Charging & ignition questions.

[64ragtop]

The ragtop's been running what appears to be a stock '64 engine/front lights harness, modified for electronic ignition. Due to bulkhead connector failure, I'll be replacing it and have questions.

The car now has one field terminal grounded on a later model alternator, a stock appearing voltage regulator with electronic guts, single ballast and four pin MOPAR orange box ECU. I could replicate this by cutting the harness on hand and adding the electronic ignition harness, thus losing the warranty.

Or I can get another harness already modified for electronic ignition. That wants both fields from my alternator, the 1970-up (flat pack) V.R., the dual ballast, and five pin E.C.U. connection. I suppose I'd also need a new 5 pin E.C.U. box. This method will require purchase of four parts and a bit of re-arranging my underhood real estate.

I've looked at wiring diagrams 'till my eyes glazed over and the old electronic tech in me understands how the two different ballast/E.C.U. setups work. What I don't understand is the purpose of the constant 12 volts through the five ohm resistor side of the dual ballast to pin three (green w/trace wire). Does that voltage that is applied in both "start" & "run" key positions make an improvement in the performance or durability of the system.

Any help is much appreciated, as always.

 

[67Dart273]

You really don't need to chop up the harness.

IF you are running a 69/ earlier style regulator, either it works OK or it doesn't. If your alternator is a "square back" style, there is no need to change that

If the regulator is working OK, leave it, if not, replace it with either a Standard/ Blue Streak VR-128, or a NAPA/ Echlin VR-1001 They look different but hook up the same

Now if you decide to go with the 70/ later style regulator, you can ALSO do that without chopping up the harness. Just make up the connections to your original regulator "same as" they were, IE IGN and green field wire to new regulator. Then all you have to do is ADD just one wire from the now grounded field terminal to switched ignition.

Here's the 70/ later VR diagram:

The blue and green in this diagram hook up EXACTLY as the 69/ earlier did, you simply need to adapt the VR harness pigtail connector to your old wiring. Might be smart to cut off the eyelet end of the green field and butt--splice it, but the blue can use a push on connector

Notice that the "blue" field (the one you now have grounded) is an additional wire which tees into the blue switched ignition, so you can also do that at the same time.

There is ALSO no need to hack up the harness for Mopar IF IT IS a 4 prong box, because you only need a TWO prong resistor. You can leave the original 2 pin resistor wiring right to the coil as is!!!

One wire from the ECU hooks to coil neg. where the points wire used to hook

One wire from the ECU needs to tap into switched ignition. You can tee into the regulator I terminal, or the "key" side of the ballast, either one.

Other two wires from the ECU go to the distributor pickup.

NONE of this needs to disturb your new harness

Here's the diagram for a 4 pin ECU

In this diagram, the wiring and ballast coming in from top right, and going to the coil are "existing" same as your "points" harness

Notice one "new wire" from the ECU goes to coil NEG

One more goes up and tees into the dark blue "IGN run" which you can ALSO do when you mess with the regulator wiring

The other two hook to the distributor.

See? easy!!

IN FACT, I used to carry my old dual point around for a spare back in the '70's after converting to the ECU. If when it quit, all I had to do was unplug the bad ECU, remove the distributor, and install my dual point, and hook the "points" (primary wire) up to coil NEG.

 

[64ragtop]

That last drawing is what I have (er.. HAD) I understand how it works, and like the simplicity of it. Plus the ballast and regulator are already in place and the one alternator field term is grounded. I have a new five wire E.C.U. harness, and understand the unused wire. (and have dikes and heatshrink) Putting these components (back) together would be the simplest, easiest way to get the car running. Thank you.

The challenge I now face goes back to my thread started early this morning, titled " Electrical woes continuing". I'll sleep tonight and deal with customer service at the seller and the manufacturer tomorrow