Burning up pushrods!

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I have never seen a W2 rocker shaft where the oil holes were drilled in the correct place. I burnt many a push rod as well before I found that out.


Preach it. Chrysler never sent out a real W2 rocker shaft that I’ve seen. They ALL have T/A oil holes.

I’ve had to drill the shafts to W2 offset so many times I can’t remember. It’s a PITA but killing adjusters and pushrods is far worse.
 
Props to @Oldmanmopar for calling it early in the thread.
I could not count how many push rods we saw burned up for this reason. Also cheap *** rockers with all different size adjuster cups on customers engines that come to the machine shop. . Some were so tight hey split the cups. And they came in sets with the rockers . 16 rockers and 2 or 3 cups way to tight. You only get what you pay for. And its the builder that needs to check all these clearances. I would have never thought to get different size adjusters cups in the same rocker arm sets.

Caught two when the clatter came from a solid cam. The clearance was set. Then after start up the ball end sank all the way in the cup. Loosened the clearance and started the clatter. Should have caught it with the different thread count on the adjuster. But they didn't
 
PRW has one. That’s what I use on my W2 setup with pushrod and shaft oiling.
View attachment 1716408898View attachment 1716408897
The crane rockers picture above are the worse I have ever seen for the money you spend. Heavy spring pressure destroys the roller tip. Had an engine where the roller tip fell apart the rocker pushed on the retainer, The keepers came out at High RPM's and down dropped the valve. That was the end of the engine block and head. See them on many GM engines and they usually all have loose roller tips when they come in for refresh.

We run T&D or Harland Sharp rockers on engines with high spring pressure

Norse or comp ductile iron for lower budget endurance performance race engines with roller tip.

All others , if adjustable rockers are required for adjustment the 273 iron style work just fine with lock nuts installed.

Hemis are a different animal. Ray Barton or Stage V are prefered. $4500 and up.

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I thought similar too early on with own stuff did the same thing. As good of a reputation as Smith Brothers has I'm surprised this has not come up before.
 
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