Went and looked at a 72 factory yellow demon the other day three speed 340 car must have been kind of rare seems that someone had done some auto body work on it and painted it but the car was waving at you when you look down it....it had so many discrepancies in the body work that could have been fixed by just block sanding..your thoughts..is there more probably hiding underneath
Cars that were not block sanded after bodywork before paint...
- Thread starter Mtrhead
- Start date
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Icetech
Well-Known Member
Problem is you never know how much paint you have to work with... i just put 2 heavy coats of urethane on my engine bay and broke through as soon as i hit it with 1000grit.. waiting to reshoot now...
All depends on the price.. paint alone is crazy expensive now, let alone paying a bodyshop
All depends on the price.. paint alone is crazy expensive now, let alone paying a bodyshop
....probably trying to duplicate the quality it rolled off the assembly line with.....
A56
Street Survivor
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
They definitely weren't the straightest cars. That's why you see lots of mud on them say like on graveyard cars and other shows. Look at my AMD quarter.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
It may be the sign of a sick mind, but I like the meticulous aspect of prepping; specially the block sanding. This is where the results of your body work "POPS' out at you. You may have to fix a few places, prime again and block sand again, but is still very rewarding. when I am completely done block sanding down to 400 (220-320-400), I wet sand with 320, 400 and then 600 on a medium soft sanding block. While the area is wet, you can see how it will look with clear on it. It is very rewarding.
I mean, it may be wavy because there’s nothing underneath, it’s not like these cars were super straight originally.
Or it could be wavy because it’s full of filler and wasn’t sanded properly. You could check it with a magnet, but beyond that all you can do is closely inspect it.
Depends entirely on the price and what you’re looking for. Paint is expensive, and good bodywork and paint is really expensive. If you want a show car with perfect paint you’re going to pay accordingly. If driver quality is fine, well, it won’t be perfect.
Sounds like kemper's work.
Were these cars block sanded prior to body and paint on the moving assembly line? Doubt it. Pristine body and paint is pretty low on my car hobby priority list now that I'm 47 and just want to get cars on the road and having fun with them. In fact, my ratty Barracuda gets more attention than my pristine - painted 340 Dart.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
i don't think Graveyard Carz use a lot of "mud" Like all hi end shops they skim coat everything but 90% is sanded off.It's the only way to get them straight. Many shops go straight to polyester sometimes 3 coats!
I enjoy block sanding. Very relaxing and rewarding.
As for the ops question...it's way cheaper buying a car than building or restoring one but nobody knows what is underneath? I always block 'til i hit metal or ghosts ensuring most filler is gone?
I enjoy block sanding. Very relaxing and rewarding.
As for the ops question...it's way cheaper buying a car than building or restoring one but nobody knows what is underneath? I always block 'til i hit metal or ghosts ensuring most filler is gone?
Could possibly be solved by guidecoating it … then blocking it with 1000k and buffing.
Or just block the car with 600 then 800 then 1000 and respray it!
Like most have said… could be that the panels were wavy due to just factory imperfections or bad bodywork or both!
Yellow is hard color to get coverage completed on anyway… so there maybe not enough to cut, block and buff.
If you’re dead serious about the car… I would at least plan a respray regardless!
Or just block the car with 600 then 800 then 1000 and respray it!
Like most have said… could be that the panels were wavy due to just factory imperfections or bad bodywork or both!
Yellow is hard color to get coverage completed on anyway… so there maybe not enough to cut, block and buff.
If you’re dead serious about the car… I would at least plan a respray regardless!
Graveyard cars is definitely NOT a top end body shop. They use as much mud as anyone, at least based on the little I’ve seen. I’m not saying they do bad work but there’s nothing special about their body and paint work, their reputation is the whole accuracy thing.
You can absolutely get cars completely straight with metal work alone. But the folks that can do that are hard to come by and the time it takes is not something that’s cost effective for almost every shop out there.
This is really unlikely. A guide coat is thin, you’re not going to make up the difference in a wavy panel with a guide coat. It will show you what’s there, but if it’s that easy to see the panel is wavy it won’t fix it.
And you can’t just block a car and fix stuff typically unless there’s just a huge amount of filler on it that’s “extra”. Even if they did it wrong but sanded til they hit metal you’d have to apply more filler to sort it out, just blocking it can’t fix it if the high spots are metal.
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Trying to do body work... I used to be just old and woreout,,,now carpel tunnel or how ever it is spelled showed up in my right elbow. OK so I have a new excuse! among others!
If you can see waves I think you are looking at a complete body work and paint job. You can't block sand your way out of it as the waves will be bigger than the thickness of the clear (assuming its base/clear). I bought a '63 Chevy II during covid and it was the same. I was embarrassed to drive it down the road.
I guess after owning my own bodyshop and working at restoration shops over the past 40 years… you’re 100% correct!
I guess I should have been more clearer in my explanations… so to the OP… just ignore what I said.
You guys are making me nervous. I have a guy coming over today to estimate my Duster’s paint work. I don’t wanna driver, but I don’t wanna show car either. I gotta convey that to him somehow.
I know it’s not gonna be cheap. It’s been 30 or 35 years since I was involved in this kind of work, and I was able to do a lot of it myself because I worked at a place that did that kind of work. Now it’s just gonna plain old hurt!
I am going to see if I can do some of it myself. Sanding.
He’s the boss.
I know it’s not gonna be cheap. It’s been 30 or 35 years since I was involved in this kind of work, and I was able to do a lot of it myself because I worked at a place that did that kind of work. Now it’s just gonna plain old hurt!
I am going to see if I can do some of it myself. Sanding.
He’s the boss.
Oldiron440
Big blocks rule small blocks drool!
A long board and manual labor is a great way to build your upper body…
ir3333
Well-Known Member
"your not going to make up the difference in a wavy panel with guide coat" What are you even talking about?
Blocking a guide coat exposes low areas that will need attention.
how can you guys know how much material is left on a car after blocking by watching a TV show?
Blocking a guide coat exposes low areas that will need attention.
how can you guys know how much material is left on a car after blocking by watching a TV show?
ir3333
Well-Known Member
If you are building upper body strength block sanding I think you are blocking too aggressive and making waves.
Very light finger pressure is required
Very light finger pressure is required
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Having enough compressor top run a straight line air file and a big DA sure did help back when I was lucky enough to have such.
I am no artist, but body work is an art.
Hard work but rewarding. Especially if you saved yourself $5,000, $10,000, $15,000, $20,000! Or more!!!!!
I am no artist, but body work is an art.
Hard work but rewarding. Especially if you saved yourself $5,000, $10,000, $15,000, $20,000! Or more!!!!!
Once again… I should have been more clearer on my explanation… a guide coat is just that… a guide coat… to expose highs, lows, sand scratches etc…it’s not rocket science.
With no photos of the car… we and when I say “WE” I mean everyone on here giving an opinion… don’t know the extent of the “waviness”… so they may can be corrected with little effort or they cannot…bad bodywork cannot be corrected without serious Re-Blocking, Primer and Paint.
As I originally posted… Yellow is a difficult color to cover… so more than likely there’s not enough material present to even attempt to try and salvage the job!
And once again as I originally stated “If you’re dead serious about the car… I would at least plan on a respray regardless!”
ir3333
Well-Known Member
I agree!
Bad bodywork may also require more dolly work as well as heat shrinking or any number of techniques.
Bad bodywork may also require more dolly work as well as heat shrinking or any number of techniques.
The post implied that you could fix a wavy panel with a guide coat. That’s how it read, like that’s all you’d have to do. No additional work was described.
I agree, the guide coat is just to show you the problem. From there you’d need more bodywork to address the waves.
As far as for knowing how much material is left on the car just from watching, it depends on how much of the process they show. You can definitely tell if there’s “a lot” or just a skim coat on if they show you a couple shots of the same panel in process.
Oldiron440
Big blocks rule small blocks drool!
Guide coat is not a one and done deal. I use it on filler, glaze coat and primer coats even final sanding…
But I suppose it has how much give a **** you have.
But I suppose it has how much give a **** you have.
Getting it flat is a process that all people are not interested in doing and/or don't want to spray on hundreds of dollars of 2k and or filler and sand 90% of it off. I have restored 6 vehicles now and it still amazes me how long and how much material it really takes to get it flat and the bodies lines straight.
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