Checking for rust … common areas?

-
wintermute

wintermute

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Messages
60
Reaction score
0
Location
Mount Vernon, WA
So I've found what looks like a solid, driver condition '73 Valiant that I'm quite interested in. I've asked the seller about providing photos of the frame rails at the upper control arm mounts, rear quarters/inner fenders, floorboards and trunk floor.

She will be able to get photos of everything but the floor (carpeted), but did check under the car for rust when she bought it. Which leaves me with a couple of questions for those who know more than I…

1. What's involved in looking under the carpet at the pedals? I'd like to make a suggestion on easily checking if possible. Or maybe have a local FABO member give the car a once over?

2. Are there any other places to check for terminal rust?

The seller's daughter is currently driving the car, so it's at least got that much reliability going for it. I'd check in person, but it's almost 800 miles away.
 
You look over the entire car for rust.

But the real question is why would you go 800 miles for a 73 valiant?

Here is a nice 71 in Vancouver Washington.
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/3276891532.html

A 73 in Portland Oregon.
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3275650636.html

69 Dart in Puyallup.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/3278138006.html

72 Dart in Kent
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/3273822528.html

73 Dart in Kent
http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/3270297038.html
 
Unless you know and trust the seller VERY well, do not rely on their description of rust. Even well meaning people will lead you far astray.

I agree with 1968. Find something close and look carefully yourself. If you don't know how to look, find someone to go with you. Only rare cars are worth going long distance for. Look through restoration threads here and you'll see loads of pics of rust. The floor pans are not the biggest concern. Frame elements and quarter panels are much more important.
 
There's a '74 Valiant in Lynnwood for $1,000 on Craigslist tonite.

Glenn
 
Great points all around on checking for rust! I figured it would pretty tough to do online with a bunch of photos. I'll spend some time going through the restorations threads to get a better handle on what rusts the worst (aside from "all of it")

I'm looking at '73s out of sentiment. My dad drove one for a long time when I was a kid and I was disappointed when he sold it off. (his subsequent cars were never as cool–and still aren't)

I want to fix one up like his was; slant six, triple black (with a few improvements, like EFI, power steering, improved brakes…) It would be really cool to give it to him as a sort of retirement gift. He only bothers with AM radio, so I could leave that stock lol

I know it's not the most exciting project car around, but I think I'd have a lot of fun working on something that carries some personal importance.

Glenn,I might be able to use that as leverage on negotiating a price. Of course that could be totally rotted out underneath too. the three pics don't show a whole lot.
 
There should be plenty of 73s around. I suggest you take your time and get a good one that is free of any serious rust. Spending a grand or two more will be a GOOD investment compared to what you'd put into rust repair.
 
Idaho said:
There should be plenty of 73s around. I suggest you take your time and get a good one that is free of any serious rust. Spending a grand or two more will be a GOOD investment compared to what you'd put into rust repair.
Click to expand...

Just wait, you'll find your girl local. Unless that's your end goal, rust repair/fabrication ain't hard, nor is it expensive if you have the place to do it.

Also check inside the 'A' pillars if you can. Mine was loaded with rust. Especially if it was vinyl top.
 
Idaho said:
There should be plenty of 73s around. I suggest you take your time and get a good one that is free of any serious rust. Spending a grand or two more will be a GOOD investment compared to what you'd put into rust repair.
Click to expand...

Right on ! fixing rust takes lots of time and money
 
My car spent it's entire life in California.........still needed the lower quarters and trunk extensions replaced........
 
Idaho said:
Looks decent but you can not rule out serious rust with those pics, especially since its been painted.
Click to expand...

This is concern #1. I would hope that getting a view from underneath/behind the quarters would be of a benefit.

However, I just found this:
http://kpr.craigslist.org/cto/3286205464.html
How hard would it be to turn this into a '73? Front fenders, hood and grille? I could actually get down there and back in a (long) day if needed too. This actually has all of the trim pieces that my Dad's car had too.
 
Not hard to turn into a 73. Parts will bolt on. Add in a bumper and hood latch support. In fact I think I have all those parts. If you're set on building a 73... most consider the 72 front end to be more attractive. So you're set on a 4 door? The interior may differ some from 73 to 74 as well.

The distance is more reasonable but you must be prepared to walk away if its not as advertised and eat the loss of time and travel expense. It's easy to make an unwise compromise after driving 5 hrs with a trailer. Talk a lot to the owner and get much more specific on dings and rust. Pics never show it all. Be sure to get there in good daylight with a plan for how to look underneath.

Edit: one more thing, kinda funny I think... lotsa guys want to turn 73 up Dusters into 72 down... should not be hard to get rid of the 72 front end.

Here's an example I stumbled upon in new postings:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=206498
 
Idaho said:
Not hard to turn into a 73. Parts will bolt on. Add in a bumper and hood latch support. In fact I think I have all those parts. If you're set on building a 73... most consider the 72 front end to be more attractive. So you're set on a 4 door? The interior may differ some from 73 to 74 as well.
Click to expand...

I like the '72 front end more as well, however I'm looking to build a clone of my Dad's old car, which was a '73 more door. Trimmed out like this white '72, with a vinyl roof.

Idaho said:
The distance is more reasonable but you must be prepared to walk away if its not as advertised and eat the loss of time and travel expense. It's easy to make an unwise compromise after driving 5 hrs with a trailer. Talk a lot to the owner and get much more specific on dings and rust. Pics never show it all. Be sure to get there in good daylight with a plan for how to look underneath.
Click to expand...

3300 lb car + 2100lb trailer towed by my Ranger (5600lb rating) over Snoqualmie might be pressing my luck–especially without a trailer brake controller. A tow dolly would be more manageable from a capacity standpoint. I imagine I'd need to pull the driveshaft to make that work though.

Idaho said:
Edit: one more thing, kinda funny I think... lotsa guys want to turn 73 up Dusters into 72 down... should not be hard to get rid of the 72 front end.

Here's an example I stumbled upon in new postings:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=206498
Click to expand...

I was also thinking about that. I might be able to offset some expense, or even just do a parts trade. With any luck, differences in interior parts would be direct bolt-in between '72 and '73. I'd be doing some custom work on the dash though. (real wood for example).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top