Carter BBD Help

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AValiant69

AValiant69

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Hey everyone I'm looking for some advice. I have a 69 Valiant that has been sitting for about a year and I've been taking my summer break from school to get it running again. Long story slightly shorter I've replaced the old points dist. while switching over to a HEI setup. I have also ditched my single barrel 1920 for a Carter BBD and the super six manifolds. Here is the problem, when I got it put together it will start but immediately dies as soon as you touch the gas causing the choke to move from the initial position. I consider myself pretty handy with a wrench but carburetors give me a headache. I rebuilt the carb making sure the float was set correctly but I am not sure about making other adjustments. If anyone could point me in the right direction as to what may be causing this issue and how to make the proper adjustments I would be grateful.

Super six w/HEI:
https://goo.gl/photos/EoySebE4WanTkyAn6
 
Update:
I was able to get it to idle by turning the curb idle screw all the way in and turning the idle mixture screws out 3 1/2 turns. It now stalls when I put it in gear.
 
Hi,

Did you switch to the HEI ignition and change the carb. at the same time?

Two changes at once can lead confusion if things don't work out right. I would check the timing first since you swapped out distributors to go to the HEI system from points. It's real easy to be a tooth off on a slant 6 when re-installing the distributor. Get the timing marks to Top Dead Center one the number 1 cylinder firing position. That is with the piston at the top of its travel with both valves closed. Make sure the rotor in the distributor is pointing to the number 1 plug wire.

On the BBD carb., they are simple carbs and easy to rebuild and set up. How did you clean it when you had it torn down. It's important to get all the small passages clean. Good solvents and compressed air help.
 
Right, timing too far retarded can cause no idle.

However the BBD is known to plug the idle fuel pickup tubes. That's the part inside the primary venturi held down by 2 screws. I'd suggest pulling the carb to remove those, otherwise you could lose a screw down the intake.

Pull the assembly off the top of the venturi cluster and inspect those two tubes that drop down into the float bowl. they have to be open and not clogged or won't idle. The way it sounds now, it's only idling because you have it cranked far enough to get into the main metering circuit instead of the idle circuit.
 
So it runs pretty good at idle now. It starts with no problems as before only now I can rev it as much as I like without it stalling.

I adjusted the carb
*Fast idle cam position
*Choke unloader
*Vacuum step up piston
*Accelerator pump stroke

The first two were good but the piston and pump were slightly off. I also wanted to check the vacuum kick but I don't have a tool to set the vacuum. I'll rent one from O'Reillys tomorrow.

I'm not in the clear yet however, as soon as I put it in gear it stalls almost instantly.

I still need to adjust the kick-down linkage from the donor vehicle; hopefully that will help.

Another problem I've found is that when timing it I cant get to 20º BTDC without stumbling. As I write this it occurs to me that the mixture may need to be thinned out before I can get it closer to 5º BTDC.

As always any thoughts or suggestions would be most welcome.
 
I think Tyler W. and I have given you what you should check out first. I don't think you are going to be able to adjust your way out of the problem. You need to make sure the basic engine timing is right and some thing is not plugged up in the carburetor. If you need help on how to proceed checking those things out please ask.
 
Ok everyone she's running now.

Turns out it was the dizzy not the carb after all. Last night I remembered I never gaped the Distributor after I rebuilt it.

Thanks to everyone for the advice, it is nice to know an amateur wrench like me has a place to turn to when stuck on a project.
 
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