Bushings for Clutch Rod?

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fenderman33

fenderman33

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Portsmouth, VA
1972 Dodge Dart, Small Block, Overdrive 4 Speed-

On the rod that connects the clutch pedal to the z-bar are there supposed to be any bushings in it? I put my clutch linkage together today after modifying the zbar to fit with the doug's headers and it still seems to have allot of slop in the clutch pedal rod after adjusting the clutch.
Thanks for any help.
-Jon
 
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CSK

CSK.jpg
 
I have the plastic bushings in the Z-bar, no problems.
The clutch pedal rods are being shaped like half of an oval, how is that to fit snugly on the round pins on the zbar and pedal without moving when the pedal is pressed and released? I have the nylon washers on the clips installed, but something still isn't right.
Thanks,
Jon
 
Interesting, my linkage doesn't have what Brewer's calls the grommet on the clutch adjuster. Where on the adjuster rod is that installed?
Also, in the first picture and link you posted there is a part that Brewer's calls the ball stud seals which I don't believe I have either. Where are those installed?
Thanks for the quick replies.
-Jon
 
According to the diagram there isn't anything but the nylon washer and the clips there. I'll have to take a picture when I get back to the shop tomorrow to see if I can show it better than describe it. These are all the same parts I had in my Duster without issue, but maybe I just tried to forget.
Thanks allot,
-Jon
 
I see the seals in the Zbar, but I don't believe that's where my issue is, rather in the clutch rod itself. I don't see any other seals, but I could be missing something?
-Jon

Valiant422 said:
look closer, the seal is there, and it goes onto the ball's, and is a pain in the rear to get on.
Click to expand...
 
Valiant422 said:
look closer, the seal is there, and it goes onto the ball's, and is a pain in the rear to get on.
Click to expand...

I cut the arm off of the z bar that attaches to the adjuster rod and moved it closer to the bellhousing to clear the headers. It's clocked in the same position as it was, just closer to the bellhousing and then the arm was heated and bent to line up straight with the fork.
Ill get some pictures in the morning of the issue with the rod.
I appreciate the help.
-Jon
 
Here are the pictures of the clutch rod. Hopefully you can see how much movement there is of the pedal before it starts actually moving the rod.
It has the same movement on the clutch rod to zbar point, but I couldn't get a good picture of it.
Thanks,
Jon

phpPbmHH8AM.jpg


phpdoSYoHAM.jpg
 
You should have about an inch of play at the pedal before the release bearing hits the clutch. The holes in the clutch rod are supposed to be oval. Don't know why, but they just are.

Antoon
 
they are supposed to be D shaped.

I really don't see anything wrong in the pix.

I imagine if there is a lot of slop, I'd be making sure your weld didn't break, and that the adjustment rod isn't pushing thru the fork, and that the fork is properly installed
 
Jon,

The spring on the clutch fork should help take up the slack. Check out my post at link below. When you go through my post you can see where I used some nylon spacers (bought at Lowe's) to help with the "slop" in the linkage (picture with me using small screw driver as pointer). They are very durable but not sure how long they will hold up.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=60549

By the way did you put the SS springs you bought from me on your car?
 
Valiant422 said:
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AK448

AK448.jpg
Click to expand...


Screw that Brewers overpriced crap. That grommet is not correct and is crap. I got one of those years ago from Mopar Performance. Didn't work that well and the grommet didn't take the heat from my headers.

Here's the correct one from PG Classic. http://moparplus.com/product_info.php?cPath=59&products_id=100
Notice it has the correct ball that fits into the end of the clutch fork better. It's what I have now on my Demon and all is working well. It's also alot cheaper $29 compared to Brewer's $42.95. Since you're in the States, BEA Parts has it for $27. http://www.beaparts.com/list_items.aspx?body=A&cat=E&subcat=28
http://www.beaparts.com/showlargeimage.aspx?id=225FB8&filetype=large image


Wylde1.
 
Wylde1 said:
Screw that Brewers overpriced crap. That grommet is not correct and is crap. I got one of those years ago from Mopar Performance. Didn't work that well and the grommet didn't take the heat from my headers.

Here's the correct one from PG Classic. http://moparplus.com/product_info.php?cPath=59&products_id=100
Notice it has the correct ball that fits into the end of the clutch fork better. It's what I have now on my Demon and all is working well. It's also alot cheaper $29 compared to Brewer's $42.95. Since you're in the States, BEA Parts has it for $27. http://www.beaparts.com/list_items.aspx?body=A&cat=E&subcat=28
http://www.beaparts.com/showlargeimage.aspx?id=225FB8&filetype=large image

Wylde1.
Click to expand...


Easy now, I was using the pic as an example of the adjustment rod.

And I have actually seen all 3 pieces on cars. Maybe a OLD timer that actually wrenched on these things new could tell us whats correct.

I still think the OP problem is in the Z bar, as this is the piece that changed.
 
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