Brakes still will not stay pumped up

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I kind of did that with the master cylinder. I said that some thing was wrong with the rear brakes.
I just ran out of time to work on it. I took it in yesterday to a local custom shop, a friend of mine who has done work for me before, cheep. He is also going to give me a price on finishing the body and sealing it.
I should know more Friday.
 
67barracuda said:
I may have bought my master cylinder for that same greg guy?
I bought it on ebay, the guy had 3-4 listed, but it was sometime ago and I got mine pretty cheap.

I think I will bleed them again and pick up a new master cylinder.
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You did not buy it from me. I do not sell parts on Ebay. Also, for about a year now I have only sold brand new master cylinders.
 
GregZ said:
You did not buy it from me. I do not sell parts on Ebay. Also, for about a year now I have only sold brand new master cylinders.
Click to expand...

I bought mine probably 2 years ago, I guess that was before you went to only new MC's.
 
Well, the car been the shop for about a week now and he can't fine anything wrong? He trying to push a powerboost unit on to me, but I tell he there is no room with the 440 in.
I just cant believe that manual brakes only give a half peddle. You can step on the peddle and hit the gas and they will hold the car while the tires spin. The problem I am having is if I am rolling about 10-15 mph and hit the brake, I think the car should stop on a dime. Not cost a car length or more then a slow stop. They never really grab lock if rolling.
What do you guys think? The ones who have done the disk brake conversion, how are your brakes. I have nothing to compair them to, pleasse help.
Thanks
The only good thing is that he said he would finish the body work and put it into seal/primer for under 1K. So I am going to let him finish the body work.
 
I have 74 disks up front and "C" body brakes on the rear and it stops great now. I had a similar problem with my brakes. I found a couple little leaks and gravity bled my brakes for about an hour, that made a hell of a difference. I have full pedal and it stops almost as well as my 04 Sebring.

JLP
 
67barracuda said:
Well, What do you guys think? The ones who have done the disk brake conversion, how are your brakes. I have nothing to compair them to, pleasse help.
Thanks
Click to expand...

I converted from 9" manual drums all the way around to the 73-76 disks up front and 10x2.5" drums in the rear. I used the proportioning valve from the 73 Dart doner. The rear drums were turned and new shoes installed with all new hardware and wheel cylinders. Up front, new rotors with rebuilt calipers and rebuilt disk brake MC. I also replaced all the steel lines to the rear of the car and all three rubber hoses.

I had no problem bleeding the system and have a nice high hard pedal.

Compared to the 9" drum system initial bite is not as much with the disks as it was with the drums (this is to be expected since drums tend to be self grabbing) so at slow speeds it takes more pressure on the pedal with the disks to stop the car than with the drums. The big difference is slowing down from speeds above 30 mph. The disks just grab and the rate of slowing down is proportional to the pressure on the pedal. The drums esspecially at high way speed fade with in a couple of seconds and no amount of pedal pressure will increase the rate the car slows down. It also required lifting off the pedal for a second to let things cool down so you could get the breaks to grab again. A couple of times it was quite unnerving and I worried if I would stop in time.

The rebuilt calipers came with pads installed. These sqeaked like hell. Replaced them with a set of Raybetos PG+ pads, that solved that problem plus the work better too.

It still sounds like you have an issue with the rear brakes. If it takes a lot of fluid movement to get the shoes in contact with the drums it can manifiest it self as poor overall braking.

Other areas to look are; I am assuming you have freshly turned drums and either new or turned rotors. Quite often the shoes and or pads will take a couple of hundred miles to bed into the drum/rotors before you get full contact. If the pads/shoes are not chamfered on the leading and trailing edges you may want to take a grinder to them and make a chamfer (make sure you wear a mask). If the hole face of the pad/shoe doesn't make contact evenly you will get a soft felling pedal as the pad/shoe flexes into full contact.
 
I have tryed to differrent master cylinders, and all the hoses are new except the rear. Before doing the disk brake conversion, the drums work great and the car stop fine. I would think I should be able to get back to what I had before if not better. I am along way for having what I had with the drums.

Can you get steel braided hose line to replace the rubber ones? I think that would help.
 
SS braided lines will certainly reduce the flexing of the lines but you have something else going on that I don't think the lines will fix. You should have a problem getting a nice high hard pedal.

I would look at the things I mentioned. Also, I negelected to mention to check to make sure you do not have slop in the pedal linkage. That would account for pedal travel but not a lack of stopping power.
 
I'm having the same braking problem. I just reaplaced the bushing on the passenger side upper control arm and, of course, removed the brake caliper to get the balljoint out. While the caliper was off, the piston basically just fell out (gradually, but it did work itself out). I spent forever getting it back in, and got it all put back together correctly. I topped off the MC, bled the front lines multiple times and it will only hold pressure if I pump it up a bunch.

Best part is, I had to drive back to my mom's house with funky brakes so most of my stopping came from downshifting and E-brake :flower:

I don't recommend coming to Nashville to get bushings pressed out/in, they don't like that sort of thing :angry8:
 
The car is in the body shop, so I can't mess with the brakes now.
The guy at the shop look at them and could not find any leaks. I am woundering about the calipers now. I bought single piston caliper for a 74 dart at an auto store of a manufacturer that was going to stop selling them. I only bought them because they did not want a core and I didn't have a core to exchange. Could there be something wrong with them, and how could I tell. Should I buy different one and use them as my core?
I really don't know what else to do.
I have tryed:
2 different new master cylinders
new calipers and pads
new rubber hoses front only
hardware kit
new rear pads
1 new rear wheel cylinder
I can't find any leaks
 
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