Budget shocks for Duster

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1973dust

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Looking for suggestions for an affordable shock that any of you have experience with on a Duster. Not building a road racer as I'm only running 14" tires, 225/70 rear and 205/70 front. I do have a 1 1/8" front Hellwig sway bar to install at some point as my research on here says that will eliminate a lot of body roll. Car has stock rear springs and .87 torsion bars at stock ride height. Just looking for a little firmer or more controlled ride. Not sure about age of shocks currently on the car.
 
Always liked kyb's, white ones are stiff...the silver are still firm but a smoother less translating of terrain to your seat
 
Bilstein if you have a little more money.
 
The Bilstein would certainly be nice, but I can't justify that kind of money. On the KYB's, I've seen several people that have said they actually raised the ride height because of the gas charge. I don't want that to happen. When you refer to silver KYB's, do you have a name that KYB uses? I saw they have one called an Excel-G. As far as Monroes, I have seen several people recommend them. Do you have a particular model of Monroe in mind?
 
As far as Monroes, I have seen several people recommend them. Do you have a particular model of Monroe in mind?

I have Monroe monro-matic plus on my Charger, they ride good.
 
Just buy a set of stock replacement Monroe's. KYB's cost more than they do and ride for absolute garbage. I ran KYB's on my Challenger for years, I swapped them out for a set of Bilsteins and those KYB's went straight in the trash. It was like a whole new car and that was the only change made.

With small torsion bars and stock components I'd just run Monroe's. And on that note, you shouldn't be looking to the shocks to firm up the ride. That's what the springs are for. The sway bar will help, but those .87" torsion bars are the real problem. Adding stiff shocks like KYB's is a band aid for an overly soft spring. Fix the springs, then work on matching the shocks to the springs.
 
Just buy a set of stock replacement Monroe's. KYB's cost more than they do and ride for absolute garbage. I ran KYB's on my Challenger for years, I swapped them out for a set of Bilsteins and those KYB's went straight in the trash. It was like a whole new car and that was the only change made.

With small torsion bars and stock components I'd just run Monroe's. And on that note, you shouldn't be looking to the shocks to firm up the ride. That's what the springs are for. The sway bar will help, but those .87" torsion bars are the real problem. Adding stiff shocks like KYB's is a band aid for an overly soft spring. Fix the springs, then work on matching the shocks to the springs.

I have Monroe monro-matic plus on my Charger, they ride good.

Thanks, you guys have confirmed the info that I had gathered so far. Upgrading the t-bars is not on the table right now so I think I will go with the Monro-matics.
 
Just buy a set of stock replacement Monroe's. KYB's cost more than they do and ride for absolute garbage. I ran KYB's on my Challenger for years, I swapped them out for a set of Bilsteins and those KYB's went straight in the trash. It was like a whole new car and that was the only change made.

With small torsion bars and stock components I'd just run Monroe's. And on that note, you shouldn't be looking to the shocks to firm up the ride. That's what the springs are for. The sway bar will help, but those .87" torsion bars are the real problem. Adding stiff shocks like KYB's is a band aid for an overly soft spring. Fix the springs, then work on matching the shocks to the springs.
Just buy a set of stock replacement Monroe's. KYB's cost more than they do and ride for absolute garbage. I ran KYB's on my Challenger for years, I swapped them out for a set of Bilsteins and those KYB's went straight in the trash. It was like a whole new car and that was the only change made.

With small torsion bars and stock components I'd just run Monroe's. And on that note, you shouldn't be looking to the shocks to firm up the ride. That's what the springs are for. The sway bar will help, but those .87" torsion bars are the real problem. Adding stiff shocks like KYB's is a band aid for an overly soft spring. Fix the springs, then work on matching the shocks to the springs.
Any shock is garbage when it goes bad.. and seems like pos when you replace it with a really 'high end' one like Bilstein.
This is a budget purpose, and those Monroe basic parts store piece of **** shocks with no warranty.... he might as well buy whatever store brand there is for the same price because what you recommend are total garbage and an equal to such... but hey we love spending other peoples money...so let's go from I need affordable shocks to buying torsion bars, that when you install ...figure out the entire suspension should be rebuilt, so now change lower control arm bushings, strut rod bushings..and hey you're there so just buy all new ball joints and inner outer tie rods...and really the mopar stuffers from some bump steer...so let's slot and weld the idler mount on the k frame...

What is the OP doing with the car again?

Love spending other peoples money, snowball city here we come!
 
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Thanks, you guys have confirmed the info that I had gathered so far. Upgrading the t-bars is not on the table right now so I think I will go with the Monro-matics.

Sounds like a plan!

PST’s 1.03” bars are probably the best value out there. They offer a FABO member discount too! Still a couple Benjamin’s though, I get it. But don’t be afraid of the size of those bars, with the right shocks they’re a great size for a street car. A lot of people here run them.

In the meantime, adding the front sway bar will definitely help with some of that body roll. And if your current shocks are toast you might see a small improvement even with the new Monroe’s.
 
Any shock is garbage when it goes bad.. and seems like pos when you replace it with a really 'high end' one like Bilstein.
This is a budget purpose, and those Monroe basic parts store piece of **** shocks with no warranty.... he might as well buy whatever store brand there is for the same price because what you recommend are total garbage and an equal to such... but hey we love spending other peoples money...so let's go from I need affordable shocks to buying torsion bars, that when you install ...figure out the entire suspension should be rebuilt, so now change lower control arm bushings, strut rod bushings..and hey you're there so just buy all new ball joints and inner outer tie rods...and really the mopar stuffers from some bump steer...so let's slot and weld the idler mount on the k frame...

What is the OP doing with the car again?

Love spending other peoples money, snowball city here we come!

Bullshit alert

If you actually bothered to read my post, I told him to buy a set of Monroe's for the really expensive price of about $18 each. Bilsteins are overkill for the stock suspension. They're light years better than KYB's and Monroe's, and they will absolutely make an improvement. But with the stock suspension they're just overly expensive.

My KYB's were not "bad" when I replaced them, which is to say they were not blown out or worn out. They were working just as designed. Unfortunately, "as designed" is mediocre at best, which was highlighted dramatically when I replaced them with a shock that was intended for use with my larger torsion bars. KYB's are used by guys that don't like their soft suspension but don't understand suspension theory. So they band aid their too soft suspension with a too stiff shock. Which results in piss poor handling, because NOTHING is working as it's intended to. Too stiff of a shock overdamps the suspension, and keeps the suspension from working as intended. With an undersprung set up like Mopars are from the factory it might feel a little better by the seat of the pants, but that's ride quality, not handling. It only feels like it's working better because it's making the ride unnecessarily stiff, not because it's actually improving your handling.

As for the rest of it, if replacing the torsion bars shows you that the entire suspension should be rebuilt, then the entire suspension needed to be rebuilt anyway. What's your argument there? That you should drive around on worn out suspension singing "ignorance is bliss" until something fails and you end up in a ditch? Yeah, most of these cars are like 50 years old. If the suspension hasn't been rebuilt already it needs to be. Heck, if it hasn't been rebuilt recently it still might need to be rebuilt, even 30 year old suspension bushings are too damn old.

As far as bump steer, old Mopars suffer less from bump steer than every other musclecar out there. Their bumpsteer numbers are actually pretty darn good for a street car. And if you slot your idler mount to fix it, well, you obviously shouldn't do suspension work. Ever. On anything. Because clearly you have no idea what you're talking about.
 
The blue NAPA gas charged soft ride shocks worked pretty well in my experience with worn springs and torsion bars. There are probably a lot better shocks out there, but they were good for the money when I last used them. They were basically backdoor Monroe shocks. But one factor is that more often than not rough roads here tend to make a sub par shock absorber the best overall value.
 
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