Car stops running....

[Gottalovemopars]

73 duster 318.
Without any notice the car will "die" (stop running). Tends to happen when I take my food out of the pedal. Idles great drives great but once you start to drive (gently or rough) off the line the car stops running.
The car won't bogg out or hesitate... it gives you no warning you just all of the suddden won't have a running car.

Today I took my foot off the gas pedal and it died.
And again today a few more times when the street light turned green.

Have an edelbrock 4 bbl that has given me no issues till yesterday.

Timed it, ajusted the gas/air inlet screws, idle speed, fuel pump is only 3 months old, fuel filter is only 6 months old too.

Ideas?

 

[67cuda360]

Can you give us some more details? Is it a manual or automatic, what is your timing set at, what is your idle RPM set at in neutral and in drive (holding the brake for automatic)?

You mention it idles great and drives great doesn't bog or hesitate, so does this only happen when you let go of the gas? Have you checked for vacuum leaks around the manifold or carb?

Have you checked the floats in the carb just to make sure they are set correctly?

Does it also die when you shift from neutral into drive (automatic)?

 

[Gottalovemopars]

Automatic. Timing is set at 2 advanced. Not sure exactly what the idle rpm is set at but again idles great.

Tends to happen when I'm off the gas was at 1/2 throttle yesterday pulled my foot out of it and it died.
Again today was idleing at a light turned green then after about 150 feet it died again.

Checked the floats today and are set properly.

Yup no problem shifting from neutral to drive and back or neutral to reverse and back.

 

[Gottalovemopars]

Oops yes I checked for vacuume leaks found one at the back of the manifold.
Other than that theres none. Think that manifold could cause such an issue?

 

[rob_robinson87]

Can you see the fuel in the fuel filter? Are you vapor locking or heat soak? Any sort of insulator under the carb?

 

[Bulldozer]

...and you have plugged the vacuum port in the back of the carb (if you arent using it)

i would suggest that after you have ran it for awhile , shut it off, pull the air cleaner and look/listen for any fuel percolating in the carb or dripping from the boosters...

 

[67cuda360]

vacuum leaks will do all kinds of irritating things LOL, so try to figure out where the leak is and fix it. That might very well be your issue.

Did the car die after driving 150 feet with your foot on the accelerator or did you lift off after about 150 feet and then it died..?

If your timing is set at only 2 degrees BTDC (before top dead center) that is pretty low and could be part of the problem. Do you know what the full mechanical timing is set at (vacuum advance disconnected and carb port plugged, holding the rpm around 3000)?

Is there a big Idle RPM difference between having the car in neutral and then shifting it into drive?

Do you notice any RPM drop when you press the brakes at idle?

 

[Gottalovemopars]

Yup there is fuel in the filter. I know it's not vapor lock, however I'm not familiar of the term heat soak.
Nope, no insulator under the carb.

 

[67cuda360]

Does the car start up quickly and easily just after it dies or does it take a lot of effort?

 

[Gottalovemopars]

...and you have plugged the vacuum port in the back of the carb (if you arent using it)

i would suggest that after you have ran it for awhile , shut it off, pull the air cleaner and look/listen for any fuel percolating in the carb or dripping from the boosters...

Yes I have plugged it.
Good to know I'll check that out. Thanks!

 

[67cuda360]

heat soak is the fuel boiling out of the carb bowls, this can happen from the heat transfer from a hot intake and usually creates an issue trying to start a car shortly after a long drive.

 

[Gottalovemopars]

vacuum leaks will do all kinds of irritating things LOL, so try to figure out where the leak is and fix it. That might very well be your issue.

Did the car die after driving 150 feet with your foot on the accelerator or did you lift off after about 150 feet and then it died..?

If your timing is set at only 2 degrees BTDC (before top dead center) that is pretty low and could be part of the problem. Do you know what the full mechanical timing is set at (vacuum advance disconnected and carb port plugged, holding the rpm around 3000)?

Is there a big Idle RPM difference between having the car in neutral and then shifting it into drive?


Do you notice any RPM drop when you press the brakes at idle?

My foot was just barely on the accelerator When it died that time.
""Do you know what the full mechanical timing is set at (vacuum advance disconnected and carb port plugged, holding the rpm around 3000)? ""
Nope.

There's no idle difference (that I can tell) when shifting from neutral to drive.

Didn't notice any rpm drop when on the break either.


It takes a HUGE effort to start it up again after it dies (yes it is in either neutral or park) And alot of the time it just will keep cranking and cranking. Till about the 4th or 5 th try.

 

[67cuda360]

Hm, sounds like a fuel issue.
Couple things I would suggest;

first up the initial timing to around 10 -12 degrees BTDC that's still pretty save and shouldn't create any pinging at higher RPM if you do hear any pinging, then back it off 1-2 degrees at a time.

Second I would put a insulator (phenolic) spacer between the intake and the carb, just for peace of mind (also helps a bit in the performance department LOL).

Third, check all the fuel line routing, make sure they don't run too close to the exhaust system or engine block. Check the rubber fuel lines especially close to the tank, these tend to deteriorate, letting air into the fuel mix and creating all kinds of fuel starvation issues.

And find that vacuum leak at the intake, car will not run good with any vacuum leaks

 

[Bulldozer]

sounds to me like it is flooding or vapor locking OR it is running out of fuel

 

[Gottalovemopars]

Hm, sounds like a fuel issue.
Couple things I would suggest;

first up the initial timing to around 10 -12 degrees BTDC that's still pretty save and shouldn't create any pinging at higher RPM if you do hear any pinging, then back it off 1-2 degrees at a time.

Second I would put a insulator (phenolic) spacer between the intake and the carb, just for peace of mind (also helps a bit in the performance department LOL).

Third, check all the fuel line routing, make sure they don't run too close to the exhaust system or engine block. Check the rubber fuel lines especially close to the tank, these tend to deteriorate, letting air into the fuel mix and creating all kinds of fuel starvation issues.

And find that vacuum leak at the intake, car will not run good with any vacuum leaks

Thank you. :thumleft: