Choosing cam for 5.9 magnum

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Haha. My boss is the #1 on the list. I bought and daily drove this dart with a slant 6 for 3 years to avoid tickets. I was one point away from losing my license and almost my job. So the slant served me well and was a "smidge" more fuel efficient compared to the 454 powered '73 camaro it replaced! My record is clean... for now.
 
Just a thought, and needs to be critiqued by engine builders, so here goes. If you are a whisker too long on pushrods, say .040 or so, could a washer be put under the stud to move stock rockers up a touch? There must be some thin washers out there that would do the job, as going too thick could be a problem. Or a guy could do what I did on my Jesel rocker bars on my BB, make shims out of brass stock from the hardware store. If the shims were made of steel, they could be oversized enough around the edges, to bend them over for locating tabs.
To keep from destroying the stock I worked on, I had to pin the brass stock between a couple of pieces of plywood so the bit wouldn't tear the stock up.
Come to think of it, since these rockers are paired, it would be easy to pull a pair and see how things are holding up.
I put brass shims under my Jesel rocker bars on my BB race motor, huge roller springs, 7500 rpm, 200 passes no problems.
 
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Pistons were free. This is the first performance AKA non OE rebuild I've done. So it's a learning curve. I don't have any pinging problems yet. Just taking it easy. Plus, traction is horrible as-is. So more timing and power is almost pointless.

Depends on your underhood temps... when I backed the timing down on my 10.5:1 360 Mag because it was pinging I found the underhood temps got noticeably higher, which was bad because the uncoated headers already made it hot as hell in there. Kind of beats on your exhaust valves a bit too over time because of the extra heat. BTW I was running 32* total with a much smaller cam than yours, you could probably use that much without issue in yours since the cam has more overlap to bleed off low-RPM cylinder pressure.
 
Just a thought, and needs to be critiqued by engine builders, so here goes. If you are a whisker too long on pushrods, say .040 or so, could a washer be put under the stud to move stock rockers up a touch? There must be some thin washers out there that would do the job, as going too thick could be a problem. Or a guy could do what I did on my Jesel rocker bars on my BB, make shims out of brass stock from the hardware store. If the shims were made of steel, they could be oversized enough around the edges, to bend them over for locating tabs.
To keep from destroying the stock I worked on, I had to pin the brass stock between a couple of pieces of plywood so the bit wouldn't tear the stock up.
Come to think of it, since these rockers are paired, it would be easy to pull a pair and see how things are holding up.
I put brass shims under my Jesel rocker bars on my BB race motor, huge roller springs, 7500 rpm, 200 passes no problems.
You can buy shims from Ford motorsports to shim the pedestal up as needed, it's a cheap kit with various sizes. A sbf rocker appears identical to a magnum rocker.
 
I swapped the 625 out for a 750 street demon carb two weeks ago. Haven't had a chance to do any carb tuning and it needs it. Runs ok but it's not very crisp off idle and it smells pretty rich. Local tuner was having a dyno day so I took it up there and made 304 hp and a best pull of 345 ft/lbs! That's with 91 octane pump gas and 34° all in. It was 101° air temp also. I took it up to 36° and it picked up 1 horsepower but lost torque, possibly due to heat soak. I'm happy with the numbers (for now) and hopefully I can pick up a bit more with the carb dialed in.
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Nice! I'll be happy if mine puts down similar numbers. The 750s are jetted pretty rich OOTB, even accounting for elevation I had to jet mine way down. The metering rods are handy too Holley makes a pretty wide selection for those carbs.
 
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