Cheapest way to get a bellhousing on a 440 Dart

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mhuppertz

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If I don't care about originality, what is the cheapest way to get my A833 mounted behind the 440 in my '69 Dart?

I could fab up a hydraulic setup like the one on my 1st Gen Dodge pretty easily if the mechanical linkage is the issue...

It's crazy what people want for an original, and the SFI stuff is way out there...

or should I just bite the bullet and save up?

The budget is tight. The engine is nearly complete, but I have a few big ticket items left like the headers and Dana 60 rear.

Thanks!

Mark
 
I picked up my scattershield for $200 on eBay. You just gotta keep your eye out for those kind of things
 
Agree. I'm not worried about current SFI but I would never run a clutch anything (except maybe a stock engine) without a scattershield. It's worth the aggravation of squeezing it in there for the peace of mind (and feet).

Actually I think this is a 727 drum explosion, but the same principles apply!
transmission%20explosion_zpsvwrapgzf.jpg
 
First of all I would run a good steel flywheel, a factory iron flywheel will go through a scatter shield.
 
Seems like it would be difficult to keep a blanket wrapped around a stock bellhousing, since it tapers so much... don't know, I'm sure someone else will chime in. Also then you don't get the block plate which may save your block from being fractured by a flying chunk. Be sure to buy a new steel flywheel - never run a 50 year old stock cast iron wheel...

I prefer the security of a 1/4" thick steel can, personally. Never heard of a Lakewood failing to contain a clutch/flywheel explosion.
 
i thought blow proof was required on any straight gear car at most drag strips?? or is it at a certen speed/ET or when ever slicks applied?? i dont keep up with rules...lol
 
Also, I fabbed a hydraulic clutch linkage rather than try and snake a Z-bar through the headers. Wilwood master, a Howe pull-type slave and a stock fork & throwout bearing.

The hydraulic TO bearings make a much neater installation but are expensive (and if/when they leak, require pulling the trans to repair)...
 
Also, I fabbed a hydraulic clutch linkage rather than try and snake a Z-bar through the headers. Wilwood master, a Howe pull-type slave and a stock fork & throwout bearing.

The hydraulic TO bearings make a much neater installation but are expensive (and if/when they leak, require pulling the trans to repair)...


Yea, those are the main reasons I would make my own external hydraulic setup. Going to run the Pro Parts, Bagshaw McCandless 2" partial fenderwells also.
 
It looked next to impossible with Hedman B-body headers, can't imagine how it'd fit with 2" tubes!

A look under the dash. Don't forget the backing plate for the master cyl. to keep the firewall from flexing and cracking. Sorry, I don't have a pic of the underside but the other end of the slave connects to a t-bracket mounted to the trans crossmember bolts.

P04-04-14_1753_zps0a9b124d.jpg
 
It looked next to impossible with Hedman B-body headers, can't imagine how it'd fit with 2" tubes!

A look under the dash. Don't forget the backing plate for the master cyl. to keep the firewall from flexing and cracking. Sorry, I don't have a pic of the underside but the other end of the slave connects to a t-bracket mounted to the trans crossmember bolts.

View attachment 1715023462

Nice! Thanks for the picture!
 
In answer to your original question. The "cheapest way". Many later big block bellhousing have two threaded holes to mount ball studs for the linkage. Possibly one bell for both B and E bodies. In 1980, I dropped a 440 into a Volare. Same setup as the A body. I had a B/E body big block bell with dual stud mounting holes and fabbed up my own bracket to mount the ball stud further forward just like the stock big block A body. Two bolts, two cut spacers and a lot of measurents. Worked great.

Big_Block_linkage.jpg
 
That is what I was looking for, THANKS!!!
I plan on running a steel flywheel so I am not too worried about my feet getting separated from my ankles...
:)
 
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