on a B-body disc swap, and still come out with something that looks like a pile of crappy stock parts, save for the Firm Feel UCA (worth it for the extra caster built in, IMO):

Mopar 11.75" B-Body Disc Brake Conversion (F/M/J spindle) by cudak888, on Flickr

There was, however, half of the bits for this conversion on eBay for dirt cheap, no less too - and it didn't sell: Mopar Disc Brake Spindles With Backing Plates 1973 - 1978 Dodge Plymouth

That said - I'm a bit curious whether the single-piston design performs as well as the Kelsey-Hayes 4-pistons. Never had a chance to drive a car with the latter, so I wouldn't know myself. Would seem to be a bit of a downgrade, even though the single-piston has a great track record on its own.

-Kurt

*$275 - UCA's, $250 - LCA's, $100 - 11.75 caliper brackets, $80 - rotors, $50 - shocks, $40 - LBJ's, $40 - calipers, $15 - pads, $25 - ball joint bolts
 
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If there was a way to do it cheaper and better, it would have been found out.
 
If there was a way to do it cheaper and better, it would have been found out.

There are ways to do it cheaper, there are ways to do it better, and there is a way to do it cheaper and better.

But with the right junkyard nearby, none of that may necessarily apply. It's hard to know exactly what would work best for the OP all the way here at my desk and chair. Being there is a whole 'nother story.

-Kurt
 
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There are ways to do it cheaper, there are ways to do it better, and there is a way to do it cheaper and better...

...but with the right junkyard nearby, none of that may necessarily apply. It's hard to know exactly what would work best for the OP all the way here at my desk and chair. Being there is a whole 'nother story.

-Kurt

I am not sure I agree with any of that regarding a street car. The factory stuff is usually the best bang for the buck.

I know if I build another one.........I will not have a brake system with Toyota this and Honda that. I don't give a damn how easy the parts are to come by.

No offense to anyone who uses that stuff. It works.....and it's smart.........it's simply not my preference.
 
I am not sure I agree with any of that regarding a street car. The factory stuff is usually the best bang for the buck.

I know if I build another one.........I will not have a brake system with Toyota this and Honda that. I don't give a damn how easy the parts are to come by.

No offense to anyone who uses that stuff. It works.....and it's smart.........it's simply not my preference.

The use of Toyota or Chevrolet rotors isn't my biggest worry with these boutique conversion kits. If the OEM parts survived this long without a whole bunch of failures, that's comforting to me.

It's the special mounting brackets in these conversion kits that I don't have faith in - I don't know who fabricated them, where they fabricated them, and to what standard.

Those 11.75" caliper brackets I have on that mockup are a good example. Decided full stop (pun not intended) against the repops when I heard they were Taiwanese (no offense to Cass or Dr. Diff intended).

At any rate, factory parts are best when you can get them locally. But sometimes it's a PITA online, and over the top expensive just because of shipping.

-Kurt
 
Maybe we have a member in his area that can help with the right factory parts. Maybe somebody will step up.
 
Maybe we have a member in his area that can help with the right factory parts. Maybe somebody will step up.
Now that's what I'd call the best way to do it. :)

After all, this forum is the best A-body parts and support network in existence.

-Kurt
 
Well seeing I have blown my entire budget on fixing the million little problems that were wrong with my cAr. I got in touch with a local machniest who has built and raced cArs for years. He is machining me brand new hubs with the 5x4.5 bolt pattern to fit my stock spindles. We agreed if it doesn't work then I will unfortunately park the car until spring and collect 73-76 parts over the winter. i will kee everyone posted on the results
 
Well seeing I have blown my entire budget on fixing the million little problems that were wrong with my cAr. I got in touch with a local machniest who has built and raced cArs for years. He is machining me brand new hubs with the 5x4.5 bolt pattern to fit my stock spindles. We agreed if it doesn't work then I will unfortunately park the car until spring and collect 73-76 parts over the winter. i will kee everyone posted on the results

Interesting workaround.

Mind you, I'm all for it if it works, but I'm a bit concerned that the existing Kelsey-Hayes spindles won't allow the calipers to sit far away enough from a larger rotor hat to clear the 4.5" bolt circle. Have you chosen a new rotor to work with your hubs, or are you having the new hubs designed to fit into your originals, drileld?

Either way, more power to you, and I hope it works out.

-Kurt
 
I am having the new hubs built around the kh spindles and rotors. Like I said we don't know if it will work like we are hoping but I've got my fingers crossed
 
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