SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
This is basically a stock engine he can run a quality oil and a supplement for flat tappet and be fine and if thats Rotella
Delvac whatever the engine will live just fine if serviced properly.
Break in oil
- Thread starter ike61
- Start date
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Delvac whatever the engine will live just fine if serviced properly.
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
33IMP
Well-Known Member
I just tend to run what I find in the garage. During the last cleanup, I decided to try to get it all in one place.....
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Nice stash
I agree, especially since they dropped the ZDDP percentage a couple years ago.
Until just a couple years ago, most Rotellas were dual rated for gas and diesel. With the introduction of the API SP specs, Shell dropped it for some of them. They still have a good dose of anti-wear additives, and more calcium or magnesium detergents to help keep soot in suspension than gas only oil does. The calcium is bad for direct injection gas engines, causing pre-ignition. The ZDDP can be bad for the catalytic converter. So gas approvals have been removed. So if you don't have direct injection or cats, you're good to go.
Avoid using additives for this simple reason. You don't know what it will do. Will it help? Possibly, but it has a good chance of making other components in the oil less effective, making you worse off. Just get oil with what you need already blended in. Don't play chemist, there are lots of choices.
If you have a stock slant six or 2-barrel V8, just use a decent modern oil. Your valve spring pressure doesn't require anything more. If you have a performance engine try to use an oil with a little boosted ZDDP. The Mobil1 I mentioned earlier is a good one, as is their 15W-50. Valvoline VR-1 has some street grades with extra ZDDP. Remember that if the oil says "Resource Conserving" in the little donut, it cannot have the higher levels of ZDDP.
If you believe you need something with more, there are several out there, just maybe requiring to be shipped to you. Driven, Amsoil, Redline are a few. Summit has a large selection of lubes, but I'm not sure how much is actually in stock.
Avoid using additives for this simple reason. You don't know what it will do. Will it help? Possibly, but it has a good chance of making other components in the oil less effective, making you worse off. Just get oil with what you need already blended in. Don't play chemist, there are lots of choices.
If you have a stock slant six or 2-barrel V8, just use a decent modern oil. Your valve spring pressure doesn't require anything more. If you have a performance engine try to use an oil with a little boosted ZDDP. The Mobil1 I mentioned earlier is a good one, as is their 15W-50. Valvoline VR-1 has some street grades with extra ZDDP. Remember that if the oil says "Resource Conserving" in the little donut, it cannot have the higher levels of ZDDP.
If you believe you need something with more, there are several out there, just maybe requiring to be shipped to you. Driven, Amsoil, Redline are a few. Summit has a large selection of lubes, but I'm not sure how much is actually in stock.
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Good info !
Valvoline & Lucus
Are two American companies with Superior products VR1 is a great product and Lucus
Owns Mav-tv and sponsors many motorsports we love. I try my best to purchase Products from both companies.
Rotella is supposedly for diesel and severe duty gas engines so it says .
I am about to break in an engine this spring. I AIN'T paying $9 PER QUART!!!!!!
.... not gonna pay 60 bucks for oil to break in a fresh engine. How many $$$$ do you have in to the build and is it worth the gamble to save 40 bucks? They don't make oil, or cam and lifters, like they use to !
FYI, I use to be an "oil is oil" guy, but have seen enough carnage in the past decade to get off that horse and spend the dough... and it costs almost double the $'s of what you stated up here....
FYI, I use to be an "oil is oil" guy, but have seen enough carnage in the past decade to get off that horse and spend the dough... and it costs almost double the $'s of what you stated up here....
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Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
That’s cheap. There is zero reason to not use a break in oil. It speeds up break in and makes it easier on the rings. I think I paid 12 bucks a quart for break in oil and was glad to do it.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
I just bought a case of the Driven GP1 20w50 a couple weeks ago. $60 bucks plus a filter isn’t too bad for an oil change with quality oil. ;)
Driven Racing Oil 19506 Driven Racing Oil GP-1 Synthetic Blend High Performance Motor Oil | Summit Racing
Driven Racing Oil 19506 Driven Racing Oil GP-1 Synthetic Blend High Performance Motor Oil | Summit Racing
T56MaxTorq
Well-Known Member
The heavy cam lube just dissolves and becomes the break in oil within minutes. Instant fire-up is what’s necessary.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
I use
•LubriPlate 105 assembly grease on the main, rod bearings, timing chain and other lightly loaded surfaces.
•Moroso Moly cam lube on the cam lobes and lifter surfaces, push rod and rocker arm contact points.
•10w30 motor oil, non synthetic, something inexpensive with a cheap oil filter.
•Comp Cam engine break in additive, one bottle.
•Prior to the initial engine start: I am crazy particular about part cleanliness during assembly and getting clearances and torques right.
•Immediately before the engine start: with the spark plugs removed using the starter I spin the engine for 10 to 15 seconds at a time until I see oil pressure on the mechanical oil pressure gauge. Then promptly re install the spark plugs.
•At the initial engine start: I have ignition, fuel-air setting right to get a quick engine start. I will give the intake a shot of ether to assist with a quick start.
Then run the engine at 2000 to 2500 rpm for 20 minutes. Then shut the engine down and let it cool completely and re peat the 2000 to 2500 rpm for 20 minutes followed by a complete cool down.
•Start up and drive the vehicle for 20 to 25 miles at changing low to medium to very short bursts of high engine speeds and up to medium loads.
•Drain the break in oil, replace with a quality oil of choice, a good oil filter a second bottle of Comp Cam break in additive and drive the vehicle as I intend to.
I have never had a break in issue.
A successful engine start and break in is a process, one item like high priced break in oil is not going to over come other poor practices in the engine build or initial start and run in process.
•LubriPlate 105 assembly grease on the main, rod bearings, timing chain and other lightly loaded surfaces.
•Moroso Moly cam lube on the cam lobes and lifter surfaces, push rod and rocker arm contact points.
•10w30 motor oil, non synthetic, something inexpensive with a cheap oil filter.
•Comp Cam engine break in additive, one bottle.
•Prior to the initial engine start: I am crazy particular about part cleanliness during assembly and getting clearances and torques right.
•Immediately before the engine start: with the spark plugs removed using the starter I spin the engine for 10 to 15 seconds at a time until I see oil pressure on the mechanical oil pressure gauge. Then promptly re install the spark plugs.
•At the initial engine start: I have ignition, fuel-air setting right to get a quick engine start. I will give the intake a shot of ether to assist with a quick start.
Then run the engine at 2000 to 2500 rpm for 20 minutes. Then shut the engine down and let it cool completely and re peat the 2000 to 2500 rpm for 20 minutes followed by a complete cool down.
•Start up and drive the vehicle for 20 to 25 miles at changing low to medium to very short bursts of high engine speeds and up to medium loads.
•Drain the break in oil, replace with a quality oil of choice, a good oil filter a second bottle of Comp Cam break in additive and drive the vehicle as I intend to.
I have never had a break in issue.
A successful engine start and break in is a process, one item like high priced break in oil is not going to over come other poor practices in the engine build or initial start and run in process.
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