I've mulled over the idea of fabbing an air intake that I'd run through the factory battery location and draw air from the front bumper area. I've seen some guys run the intakes with dryer-like hose. Has anyone had personal experience with the performance benefits to such a thing? When it's hot and I'm going from the return road back to the staging lanes in the late rounds I think this would help keep the car consistent compared to drawing hot under hood air. I like my cowl hood, but honestly I doubt it does much for air intake. From a few guys I've talked to it really leans the car out at the top end if your forcing the air in more at higher speeds. How could you tune for this to keep the from being too rich at the slow end of the track?
Cold air intake?
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1970Duster
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It's the same setup used on the w series Oldsmobile. It helps a little but you'd be better off with a smooth tube going from air filter to intake (silicon hose attached for flex). The less turbulence the better.
Well since you mentioned the hood, lol, I think for racing you would be better of to put an appropriate scoop on and seal the carb from the engine bay completely only drawing fresh cooler air from outside.
I had considered fabbing a cold air intake on my street (soon to be street/strip) car, but I got to thinking about the tubes, they would still get warm from the engine bay temps and still draw warmer air as opposed to outside air.
I could be way off base here, and I'm just thinking out loud, but I think the cold air intake would be pretty functional at more constant speed.
I'd be interested in other assessments on the subject.
I had considered fabbing a cold air intake on my street (soon to be street/strip) car, but I got to thinking about the tubes, they would still get warm from the engine bay temps and still draw warmer air as opposed to outside air.
I could be way off base here, and I'm just thinking out loud, but I think the cold air intake would be pretty functional at more constant speed.
I'd be interested in other assessments on the subject.
68dodge
Well-Known Member
I like the hood scoop sealed to the carb. Works good for me.
I should've been more specific. I want to fab an intake with 4" exhaust tubing and mandrel bends with rubber couplers that will go from the carb through the inner fender under the battery mounting spot (only open spot) to the front bumper area. I can then wrap it with insulation to keep it cool sending colder outside air directly to the carb through smooth tubing with gradual bends.
I knew what you meant. I guess if you insulate them so as to keep them cooler it may help. Like I said, I mulled it over too and decided it was more than I wanted to do, not to mention when you want to do something on the engine, it would probably have to come apart. I guess if you built it so it would separate quickly it wouldn't be too bad.
They do sell complete systems like you are talking about.
As far as performance gains, I don't know if it would be drastically different than a hood scoop.
They do sell complete systems like you are talking about.
As far as performance gains, I don't know if it would be drastically different than a hood scoop.
This cost a whole $10 at the pick a part. The air cleaner was from a late 70's Chrysler and the tube was from a Omni. This six picked up 4 tenths with just this one change. Cut a hole in the rad support where the battery box was and ran the tube to the grille. Fresh air is a good thing.
Wow, that's pretty good.
EL5DEMON340
Well-Known Member
It's best to have a good aircleaner on it, a lot of the flow comes from a good base like the k&n or moroso. There is a company that makes a nice filter with one or two 4"
Inlets I think it's ramair??
60jerry
Well-Known Member
I used the fresh air that is available from the plenum area in front of the windshield. There is a high pressure area there that makes it easy for the engine to take in the cool air. My slant won't win many races, but I wanted cool air all the time for more oxygen that can help fuel economy. Should also work for racing I'd think. Just remove the plastic plugs and fab a pair of nipples for the hose size you wish to use. I used two-inch hose with two inlets. The only trouble is the hood torque rods get in the way making it a challenge. One could just cut new holes in the cowl in a different position for larger air hose nipples which may be better for a V-8. Or, one could just remove the torque rods. It's a race car anyhow.
Jerry
Jerry
60jerry
Well-Known Member
Trying to attach a pic.
Lonewolf3165
Living the Dream!
Forcing the air in doesn't cause it to go lean. More air moving through the carburetor will draw more gasoline along with it. What is happening is the cooler air drawn in through a scoop is more dense than the warmer underhood air. That's why we want it. More oxygen. Because denser air can support more fuel & thus make more power. The carb however, must be jetted/ calibrated to match the added density of the cooler air & higher oxygen levels. That's where it can go leaner. You can think of it like a barometric pressure change inside the scoop. If the weather changes at the track you have to make jet changes(think altitude correction) to keep it in tune.
You'd be suprised how well your cowl hood works if it's fitted right to take advantage of the high pressure area at th base of the windshield. Even on the return road. But I wouldn't worry about what it's drawing in for air in the staging lanes or return road. You're not racing there. That air is lonnngg gone when you get the car going down track. If you want to keep it cooler for consistancy's sake cool the radiator, intake manifold & fuel line between rounds. Put an electric water pump on it & circulate the water while the engine is off.
I have that 5" cowl and a 14x6 AEM filter on the carb. If you think that's drawing enough air to suffice then I can leave it alone. This is why wanted to ask if there has been experiences with running intake tubes to outside air sources to see of it's worth time and money. I run an electric pump and fan already, that's a must for serious bracket racing when the car may only have a few minutes to cool between runs. I am also planning the switch to e85 as soon as I get fuel, so the car should run very cool afterwards.
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