Converter stall speed recommendations

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MOPARJ

MOPARJ

What can I upgrade now?
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What stall speed would you all recommend for a warm 318 Duster, used for street driving only, with 3.91 gears. I would like to keep it as economical as possible with the gears (it's all relative of course). 2200 rpm range and a 10" converter? There will be some freeway driving at speeds no higher than 65 mph. Tires are 255/60/15s.
 
My recommendation, call a good converter builder, PTC, Dynamic etc, give them ALL of the cars specs and intended usage (MUST be totally honest with them and yourself) and have them build you one specific to your needs.

Spend the money once!
 
Exactly. ^^^^^^^ You should be prepared to spend around 600 dollars give or take. Much less and you don't have a good converter.
 
You have 3.91 gears and you want to keep it economical? BTW: when describing what you want for a converter saying it's a "warm 318 duster" means absolutely nothing. You need specs and lots of them. A converter is probably the most important part of the drivetrain and you can't just guess what "warm 318" means. Get on a converter manufacturers website and download their converter spec form and fill in all the lines. If you don't you could end up with a converter that it completely wrong for your combination
 
Without cam specs and compression ratio, carb and intake, you are wasting your time and money trying to guess. The most important part of TC selection is cam. Thats why when you get a larger cam you need a higher stall converter. Cams start making torque based on duration, lift and LSA. If your converter stalls at 2000, and your 318 with "warm" 278 dur 488 lift doesnt start to make good torque until say 2800 for EXAMPLE, then the engine would bog badly when you tried to launch/accelerate hard. If your "warm" 318 has a 268 445 lift cam and you use a 3500 stall converter, it will narrow your power band to 3500-4500 because your 268 cam has a power band of EXAMPLE 1500-4500. Any power/torque below stall will be wasted as the converter will just eat power. If your "warm" 318 has a 268 cam and a small cabr like 600, then a 2000-2200 stall would be just great as your engine would only be 1000 rpm into best operating range and starting to make some good torque right at "lock up"(term not referencing an actual lock up converter of later years, but actually the point when converter starts to engage trans.

A TC is basically a hydraulically activated clutch that never fully engages, ie for example they slip around 20% so only 80% of engine speed in transferred into trans .

Legal disclaimer: numbers are for example and rough guess as I didnt look up cam torque specs, just off top of head.
 
8.5:1 compression, Comp XE268 cam 477/480 lift on 110 lobe separation. Hooker headers. Stock small valve heads, Edelbrock intake with 625 cfm Street Demon carb.
 
And like I was saying, economical was a relative term. I certainly know that true economy is not to be expected with 3.91 gears. Only want to optimize a strictly street combo.
 
This will give you an idea of what you need for info. There may also be more questions they need to ask of you.

http://www.ptcrace.com/spec-sheet/

Your intended usage is also very important. Street, street/occasional strip.


Spend the money once, do it correctly. If you go off the shelf you may not be very happy, or you may not get the full potential of the cars capabilities.

Like Tracy said, this IS probably the most crucial part of the drive train for performance or lack thereof.
 
MOPARJ said:
8.5:1 compression, Comp XE268 cam 477/480 lift on 110 lobe separation. Hooker headers. Stock small valve heads, Edelbrock intake with 625 cfm Street Demon carb.
Click to expand...

Was the 8.5 to 1 actually measured or what the book says? What Edelbrock intake? Performer, RP, Victor, Super victor? All make a big difference. How much does the car weigh with you in it (not what it says on the door tag, you have to actually have it weighed). What size are the rear tires?
 
fishy68 said:
Was the 8.5 to 1 actually measured or what the book says? What Edelbrock intake? Performer, RP, Victor, Super victor? All make a big difference. How much does the car weigh with you in it (not what it says on the door tag, you have to actually have it weighed). What size are the rear tires?
Click to expand...

8.5:1 pistons, but still down in hole, so closer to 8.0:1 is more accurate. Edelbrock Performer intake. 3200 lbs with me in it on scales the one time I had it at the strip. 255/60/15 rear tires.
 
Bad Sport said:
This will give you an idea of what you need for info. There may also be more questions they need to ask of you.

http://www.ptcrace.com/spec-sheet/

Your intended usage is also very important. Street, street/occasional strip.


Spend the money once, do it correctly. If you go off the shelf you may not be very happy, or you may not get the full potential of the cars capabilities.

Like Tracy said, this IS probably the most crucial part of the drive train for performance or lack thereof.
Click to expand...
X2 with getting YOUR SPECS to a converter builder. Don't bs them on the specs either, or no matter whose converter you get, it'll likely be wrong. Seen it too many times where the wrong information was supplied and then had to put up with po'd customer. Your cam maker also has probably made a suggestion as to the stall that will best with YOUR SETUP. Trying to guess what stall is needed for you is a crapshoot at best.
 
LOTS more to it than "just" stall speed.
 
Get something that flashes hard and is tight on cruise. Most converter guys will know what that means.

There are plenty of cars I know of that have converters that flash to 3800 range and run LOWER rpm at highway speeds than the 3500 or less rpm converter they replaced. It's the best of both worlds.

Converters is the one place most car people make the biggest mistake. Spend 5K plus on a new engine and put a $250 shelf converter behind it, wonder why it doesn't run well. DUH!!! :)
 
They "converter" builders will put you in a 3000 ish converter I would guess. Will make it fun to drive with 3.91's whatcha got for rear tires ha-ha...
 
I'm hoping to find that out soon
I ordered one from PTC a few weeks ago but it wont get installed until after I get the 727 rebuild
 
Try continetal converters. They are in L.A. I always prefer to buy locally.
 
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