Cam swap

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WTruo

WTruo

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Hey guys, so basically I'm finally going to put some money into my old pickup. It's a 1986 D150, auto w/360 LA. It's all stock except for a nice dent on the passenger door. I will be swapping in a holley sniper efi kit soon but I'm wanting to get some other mods out of the way first, hei distributor, edelbrock intake, headers.

Which brings me to the cam swap. I called up comp and we spoke for a bit and they gave me this kit #K20-214-4. I'm not looking for crazy power gains, all I want is a small lobe noise.

So I've been doing my research and this forums seems to be the most active when it comes to the dodge scene. It's been a pain trying to get info since sbm info isn't as plentiful as chevy or ford.

So my question is, will this cam swap be a straight forward job? I'm not new to wrenching but my experience is only with newer gm ls engines. My friend who is helping me has wrenched on older gm and ford engines.

What special tools will I need? I was reading on a few books about a tool to hold the camshaft in place while I install the timing chain and sprocket so the cam doesn't knock out a plug on the back.

I am ordering an adjustable pushrod to measure pushrod length.

I appreciate any and all advice, tips.

Sorry for the novel lol.
 
Ive never heard of a tool to hold the cam so you don't knock the cam plug out putting on the cam gear.

It's pretty straight forward really. You shouldn't have any out of the ordinary problems. Just make sure you degree the cam.
 
Only thing that’s a “pitfall” a lot of people go dot to dot (cam mark at 6 o’clock and crank mark at 12) this sets up the #6 cylinder to be firing. Crank at 12 and cam at 12 sets #1. Lot of people seem to install dot to dot and set distributor at #1 and fight getting it to fire because distributor is 180 out.
 
yellow rose said:
Ive never heard of a tool to hold the cam so you don't knock the cam plug out putting on the cam gear.

It's pretty straight forward really. You shouldn't have any out of the ordinary problems. Just make sure you degree the cam.
Click to expand...

Do you have a link or a youtube video with a methond on the way a cam should be degreed that you agree with?
 
Dubob said:
Only thing that’s a “pitfall” a lot of people go dot to dot (cam mark at 6 o’clock and crank mark at 12) this sets up the #6 cylinder to be firing. Crank at 12 and cam at 12 sets #1. Lot of people seem to install dot to dot and set distributor at #1 and fight getting it to fire because distributor is 180 out.
Click to expand...

So when installing the chain set them both at 12 so I can drop in the distributor to fire it off?
 
WTruo said:
Hey guys, so basically I'm finally going to put some money into my old pickup. It's a 1986 D150, auto w/360 LA. It's all stock except for a nice dent on the passenger door. I will be swapping in a holley sniper efi kit soon but I'm wanting to get some other mods out of the way first, hei distributor, edelbrock intake, headers.

Which brings me to the cam swap. I called up comp and we spoke for a bit and they gave me this kit #K20-214-4. I'm not looking for crazy power gains, all I want is a small lobe noise.

So I've been doing my research and this forums seems to be the most active when it comes to the dodge scene. It's been a pain trying to get info since sbm info isn't as plentiful as chevy or ford.

So my question is, will this cam swap be a straight forward job? I'm not new to wrenching but my experience is only with newer gm ls engines. My friend who is helping me has wrenched on older gm and ford engines.

What special tools will I need? I was reading on a few books about a tool to hold the camshaft in place while I install the timing chain and sprocket so the cam doesn't knock out a plug on the back.

I am ordering an adjustable pushrod to measure pushrod length.

I appreciate any and all advice, tips.

Sorry for the novel lol.
Click to expand...


Comp cams video from their website.

 
Make sure you use plenty of lube on the cam and a break in oil with plenty of zinc for cam break in. Then after make sure you use an oil with sufficient zinc to keep the flat tappet cam happy (an oil such as valvoline VR1, there's many others too with sufficient zinc).
 
WTruo said:
Do you have a link or a youtube video with a methond on the way a cam should be degreed that you agree with?
Click to expand...


The video above is fine if you are doing it with the head on. I always degree the cam with the head off if I can, and I never turn the crank backwards degreeing the cam.

There should be some decent videos out there.
 
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