Centari vs American Finishes Paints

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mokid

mokid

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I have a Dart(grocery getter) previously painted with AF base/clear and now sanded down to just the base. Put some Centari over it (test panel) and it lifted.........not too serious, just a rough finish. Has anyone here found a way to make these two brands compatible? (this is definitely a low $ project, and I have a gallon of Centari that was almost free.
 
How fresh is the American Finishes paint?If its too fresh or soft then the only way to apply the Centari is light coats,or else it will just keep lifting.Or you can try a couple of coats of sealer.Some paints are chemically hotter than others and are not very compatible.Ive seen cars that were painted at MAACO 3 yrs ago and wrinkled when a urethane base/clear is applied on top.
Most extreme option:strip off the AF paint.
 
1BadDodge71 said:
How fresh is the American Finishes paint?If its too fresh or soft then the only way to apply the Centari is light coats,or else it will just keep lifting.Or you can try a couple of coats of sealer.Some paints are chemically hotter than others and are not very compatible.Ive seen cars that were painted at MAACO 3 yrs ago and wrinkled when a urethane base/clear is applied on top.
Most extreme option:strip off the AF paint.

I agree with you. I usually "lock down" anything I'm not sure of with primer surfacer then wet sand before spraying anything different than what was on the panel before.
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The AF paint was applied about 3-4 years ago, and most of the clear has been sanded off. The Centari was applied about 24 hrs ago and has hardener in it. Think I'll wait until tomorrow, sand the panel smooth, and try the thin coat approach. I have some sealer, just want to see if I can make the Centari work. Thanks for the feedback..........james
 
Did it lift off the AF as well or just the Centari? If it lifted the AF then the problem probably lies there. What ever was laid down as a primer the first time isn't doing it's job. Especially after 3 years. JMO
 
As near as I can tell, none of the paints actually "separated" (lifted) from the steel panel. It has urethane primer under the AF paint. It's just a rough surface, like a "matte" paint finish. So I think only the Centari lifted. I'll look at it tomorrow and probably just sand everything smooth, and try the thin coat (of Centari) thing. If that doesn't work, I'll just apply another coat of urethane primer/sealer and go from there............james
 
I sanded the panel smooth (hood of car), and applied a couple thin coats of Centari. It did not "lift", but the finish is not as glossy as I would like. Just for kicks, I'm gonna try wet sanding and buffing it. How long should I wait before trying this?

I've applied the Centari to other areas (door jambs, engine compartment, etc) in thin coats as recommended and it looks just fine.

This just seems like a good opportunity to learn more about enamel. The car is ready for paint, and hopefully, I'll get it done in a week or so.
 
What grit sandpaper are you using? Too coarse and your finish won't look as shiny. Not sure what you mean by 'thin coats'. If the paint is reduced too much (too thin) it won't have the proper gloss and it may soak into the old paint which also will affect the gloss. If you don't have the proper film build (total thickness too thin) it won't be as glossy either.
I can't remember the recommended time frame for buffing Centari. Should be on the label. Generally, the longer you wait for it to cure, the better enamel buffs. If you just laid down a couple of thin coats you better wet sand with 2000 grit or you'll buff through it.
Dallas
 
Thanks Dallas. Will 1500 work, or should I buy some 2000? I'm just experimenting with the panel, so not in any hurry..........james

P.S. I was thinking of waiting two weeks before doing any sanding.
 
mokid said:
Thanks Dallas. Will 1500 work, or should I buy some 2000? I'm just experimenting with the panel, so not in any hurry..........james

P.S. I was thinking of waiting two weeks before doing any sanding.
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Personally, I prefer 2000. I sometimes use 1500 to knock down nibs quicker but follow up with 2000. Centari won't be as hard as bc/cc so sandscratches show up easier. 2000 tends to minimize them. I have even gone to 3000 wet on a d/a before but I don't do it too much. (3000 sandpaper like I use is almost $4.00 a sheet!!!).
Dallas
 
you could always apply a water bourne based primer as an isolator coat. Just make sure that you do not apply it to bare metal with out something like a vinle wash type primer in the bare areas. If you have applied centari with any metal flake in it, it will not polish well and you will create light spots as you will be exposing more of the metalic. Good luck! Other option is to strip and get rid of the "green" finish underneath, which is probably causing your problem unless there is old laquer under there.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I'll see what grits the local auto paint store has and go from there.

james
 
MOBodyman said:
Personally, I prefer 2000. I sometimes use 1500 to knock down nibs quicker but follow up with 2000. Centari won't be as hard as bc/cc so sandscratches show up easier. 2000 tends to minimize them. I have even gone to 3000 wet on a d/a before but I don't do it too much. (3000 sandpaper like I use is almost $4.00 a sheet!!!).
Dallas
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We all ways went 3000 on the D/A. It works real well however using the D/A you wont get that dead flat surface. The shine is amazing though.
 
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