can i bypass the ammeter.

[abodyhotrod]

the amp gauge in the stock dash has two wires on the back of it can i just bypass the meter or is there a regulator or sumthing in there.
the reason is i got a volt meter for the new dash and it has a different wiring setup.
or should i just order an ammeter.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

look on my alt post... it shows how theres a link

 

[MOPARJ]

You can go about it by going through the more thorough Mad Electric method, or you could do it the quick way, which would be to run a 10-12 gauge wire from the alt charge post to the positive connector on the battery. This is not as effective, but it does work in reducing the amount of voltage that is passing through the ammeter, thus greatly reducing the risk of a wiring failure or ammeter meltdown. The ammeter will read lower, as less power from the alt is passing through the wires that pass through the bulkhead connector and the ammeter. You may want to add a voltmeter to display accurate readings.

-Justin

 

[OldVart]

I just removed the wire from the left post of the ammeter and moved it over to the right post. Now both wires are on the right post and the ammeter is bypassed. Problem solved.

 

[abodyhotrod]

thank you man i had a feeling it should work.

 

[AdamR]

thank you man i had a feeling it should work.

It will work but make sure you cover it. If it arks on something you'll be roasting marshmallows over your burning Dart

 

[speedyb-cc]

I agree with Adam, be careful, these old Mopars are known for electrical problems, especially the bulkhead connector. Make sure you check for hot spots after any mods.
Bruce

 

[Phantom70Duster]

.In my 1970 Duster I have replaced the amp meter with a volt meter.The red and black wire has to be connected to complete the circuit.In the Oct 2008 Mopar Action page 70,they have a article dealing the charging system.

 

[superdart]

I just went ahead and completely abandoned the whole Ampmeter circuit. I ran a 4awg wire from the alternator (100amp) to buss bar (or battery, if yours is still under the hood). I completely removed all the ampmeter wiring that went through the bulkhead connector.

 

[2 Darts]

I've put the two wires on the same post with no problem. In my case, the engine would start but die as soon as I released the key. Seems the Ammeter is on the run circuit. So when it fries, the car dies.