Constant screeching noise from the rear end comes and goes

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okan74duster

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Hello all. I understand its hard to troubleshoot this online but I want to know what maybe causing this issue. It seems to be coming from the rear end.

It sounds a little bit like its the drum brakes when its worn out, but to me it sounds like the tires are spinning, but I cannot be sure.

It comes and goes really, or maybe when I drive the wind blocks it. It even makes noise when I let off the gas and just cruise but the tires are still going. No noise when I am going in reverse.

Here is the video of it; VEED - screech 74 duster

Any ideas? Thank you in advanced!
 
Wow, that's intense, my initial thought would be wheel scuff, big time.
Have you hit a curb or similar recently.
Check where the front and rear tires are pointed/aimed, do they seem similar.
I would suspect one front? tire to be aimed wrong, or fr suspension issue, jmo.
Check the tire tread for indications of "scuffing" if this has been going on for any length of time/distance.
 
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inertia said:
Wow, that's intense, my initial thought would be wheel scuff, big time.
Have you hit a curb or similar recently.
Check where the front and rear tires are pointed, do they seem similar.
I would suspect one front? tire to be aimed wrong, jmo.
Click to expand...
I did not hit a curb. And the tires seem to be pointed similar. Although, I recently did attempt to do a ghetto alignment and noticed my outer tie rod on the passenger side is messed up and I am about 5 degrees uneven.

Ordered the C-body proforged aluminum billet tie rod sleeve, and c-body tie rod ends (hope they fit) so I can actually do the proper alignment, the tie rod ends and sleeve PST cannot be adjusted (they sent me three inner tie rods) could an improper alignment cause this?
 
From the front of the car, kneel down,
Eyeball the drivers wheel, adjust the steering wheel till it's straight in line with the side of the car, go eyeball where the pass side wheel is pointing .
 
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inertia said:
No, the noise is coming from the front wheels fighting each other, from being toed-in, or toe- out.
They need an alignment to "aim" them both in the "same direction"
Click to expand...
OK! Gotcha!

Are we still doing these alignment specs btw?

"Camber - 1/2 degree positive
Caster - Manual steering 1/2 degree negative
Power steering 3/4 degree positive
Toe-In 1/8"
Ride Height 1 5/8" Difference between measured points (bottom of lower ball joint & torsion bar adjusting blade)."

Found these on an old thread.
 
That's the 60's factory setting for bias ply tires, new radial specs, I'm trying to finding the scosh chart, but someone will likely tree me, lol .
 
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inertia said:
That's the factory setting for bias ply tires, new radial specs, I'm findinding the scosh chart, but someone will likely tree me, lol
Click to expand...
Found the stickied chart!

On the base we have the John Bean "Visualiner" I will just point it to my car, do some conversions to metric and then input these.

Specs for alignment.jpg
 
It depends what you are trying to achieve.
There isn't a history, I know of, in street application, with stock tie rods problems period..
RockAuto has mosta the stuff to replace what you need .
 
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It depends what you are trying to achieve.
There isn't a history of problems with stock ones, I know of, in street application.
RockAuto has mosta the stuff to replace what you need.
You haven't posted a year, or I woulda given you a correct link.
This should get you close, try to get everything from one warehouse to save shipping.

1970 PLYMOUTH DUSTER 3.7L 225cid L6 Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve | Shop Now at RockAuto

Steering Parts and More for Your 1970 PLYMOUTH DUSTER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.
www.rockauto.com
 
inertia said:
It depends what you are trying to achieve.
There isn't a history of problems with stock ones, I know of, in street application.
RockAuto has mosta the stuff to replace what you need.
You haven't posted a year, or I woulda given you a correct link.
This should get you close, try to get everything from one warehouse to save shipping.
[/URL]
Click to expand...

My bad, I have a 1974 Duster, 318.

I would order something else but being stationed here in Germany I have to order locally and eat the VAT most of the time. Also I use the garage on base so I have to pick the quickest option.

Part of me wants the 11/16 C-body sleeves so it feels stronger/stiffer, but worried about the fit.

I wouldve went with QA1 if I didnt have to fight for a spot to work on it and so my car dont look like this. Its also because I didnt tighten the sleeves down so it got worse, d'oh! :BangHead:

alignment.jpg
 
I'm trying to direct you to a place you are most likely to get the correct parts, because of your location.
The parts you seek have no wearing parts, and generally seldom require replacement, and if they do, to avoid mistake, I urge you to replace then with known/most likely to fitting the ends, left and right thread, proper pitch.
To my eye, the wheel apear to be toed out, from that angle.
Also, I believe that site offers the dimensions of most things, so you can compare size, pitch, etc of the items you feel may fit.
This page, be patient, it takes a while to load also may help.


Cheers .
PS .. what is wrong with the sleeves you have ?
I'm thinking that's the very first question I shoulda asked, lol
 
inertia said:
I'm trying to direct you to a place you are most likely to get the correct parts, because of your location.
The parts you seek have no wearing parts, and generally seldom require replacement, and if they do, to avoid mistake, I urge you to replace then with known/most likely to fitting the ends, left and right thread, proper pitch.
To my eye, the wheel apear to be toed out, from that angle.
Also, I believe that site offers the dimensions of most things, so you can compare size, pitch, etc of the items you feel may fit.
This page, be patient, it takes a while to load also may help.

[/URL][/URL]

Cheers .
PS .. what is wrong with the sleeves you have ?
I'm thinking that's the very first question I shoulda asked, lol
Click to expand...

Moparshop seems to be only place. I ordered the shorter A body version too, but its 9/16. Just in case the C-body 11/16 ones dont fit. I can always return it.

Its really the outer tie rods (PST sent me three inner tie rods...). The threads are going the same way so we can twist all we want and it wont move. I decided to just replace the whole thing and read that C-body sleeves are the move before solid tie rods became a thing, but I do want the 11/16 threads.

The C-Body tie rod sleeve is like 8.5" + jam nut. The sleeve I have right now is 8" so it *should* fit, and still adjust without needing extended arms. Also summit racing lists my car as compatible with the matching tie rod ends.

I have access to US stores, but it will take a while before getting here.
 
I use the RockAuto catalog to find and compare prices from here in Canada, and other retailers.
I twist my parts store guy to match, he does what he can, and sometimes time is a factor.
Shipping Returns to U.S. doesn't happen .
You're going to be a real hotrodder when this is over.
Good job
 
To whoever stumbles upon this thread: yes the C body tie rod sleeves (the proforged alum billet ones) and ends work for the A body. But its tight and barely has room to adjust, especially the passenger side.

Maybe I should get different UCA. I dont know if I am seeing things but it seems that my passenger front wheel is oh so slightly (a touch) pointing towards the middle. Weird because it drives straight even when I let go of the wheel.

Screeching is gone and she rides like a dream!
 
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