BY-passing heater

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63TOAD

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I want to know how cars with heater delete
are plumbed. Can I just run a hose from the water
pump to the intake without causing an over-
heating condition? This is on a 360 LA with an
Edelbrock Performer intake. Thank you everyone.
What little I know about Mopars I have learned
in this forum. Thanks again.
 
yes sir
just run a short section of hose from the waterpump outlet (the hot hose on the heater) to the return port on the intake (cold hose on the heater) and remove all the heater hoses and plug them at the firewall
 
Heater delete cars had two rubber caps with hose clamps holding them on.
 
use the caps... saw them on the bag... they look better
 
Thanks for the fast answers. This forum is my
go to for GOOD answers. Thanks again
 
Is there a reason for plugging the ports? My heater core died a few years ago and I never have run caps or plugs.
 
I never capped the ports in the core. I used a plug in the pump on the return and tapped the discharge and put a plug in that. I think it was 1/4 NPT
 
Leadfoot said:
I never capped the ports in the core. I used a plug in the pump on the return and tapped the discharge and put a plug in that. I think it was 1/4 NPT
Click to expand...

Ah. That makes sense. I was under the impression that everyone was capping their core and couldn’t figure out the need to do so.
 
I kind of wonder if the core is good anymore. If I ever do decide to put it back in use I'll find out.
 
Leadfoot said:
I kind of wonder if the core is good anymore. If I ever do decide to put it back in use I'll find out.
Click to expand...

Mine was roached. I was driving around one day and started smelling anti freeze real bad but I wasn’t running hot. I got home and started sniffing around and found out it was leaking from the heater core. It sucks getting that stuff out of carpet.
 
The rubber caps can be found in the "HELP" section of the AP store (Or on line at that "HELP" company?)
while others have tapped the outlets for plugs. The plugs are a more permeant final solution I think but harder to do.
 
Pretty easy to tap the pump housing hose barb, just stuff a piece of soft foam or even paper towel into the port to catch shavings, and slowly run the tap, little at a time, backing out to clear cutter threads often. The casting of the barb can be irregular in thickness and the hole offset sometimes, thinner on one side, and if too aggressive with the tap you may split the barb. I used liquid thread sealer, screwed in the 1/4npt plug until snug. No leaks.

IMG_20180211_083427.jpg
 
63TOAD said:
Thanks for the fast answers. This forum is my
go to for GOOD answers. Thanks again
Click to expand...
If You're re-creating a factory heater-delete, correct rubber caps & OE clamps as stated above. If You're simply bypassing it permanently for racing etc., I would use the
pipe plug method leadfoot & 12many have described. Many '80's FWD Mopars had "crossover" Radiator application, some had the heater hoses on the rad tanks, some not.
The replacements would come w/the fitting for the hose, and a cap if it was unused, those caps can/will eventually leak/fail.
 
Kind of redneck, but I took a short piece of heater hose off of the water pump and capped it with a mag wheel lug nut and hose clamps. Did the same at the intake fitting.
 
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