Center section removal

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Lustle

Lustle

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So I'm pulling the center section on my 8-3/4 to swap up to 4.10 gears. And the thing absolutely will NOT budge. Whoever put it together. Put so much RTV on it theres a 1/4 thick bead of the stuff around the housing. It's STUCK.

Things I've done:

Drive shaft off
Axles out
Nuts removed
Studs pushed into the housing
Gasket remover on the RTV and scraped as much away as I could
Tried my small hand held pry bar that I can actually get in there with
Jacked it up just before the flange on the carrier and cap section
Banged on it with a deadblow hammer while it was jacked up
I even tried bouncing it (carefully mind you, i was a 1/4 off the jack stands and everything was supported) while jacked up on the carrier and cap section

Still hasn't budged. Being jacked up, with no studs, and the weight of the car on the center section and bouncing it didn't break it loose at all. Which really surprised me.

Any tips/tricks? I've pulled a dozen center sections out and never had this problem. At least the studs pushing in as a last resort always got it free. This time it had next to zero effect. I'm thinking it's just so much RTV that it's glued. Even when you push the studs out and you look in the hole, you see a ton of RTV. I'm about to grab the head gun and run it along where the RTV is and see if that has any affect.

Any advice is as always appreciated.
 
If there's no studs I would try and jack to one side. Try and spin it so to speak. Maybe a piece of wood against part of the webbing. Although when it comes loose you better be ready.

Or put a piece of pipe through the yoke. Sissor jack between the housing and the pipe.
 
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sometimes they need a good whack with a dead blow.

i have also unscrewed all the nuts and put a floor jack under the case by the numbers (below the yoke) and just jack it up till it pops free.
 
Acetylene torch, rosebud tip. If that doesn't work, you will need to buy a new one. Since you give a hoot and don't want to pollute and since I'm such a nice guy, I'll do you the favor of taking it off your hands for FREE! It's a twofer! You stimulate the economy, and you get good car-ma for recycling! Then I recycle MY 7 1/4 to the starving peasants in Red China
 
Bad Sport said:
I was gonna suggest heat. Might take more than a heat gun though, propane torch maybe?
Click to expand...

I got a heat gun does 450/600. Was hoping that was enough. I'm worried a torch will roast the bearings. They are in great condition. But it's an option

skep419 said:
If there's no studs I would try and jack to one side. Try and spin it so to speak. Maybe a piece of wood against part of the webbing. Although when it comes loose you better be ready.

Or put a piece of pipe through the yoke. Sissor jack between the housing and the pipe.
Click to expand...

I was thinking something like that. A pipe and jack against the housing. But I'm worried about bending/breaking the yoke or u joint or something.

340duster340 said:
sometimes they need a good whack with a dead blow.

i have also unscrewed all the nuts and put a floor jack under the case by the numbers (below the yoke) and just jack it up till it pops free.
Click to expand...

Did both of those already. Like I mentioned I even jacked it up and bounced it and it didn't come free.

Ottmundr said:
Acetylene torch, rosebud tip. If that doesn't work, you will need to buy a new one. Since you give a hoot and don't want to pollute and since I'm such a nice guy, I'll do you the favor of taking it off your hands for FREE! It's a twofer! You stimulate the economy, and you get good car-ma for recycling! Then I recycle MY 7 1/4 to the starving peasants in Red China
Click to expand...

New one! You're a pretty funny guy!

Heat is on the list for sure. Just hoping I don't roast the bearings.
 
I've used driving wedges. Thin, fine tapered, and sharp. Get some cheapy stiff gasket scrapers like Performance Tool and cut the handles off, leave a stub to hammer with. Carefully, very carefully, drive a wedge in just a bit. Keep working around, carefully deeper, and slowly, not gouging any metal. Eventually things will work loose. Once there's an area of seperation, you're on your way but not out of the woods. The key is patience, and to work around the flange and eventually it will work loose and come apart.
 
Just as an update. I finally got it out. A combined 6 hours over a few days. I found the thinnest scraper I could at crappy tire. And after much banging (and not caring about being gentle anymore) was finally able to create a spot along the flange and drive it in. I got it driven in in several spots. Then was able to turn it sideways and hammer along the flange. I tried the other side but it would never go in. I used a thicker one and did more of the same. Working my way around the driver side half. Eventually opened it up enough to fit a pry bar in.

The amazing part? Even with no studs in. And the entire drives side pried clean off (could see inside and about 1/4 gap). It would STILL support the weight of the car on the center section itself. That's just boggling to me. Only RTV held it in place. When I finally got it apart. I pulled chunks of RTV the thickness of my pinkie out from the inside of the center section itself. Someone definitely decided to use a whole tube of the stuff.
 
glad to hear you got it apart. I used a fabo suggestion when I swapped mine out. right stuff gasket on the 3rd member side of gasket. axle grease on the housing side. so far so good.
 
Ive always kept studs in. I believe its to your advantage. (especially on floor on back)
While prying case from housing, the weight of case is supported by studs as you slowly
pry your way around a little at a time. Then with a smooth floor jack parallel to drive shaft,
Jack just to put pressure on bottom of case. Wiggle case back/forth while someone slides jack towards trans. and out she comes.
Ive done myself lots of times but not easy tryin to lower jack while balancing case.

D.
 
That's actually a mistake a lot of people make with RTV, and a lot of the reason other people hate it so much.
When they think of RTV they picture big gobs of it squeezed out everywhere making everything all nasty looking.
They used a whole tube when a 1/8 bead would have done the same job.
 
Personally I believe RTV should be BANNED from automotive work; seen similar crap on cars serviced for pay. Sparingly applied is sparingly done.
A combined 6 hours over a few days.
Click to expand...
Great!! Patience gets it in the end and no broken parts, tools, or temper.
 
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