bumper bracket

Mopar Body and Trim

  1. ccff88

    ccff88 Well-Known Member

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    can i shave 1 1/2in on front and back bumper bracket on a 74 dart to eliminate that ugly space?
     
  2. ccff88

    ccff88 Well-Known Member

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    Anyone???
     
  3. dusted72

    dusted72 Thanks Hemiroid!!!!

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    Supposedly you can drill a small hole in the tube and push in the bumper and then put a spot weld over the hole to keep the fluid from draining out.
     
  4. Burntorange70

    Burntorange70 Well-Known Member

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    Yep. If it has the shock type mounts you can do that. You want to drill a hole in them then let the fluid drain out, push the bumpers in where you want them and then weld the hole back up to lock them back in to place.
     
  5. ccff88

    ccff88 Well-Known Member

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    Ok drill hole drain fluid but the bracket can't be adjusted unless it's literally cut. And by cut, I mean having a 2 inch section cut out to bring in the bumpers..
     
  6. dusted72

    dusted72 Thanks Hemiroid!!!!

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    The brackets are just shocks, when you drill the hole in them they can compress. Just like a shock. This will suck the bumpers in as close to the body as you dare to go. There should be no cutting involved. Just drill the holes push the bumper closer to the body and weld the holes shut.
     
  7. Burntorange70

    Burntorange70 Well-Known Member

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    Does your car have shock mounts or brackets? Think 74 is a limbo year where you can have either or. Sorry should of asked that first.
     
  8. dodge71demon

    dodge71demon Well-Known Member

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    The bumper has a heavy spring in them to push them back out
    my 74 scamp does not have these on front but my 75 does maybe try to find
    some mounts of a 73 or 74 you will also need the lower fender support rods
     
  9. rapom65

    rapom65 Well-Known Member

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    I just did this on my '74 Duster, it had bumper brackets on the front and shock mounts on the rear from the factory. The front is fairly easy to do, the rear more involved. The shocks had very little oil and VERY stout springs in them. I drilled a hole and drained the oil but couldn't compress the springs enough so ended up cutting the shock body in half and discarding the guts. Bolt the cut end tubes back to the bumper and then it can slide back into the frame mounts (essentially a tube within a tube). You can then weld the tubes together where you want the bumper to sit. The front requires a little drill work. I also half mooned the new hole in the angled bracket with a hole saw to make it flat for the bolt head to tighten against. I'll post pics this evening when I get home.
     
  10. ccff88

    ccff88 Well-Known Member

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    Looks like a little bit of work but I think I got my answer. Those pics would be cool to check out. Thanks
     
  11. 75Sport

    75Sport Grandpa

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    On my 75 I removed all the shock absorbing systems from both the front and the back including both bumpers and backing plates. I bought fiberglass bumpers and fabricated aluminum brackets to tuck both bumpers close to the body. I don't have the front finished yet but I weighed everything I removed and subtracted the glass bumpers and aluminum brackets and saved almost 300 lbs!
    I intend to have both bumpers done with CosmiChrome when finished. Of course I no longer have any collision protection front or rear but the weight savings is what I was after in the first place. Dan
     
  12. dodge71demon

    dodge71demon Well-Known Member

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    Yes the bumpers are very heavy with the steel reinforcement behind them
     
  13. Burntorange70

    Burntorange70 Well-Known Member

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    Ya my 75 Duster bumpers and shock mounts were around 80LB each.
     
  14. rapom65

    rapom65 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry for the delay in posting the pics I promised the other day.
    Front bumper mod:
    Pic 1: Two bolts mount the bumper brackets to the "frame" on each side. On my '74 there were two holes drilled in the factory brackets forward of where the two haves come together. Rear hole (oblong) is factory bolt location for the forward mount bolt. The other hole is convieniently 1.5" forward of factory mounting bolt hole.
    Pic 2: Rear factory mounting hole (oblong) and new mounting hole 1.5" forward of old hole. This location is not flat as the bracket are "Y"ing off from each other. I drilled a 1/4" hole for the hole saw pilot bit and half mooned the bracket. Using a big brass punch I flattened out the metal so the head of the bolt would have a flat to press against. Although probably not necessary I will put a weld on the back side of the "moon" before final paint.
    Pic 3: I eliminated the inner bumper brace that in my eyes was useless weight. Slap in the bolts and this is what you end up with.
     

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  15. rapom65

    rapom65 Well-Known Member

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    Rear bumper mod:
    Pic 1: Remove nut off shaft and the shock body will slide out of the mount housing which bolts to the frame.
    Pic 2: Cut shock in half. There is a big spring in there that does not need to be cut through. Discard all this. Keep the piece that bolts to the bumper (stub).
    Pic 3: Bolt shock stub back onto bumper brace like original. Leave it loose.
    Pic 4: Shock stubs will slide back into frame mounts. Tighten stub nuts. Set the depth you want and weld the stub to the frame mount. Done.
     

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  16. rapom65

    rapom65 Well-Known Member

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    Pic 5: Finished product. Both mods eliminate the filler panels between the bumpers and the body.
     

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  17. ccff88

    ccff88 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the pics. It looks clean. I did what u said and it looks good. Will post pics ASAP. Thanks for all your help
     
  18. rapom65

    rapom65 Well-Known Member

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    Glad I could help. Be sure to post those pics.
     
  19. ccff88

    ccff88 Well-Known Member

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    Hey sorry I haven't posted pics of the brackets but the dart is still in the shop and I've been working like a dog so I have been able to snap up some pics. Will do ASAP, whenever that will be, thanks again
     
  20. dart67

    dart67 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Thanks for the information
     
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